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What happens when a 1911 guy is offered a brand new Glock 19 for a steal?


kesava

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What any other red blooded American would do, I "borrowed" from my Christmas fund and bought it. My wife doesn't "need" that spa package. I needed this Glock. I know i have the Kimber, Rock Island, American Classic, Hi Point and Springfield, but this Glock filled a very crucial hole in my line up.

So, the Glock was new (don't ask about the price, suffice to say - it was an offer that I could NOT pass up).

52563176605255705911_db5443c032.jpg

photo[1] by kesavadevahari, on Flickr

I promptly went to the new G&L in hendersonville (God help me, its too close)

Fired off 6 boxes of mixed ammo, - 2 boxes of each -tulla -wolf -Monarch.

Of course, the Glock treated the ammo like a fat kid treats cake.

Trigger was a little more stout than my 1911's, but, I hear that I can get a lighter trigger.

The recoil was supple, the accuracy was great. I know the pistol is way more accurate than I am with that weapon.

Now, I love my 1911's for accuracy, recoil management, trigger, and bullet size.

I have now fallen in love with the Glock for the simplicity, ruggedness, reliability, customizations available and capacity.

Both are GREAT platforms. Both are VERY accurate and unrelievedly reliable. I didn't expect to like the Glock as much as I did. One question, Can someone direct me to the cookies? I heard that there are cookies...

Two mags, as fast as I could shoot, 7 yards.

5256317660_9d00b7e706.jpg

photo by kesavadevahari, on Flickr

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Edited by kesava
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Welcome to the dark side.

100rds at as far back as it goes (10 yards +?) today at Gn'L Hendersonville with a G17 after my whopping $20 investment in a connector and springs and maybe 20 minutes of polishing in the right spots... it's too bad Glocks aren't real accurate :D...

fed805ea.jpg

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Brand new? Looks like a Gen 2, no light rail or finger grooves. Slide stop looks like it has some wear on it too.

It's the photo. There is no slide wear. The barrel rifling had no wear on it. The gun was literally in immaculate condition. I bought from an FFL buddy who ordered some surplus in. Not sure how he wound up with a new Gen 2, but I don't care too much. If it is used, there was absolutely no sign what so ever of it ever being fired, carried or used.

Edited by kesava
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Welcome to the dark side.

100rds at as far back as it goes (10 yards +?) today at Gn'L Hendersonville with a G17 after my whopping $20 investment in a connector and springs and maybe 20 minutes of polishing in the right spots... it's too bad Glocks aren't real accurate :D...

fed805ea.jpg

Excellent shooting, How did you do your trigger job? You can just point me towards a video or website -

I saw some guy with some fine sandpaper on youtube. I am wary about it.

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Hey, I think I get a pass on my second time in 10 years shooting a glock. Pretty funny still. Maybe I will get better with time.

Looks good, with most people it'd be 6" low and 6" left. The Glock takes some time that is for sure, when I shoot a CZ or a 1911 I almost start thinking this s**t isn't that hard...:D

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How did you do your trigger job? You can just point me towards a video or website -

I saw some guy with some fine sandpaper on youtube. I am wary about it.

I'd say it's 3 things: first one's easy, get a Lone Wolf or whatever 3.5 connector... next 2 require a little patience and maybe some luck... I bend the tab that the trigger-spring connects to outward, more towards but not exactly to a 90 degree angle (gets rid of a lot of the take-up, a 3.5 connector means a longer pull and will add even more take-up than usual, so this can equalize, if not negate any of that when done right, you'll need a needle-nose and another set of pliers to support it and bend it), third thing is the hardest - reprofiling the trigger-bar "nose" so it's less rounded and more of a slant after it's engagement (you'll need a file for this), shortens reset length more than anything (which gets longer with a 3.5 connector), but lightens things up some too. The main thing is in no time you'll be detail stripping the sucker in less than a minute no problem, that's really the key... make change, put it together to test, tear it down to adjust, repeat, etc.

None of this stuff is my idea: Google "modify Glock trigger bar nose" and "bend glock trigger bar tab", seems some of the best info I've found comes from "JoeD" on the Enos forum - if you're weary spend $15 bucks on spare trigger-bar to keep one stock so you can play around with one, it's worth the effort, JMG would've dug Glocks IMHO.

Lastly though, it just takes some time and effort to figure out the Glock's trigger. I feel like I know most of the tricks to the trigger-jobs now but I still find myself going back to a stock trigger-bar and connector every 6 months or so because that actually may be the "crispest" set-up, after some polishing their stock triggers aren't that bad they're just "their own thing", it's all about prepping the trigger on the first shot and then only letting it out to the reset point thereafter... unlike heavier hammer-fired guns the Glock will do you no favors or cover up any hitches in one's technique, between the trigger and the gun's overall lightness it can be downright brutal to a shooter with poor support-hand strength or a poor grip technique IMO. Maybe the single thing that's helped me shoot Glocks better has nothing to do with the gun: using a Captains of Crush grip strengthener has increased my support-hand grip-strength to where even when relaxed I'm gripping twice as solidly as most so my gun isn't torqing or shifting when I'm pulling that "weird" trigger, seems something as simple as being able to hold the gun straight is a big deal when it comes to repeatable accuracy. YMMV.

Edited by CK1
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I'd say it's 3 things: first one's easy, get a Lone Wolf or whatever 3.5 connector... next 2 require a little patience and maybe some luck... I bend the tab that the trigger-spring connects to outward, more towards but not exactly to a 90 degree angle (gets rid of a lot of the take-up, a 3.5 connector means a longer pull and will add even more take-up than usual, so this can equalize, if not negate any of that when done right, you'll need a needle-nose and another set of pliers to support it and bend it), third thing is the hardest - reprofiling the trigger-bar "nose" so it's less rounded and more of a slant after it's engagement (you'll need a file for this), shortens reset length more than anything (which gets longer with a 3.5 connector), but lightens things up some too. The main thing is in no time you'll be detail stripping the sucker in less than a minute no problem, that's really the key... make change, put it together to test, tear it down to adjust, repeat, etc.

None of this stuff is my idea: Google "modify Glock trigger bar nose" and "bend glock trigger bar tab", seems some of the best info I've found comes from "JoeD" on the Enos forum - if you're weary spend $15 bucks on spare trigger-bar to keep one stock so you can play around with one, it's worth the effort, JMG would've dug Glocks IMHO.

YMMV.

If this weapon is in anyway going to be used for self defense do not do this. It seems obvious, but wanted to be clear. I have several Glocks with factory triggers that I really enjoy shooting. I'm plenty comfortable and accurate wih them. I say try to get used to the trigger and give it some time before modding. You can drop in a factory 3.5 connector pretty easily. Being a 1911 guy you might be looking for a project, but plenty of guys, even Dave Sevigny shoot with the factory trigger.

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If this weapon is in anyway going to be used for self defense do not do this. It seems obvious, but wanted to be clear. I have several Glocks with factory triggers that I really enjoy shooting. I'm plenty comfortable and accurate wih them. I say try to get used to the trigger and give it some time before modding. You can drop in a factory 3.5 connector pretty easily. Being a 1911 guy you might be looking for a project, but plenty of guys, even Dave Sevigny shoot with the factory trigger.

I'd say to each his own, what's a rule for you may not be a rule for others, if I draw my piece I plan on hitting what I'm aiming at and I'll work out the rest with my lawyer in court later, I've heard and read many of the arguments out there that say carrying anything but a stock gun with a heavier trigger means certain crucifixition in court, doesn't hold water, my ammo receipts alone could build the same case against me, it 's very much a matter of what one is comfortable with, IMO carrying what works and will not fail is what's important.

BTW, Sevigny shoots his Glocks with a 3.5 connector, reduced power striker spring, and polish job, sometimes a heavier trigger spring too.

Not trying to argue, inevitably whenever discussing working on triggers someone always comes along in the role of the soothsayer proclaiming "keep it stock or else!" and even while I may not completely agree I respect other's point of view, let's not get caught up in the muck if we can.

Edited by CK1
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Guest Guy N. Cognito

Great buy.

If you're used to 1911s, the trigger take a bit of getting used to. My advice is try to master the stock trigger before spending too much time and money trying to get it lighter. With a little practice, you'll find that it's pretty easy to keep off hand shots in the 10 ring even out to 25 yards.

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CK1 its less about courts...more about real world reliability.....if its to be used for self defense most people seem to be of the thinking that the factory setup is tougher and less likely to break....aftermarket connectors in particular have a bad rap for failing(keep in mind all of this is based on net info and not any experience on my part so ymmv)

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You can go to glock parts and get a glock factory connector for 19 bucks. They get em imported somehow. My 19 runs great with the 3.5 and its pretty dawng gone accurate after you get use to it. AL

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