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radiator leak help


laktrash

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I have a leak in the radiator of a GMC yukon, can't pin point but seems to be some where behind the fan shroud. I plan on trying some alumaseal stop leak. My question is the dirctions say to turn on the heat before starting the process, but if the leak's not in the heater core is it necessary to do this. I'm really not big on trying this but it's an older car and trying to spend $5 to save $500. I just don't see the need to run this crap thru the heater core if I don't need to.

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If it's a small leak, I'd suggest you try putting a can of black pepper in the radiator before trying the stop leak. If you use the stop leak, I would suggest you follow the directions on it. It's going to get in your heater core anyway the first time you do turn on the heater.

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Do not use stop leak or pepper!

It will sometimes stop or slow a pin-hole leak.... but it will also clog-up your radiator tubes and heater core.

The price to have a new heater core installed, have your radiator "rodded" and system flushed when your engine starts overheating will be more expensive then just buying a brand new radiator now.

My suggestion is to remove the radiator yourself, take it in to a radiator shop and have them repair it. A radiator shop can easily solder an aluminum core or replace the plastic tanks.

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Do not use stop leak or pepper!

It will sometimes stop or slow a pin-hole leak.... but it will also clog-up your radiator tubes and heater core.

The price to have a new heater core installed, have your radiator "rodded" and system flushed when your engine starts overheating will be more expensive then just buying a brand new radiator now.

My suggestion is to remove the radiator yourself, take it in to a radiator shop and have them repair it. A radiator shop can easily solder an aluminum core or replace the plastic tanks.

This :rolleyes:

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Do not use stop leak or pepper!

It will sometimes stop or slow a pin-hole leak.... but it will also clog-up your radiator tubes and heater core.

The price to have a new heater core installed, have your radiator "rodded" and system flushed when your engine starts overheating will be more expensive then just buying a brand new radiator now.

My suggestion is to remove the radiator yourself, take it in to a radiator shop and have them repair it. A radiator shop can easily solder an aluminum core or replace the plastic tanks.

This is very good advice.

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Well I realize what your saying about nostop leak but its got 160,000 miles on it and its kinda of a back vehicle it wifes old car that she had before she got a murano. Not playing the "poor me" card but my health doesn't allow me to do any mechanicing on my own. My step son borrowed it and when i got it back it had the leak and has just been sitting and was looking for cheap patch. I worry about moving around for fear the dogs might get into leaking anti freeze.

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Stop Leak or pepper is meant more for an emergency only type fix. Meaning is you develop a leak and need to get to a safe location or to get back home. These products may offer enough of a fix for that to happen. I would not use it in place of properly fixing the radiator.

If It was me I would put some black pepper in there and see what it does. But you will need a proper repair.

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This is very good advice.

Didn't mean to poop on your elephant.

The problem with stop leak (and the ole' pepper fix) is that it was designed to work with radiators of years past.

Modine pretty much reinvented radiator technology some years back and now every car uses their design. Radiators of, say 20 years ago, are much different then today. Today the tubes are pretty much just barely wide enough to allow water to flow. Adding anything else into the system will clog them quicker then this fat boy can eat a Hershey bar.

Course, stop leak can work for an emergency situation, but I still wouldn't recommend it as you're looking at a mess to clean up later =$$$. I'd just as rather drive with a leak.

If stop leak does have to be used, then drain every drop of coolant from the radiator, then add the stop leak to the drained coolant, mix well, then slowly refill the radiator with the engine running. This will help keep the stop leak from lumping up in the system. Same idea as sifting your flour before baking a cake.

Well I realize what your saying about nostop leak but its got 160,000 miles on it and its kinda of a back vehicle it wifes old car that she had before she got a murano. Not playing the "poor me" card but my health doesn't allow me to do any mechanicing on my own. My step son borrowed it and when i got it back it had the leak and has just been sitting and was looking for cheap patch. I worry about moving around for fear the dogs might get into leaking anti freeze.

Even letting a radiator shop do the removal and install, you're still looking at a cheap fix. Good thing about GMs is the radiator comes out in 5 minutes.

If push comes to shove, just drain the coolant and refill with pure water. Only problem with water only is your water pump will suffer without the lubricant that's added to coolant.

Edited by strickj
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I would call around on a new or used radiator, your going to have to drain it either way , it only takes a few minutes of minor work to swap the radiators in a yukon. The whole swap should take less than 30 min. Plus even with the used they will have some kind of warranty.

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Didn't mean to poop on your elephant.

The problem with stop leak (and the ole' pepper fix) is that it was designed to work with radiators of years past.

Modine pretty much reinvented radiator technology some years back and now every car uses their design. Radiators of, say 20 years ago, are much different then today. Today the tubes are pretty much just barely wide enough to allow water to flow. Adding anything else into the system will clog them quicker then this fat boy can eat a Hershey bar.

Course, stop leak can work for an emergency situation, but I still wouldn't recommend it as you're looking at a mess to clean up later =$$$. I'd just as rather drive with a leak.

If stop leak does have to be used, then drain every drop of coolant from the radiator, then add the stop leak to the drained coolant, mix well, then slowly refill the radiator with the engine running. This will help keep the stop leak from lumping up in the system. Same idea as sifting your flour before baking a cake.

Even letting a radiator shop do the removal and install, you're still looking at a cheap fix. Good thing about GMs is the radiator comes out in 5 minutes.

If push comes to shove, just drain the coolant and refill with pure water. Only problem with water only is your water pump will suffer without the lubricant that's added to coolant.

You are exactly right, I was just answering his question about a "cheap fix" to try. I'd pull it and have it repaired were it mine.

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Stay away from stop leak type products. Fix it right the first time! Those spring loaded clamps lose the strength after a while. try and find USA made screw type hose clamps. could be a split or pin hole in a hose as well. also the drain petcocks sometimes get a leak when the O-ring breaks or deteriorates.

Many GM V shaped motors blow intake manifold gaskets. make sure you're not losing coolant there.

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