RED333

I am gona say 18 is the magic number.

Just 2 words, DUMB A$$ Lasers are not to play with in that way, getting the dog or cat to chase is OK

I said thread file, not triangle file as the angle will be wrong. http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/728512/general-tools-thread-repair-file-for-metric-075-10-125-15-175-20-25-30mm-threads?srccode=cii_17588969&cpncode=34-253464573-2&ads=&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-pf_ci_google-_-pf_ci_google-_-pf_ci_google

:cool: never on the first date :rofl:

Well we are Brothers in Arms, yes?

Worked for me just now, signed.

125 yards is the farthest I can shoot at the house, so 100 yards is the range. Yes, bench and rest, will be a bit before I try, need a chronograph to clock the rounds for FPS.

As I had no idea what you are looking for I had to google it. Learned me something today, thanks. No I do not have one, and no way to hold your barrel and not mark it up but good. Now if you want to try some wood and leather I might be able to help. Good luck

The Russian AK rifles are threaded left hand for the brake, 14 TPS I think. I have a few thread files, one is metric, will work for left and right hand. The file will clean up and cut threads with some work. Picked up the set from e-gay.

Chase? Do you have to use a die? Would a wire brush work to "clean" the threads? OH, OH PICS!!!

So sorry for your loss, prays on the way.

My goal is to shoot a boolit I cast, powder coat, and load to over 2500 FPS and hold a 1 inch group. With jacketed it is doable, however with cast it is a long road. Cast boolits come apart when twisted to fast, some tend to "slip" past the lands of rifling. Some go way out of balance, this the "want" to do things right.

Yep, no power needed, and we have 9 dogs, from 3 yappers (inside) all the way up to 2 (1 in and 1 outside)that come in at over 70 pounds. We know when someone comes up the drive, much less into the house.

A fish rots from the head down, this guy is about at the bung hole level in the fish.

Sounds like you made a good move, I will bet my last dollar you wont leave with that list and what not.

I had a few cases that I could not get right, so I think I have cases that are not the same thickness all the way around. I needed way to check this, being a cheap SOB, I made me one. Took the mandrel from a 7mm Lee case length cutter, drilled and taped the base block and now have a case neck thickness checker. [URL=http://s896.photobucket.com/user/redintn/media/Runout%20gauge/DSCF1258_zps270b5a8c.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s896.photobucket.com/user/redintn/media/Runout%20gauge/DSCF1259_zpsf868e391.jpg.html][/URL] Now to check all the cases again to check for proper neck thickness.

It as to to do with the barrel whip, as a bullet or boolit travels down the barrel it will bulge, harmonics are diff for each diff round. Just works your loads and remember where they hit. 

Best bet is to make what you want, ya gona have to keep the grain straight for the best staff.

Was in on a build years ago using the same fuel, we used wood bung plugs, till we put a hole in the side of the shop, it was heavy sheet metal. Boss was a bit pissed till he saw how we did it.

As a person that lives in the 3rd most free state in the Union, they can bite me!

Ran 50 unloaded cases in the RCBS die, all less than .001 run-out with out the expander ball. Reran a few with the expander ball and the .004 to .007 run-out came back, so ran them in the sizer die to fix them again. Now I have a Lyman 7mm M die expander that kept the run-out below .001, however I did find 7 cases that has run-out after the M die, ran the 7 with the Sizer die back out a bout 1 turn, case are straight again, back into the M die expander, run-out came back. These 7 cases are now culled for brass thickness not being the same around the neck. This rabbit hole is very deep, gona be a long road to HV.

In checking my cases I did find that my Lee die is making the case necks run out. Ran a few in a RCBS die and fixed them. Lee close to .003 to .005 out. RCBS less that .002, most less than .001 out. I did rotate the cases 180* and ran them twice. One step closer to 2500 FPS with powder coated lead. I am gona have to find a neck die for this rifle.   ETA: checked a few fired, unsized cases and found my chamber has .001 run-out, not perfect but usable.

Caster is right, accurate groups start right after the pin hits the primer and ends when the bullet hits the target. If the bullet is not straight going into the lands it will come out of the barrel not straight, depending on the twist rate of you barrel, the bullet rotates at mind blowing 150,000 RPM, think about you tire just a little bit out of balance.   Bullet RPM Formula Here is a simple formula for calculating bullet RPM: MV x (12/twist rate in inches) x 60 = Bullet RPM Quick Version: MV X 720/Twist Rate = RPM Example One: In a 1:12″ twist barrel the bullet will make one complete revolution for every 12″ (or 1 foot) it travels through the bore. This makes the RPM calculation very easy. With a velocity of 3000 feet per second (FPS), in a 1:12″ twist barrel, the bullet will spin 3000 revolutions per SECOND (because it is traveling exactly one foot, and thereby making one complete revolution, in 1/3000 of a second). To convert to RPM, simply multiply by 60 since there are 60 seconds in a minute. Thus, at 3000 FPS, a bullet will be spinning at 3000 x 60, or 180,000 RPM, when it leaves the barrel. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2008/06/calculating-bullet-rpm-spin-rates-and-stability/

Well I did check Jacketed loads as well, I am thinking something is wrong with reload process, size die is on the list to check.

Ruger SBH, stainless, 44 mag, load lite or heavy, run to shoot. [URL=http://s896.photobucket.com/user/redintn/media/pistols/SuperBlackHawk44Mag_zpsd0e3a7c0.jpg.html][/URL]