TnShooter83

  I know that THP issues a G31 and a G33 to it's officers. G31 is primary duty and G33 is back-up and off duty.  They also issue a Bushmaster in 5.56/223 and if I recall correctly they did have or still do issue a Remington 870 as well. I don't know if they are all issued this many firearms, but  that makes 4 firearms per officer for the THP.    I'd say that seems reasonable enough, as there are thing a rifle can do a shot gun can not. The same can be said for the shot gun. As for the pistols, I can see the need for 2 if one were to fail. And it's even better when the the primary and back up use most of the same parts. As most all Glocks do in the same caliber.     I think the main reason they gave to the news show I watched was that Glock recommended replacement every 4 years where Sig was every 10 years. Also they claimed the .45 would deliver more power over the current .40 they are using.   Either way I honestly don't care what they picked as long as it works and there was reasonable need for new firearms. 

Sounds good to me.       And by the way, no I really didn't read your post in full. I jumped to the link and an attempted to go from there. I'll try and do better next time.....

Stonewash is harder to clean at least for me it has been. I prefer polished or smooth coatings. Wipes clean easier and doesn't hold dirt like stonewash. About the only reason I see stonewash being a "plus" is for the none reflective finish? I have no need for things not to reflect like some one hunting or in combat would need. So I go polished blade.

  According to that report, it looks like they are trading their Glocks in and paying an additional $13,500 for 225x Sig P22R and 59x  "other" needed firearms. So that works out to $47.54 for each firearm. Sounds cheap enough to me. But how many Glock pistols are they trading in? It also states the cost for the P220R is $990.    If anyone cares to know, Elmer Arms South, LLC. Dandridge, TN, has the contract. 

I vote CZ75 first, but that is only because I've shot it more and it shoots like a dream for me. I've shot all three you mention and the Browning comes in second and does all I need of it. I tend to shoot them high (both were "T" Series). I can't shoot a 92 at all. I just do NOT like the trigger on them.    CZ75 for me...

I guessing that if:  You purchase or take possession of a firearm with the sole intent to sell it for profit only. You probably fall into the : "You need an FFL"   With all that has happened recently and prices sky rocketing. I'd say one (the government) could make a case on a person with a home built AR or factory built, purchased recently and never fired, if you are selling it. Like wise with any other firearm.   It's all about your sole intent of the purchase of the firearm. It is pretty simple in my opinion.

976

  ”…We will render you obsolete. We will destroy you. We are coming.”- Anonymous the hacker Group.   I don't know much about this group. But when they say they will do something. It typically happens. Just ask Sony....

CCI MiniMags are where I'd start. Then I try some cheaper ammo and see if it will still run. I'd stay away from the full lead nose rounds. They seem to give me the most fits. 

Very nice knives. I love the top one, looks like it would make a good skinning knife. The bottom one is very nice as well and looks like it would make a good "bushcraft" knife. Not sure I like the green pin stripe, as It makes an old traditional knife look "new". Do you cut these blades yourself or do you use blade blanks?

[quote name='peejman' timestamp='1354741616' post='855370'] I don't ask much... [size=6]just regulations that are clear and simple[/size]. Simplify the seasons, licenses, WMA permits, etc. [/quote] I'd settle for that. It's like it's encrypted and they aren't telling use how to decoded it to figure it all out. Plus the regulations are spread out all over the guide book. Maybe it's me and I'm just not smart enough to figure it all out THE FIRST TIME I READ IT. It takes me at least 3 times to figure it out.

I've shot a Taurus Model 66 with a 7 shot cylinder. It shot fine, but I only shot 50 rounds through it. What concerns me is that when you get past 6 shots the cylinder walls get thin. Is this a problem? Not really, but it just makes me feel a bit more at ease knowing I have a little extra metal between me and overcharged round that may help stop a cracked or blow the cylinder apart. If you plan to shoot 38 mostly, I would not give it a second though. But if you plan to make it a full time full power load workhorse, I'd opt for a more robust 6 shot.

I have NOT run that setup personally. I do know of a few people that have ran a 9mm barrel in the G27. They had no issues other than one guy, who had brass that would eject in an odd pattern. Other than that they seemed to run fine. If you really want to make it (right) you could buy a 9mm Ejector and a 9mm extractor. Which I say would cure the odd ejection course of the brass. Both the people I know used a Storm Lake Barrel.

I have a G23, I love it. I've never had a single problem with it yet. It is more accurate than I am at the moment. It has ate any ammo I've put through it. Although I've NEVER shot steel case in it. It's easy to disassemble and clean and put back together. If you plan to shoot lead through a Glock you will need to change the barrel, as the stock Glock barrel is not suited well to shoot lead. You can also change the barrel in the 40 cal Glock to shoot 357 Sig and even 9mm. Seeing haow they have made MILLIONS of them, I say parts are going to be available for them for just about ever. The down side to the G23? Well it cost more to shoot than 9mm. I say get it, I don't think you will regret it.

I did a little research for you. It appears to be that Sig used internal extractors on the older 2022 pistols. And later they switched to the Exterior extractors. As for which one is better is really not the issue per se' It is when you do have a problem that it gets more difficult. If you have an External extractor it pretty much a drop in part. I've never dealt with a Sig internal extractor. But on MOST one piece internal extractors you some times (most of the time in my experience) need to tune or adjusted them to work right. Some say an internal extractor is better since there is not a place for dirt etc. to get inside the slide, but I don't think that is an issue myself on the exterior extractor design. I'll say, I'm not a fan of the internal extractors since I've had 2 on 1911's that gave me problems. Both were purchased used but still they were no fun to get working when I replace the extractor. I'm a simple man and like things to be easier and work the first time. Ok, maybe I'm more lazy..hahaaa I did look up the Sig internal extractor and it looks like it made different that the 1911 and may even be a better design? [b][size=4]In short, if you shot the pistol and it works, I doubt you will ever have an issue.[/size][/b] [b][size=4]If it fails to feed or eject, it could be a little more difficult to fix than just dropping in parts to fix it.[/size][/b] [b][size=4]Shoot it and have fun.[/size][/b] Links to read more on the 2022 Extracors http://sigtalk.com/sig-sauer-pistols/2375-2022-internal-extractor-vs-external-extractor.html http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=404757&page=3 http://sigtalk.com/sig-sauer-pistols/3767-internal-external-extractor-does-matter.html

[quote name='BlessTheUSA' timestamp='1353637775' post='849628'] I would like to learn to deer hunt. I wouldn't want to rule out wild hogs if needed either. Will the lighter/faster bullets work for large game? As for recoil, I have a 7.62x54 I shoot at the range, and although it's certainly felt, it doesn't overly bother me. I would like to have a rifle that I could use for large game (large deer, hogs, etc.) at fairly long ranges as I learn. The add doesn't mention what calibers they are offering, so I'm hoping .308 is available. Thanks for the help. [/quote] I'm not going to claim to be an expert on bullet weights and game they can kill. But if you are using light bullets they don't penetrate as deep and expand rapidly. Not the best option for a large game bullet. But the rifle you mention above and in the calibers you mention will do fine with both light and all normal for weight/caliber bullets. When I say HEAVIER bullets, I talking bullet not made for hunting. Really, I made things more complicated than they needed to be. In short, that rifle will do all you want it do in any of the 3 calibers you mentioned. Unless you plan to tale Elk or larger game, then I would skip the .243 and go with the .308 or the 30-06.

Yes, it would be a fine deer rifle in any Caliber you mentioned. Varmint usually means Slower twist rate barrels for using lighter FASTER bullets and they are typically HEAVIER and have a thicker barrel. As long as you don't plan to run a suppressor or shoot REALLY heavy bullets it will be fine. As for the Caliber, What is the biggest game you plan to shoot and at what ranges? Do you tolerate recoil well? As for sights I can't help. If you think you want sights, Might as well get a 700 BDL as they have them.

Thanks for the story. I'm sure it will be one to remember for ever. Having dealt with that same pistol in the past. ( I was young, didn't know any better, and it was cheap enough) I wouldn't doubt if the former owner might have thrown it in the creek. (Not wise as I'd disassemble it and scrap it first) They really are that bad and that cheap. The only thing I can recommend you do with it if you get it is keep it as a conversation piece.

[quote name='RED333' timestamp='1353250837' post='847596'] Send it to me, I will dispose of it for ya. [/quote] I guess I should take that statement back. And rephrase it to : I don't like to shoot old ammo. I have shot old ammo. Mostly M1 Carbine and .22lr.

[quote name='TrickyNicky' timestamp='1353290019' post='847908'] Good to know. My brother was wanting a bolt gun he could trick out a bit maybe I'll point him in the MVP direction. I'm thinking some nice glass, a bipod and a few pmags and that would be a good little gun. What's the twist rate in those? We can only shoot out to 100 yards at CHMR but it would be nice to know we could launch those heavier rounds out to 400-500. [/quote] Twist is 1:9, so you will will need to stay under 70gr and try anything over 63gr before you invest in a lot of ammo. Anything under 63gr should be fine. Of course you may already know all this stuff.

Powder?, I doubt it. But I have heard of brass age hardening. I looked it up briefly but didn't dive into all the details. But it does seem to have some validity to it. The good news is brass used for ammo has had major improvements since the 1890's-1920s and almost all new(er) 1950+ brass doesn't seem to crack or age harden. If anyone here can confirm for sure this is indeed a TRUE problem. I'd like to hear more about it. As I don't reload or shoot old (pre-1970) ammo.

I'd personally use BreakFree CLP on the inside of the slide and barrel. It seems to stay on longer than Remoil. I'd wipe the outside of the slide down with a GOOD coat of it as well and let it sit over night. Then I'd wipe the excess oil off the outside of it the next day or before I carry or shoot it. As for the rust on the inside of the slide there isn't much you can do about it other than wipe it off and keep it oiled. A good parkerizing will almost be like 600/800 grit sand paper. It will soak up oil for along time before the oil stays on the outside. The ones I've seen on KelTecs are pretty smooth and seem to be fairly thin. One thing to know about Parerizing is that it WILL wear off on the muzzle and other place that are in contact of with a holster etc. It's just part of owning and using a Parkerized gun, it's gonna wear if you use it and in some cases faster than blue as blue has a smoother finish. I'd still choose Park over blue for it ability hold oil over a longer period of time. I've heard of people placing Parkerized guns in an oven and baking grease in to the finish. But I'll let you research that yourself and see if it is even something you would consider.

I hate to say it. But since you said it would be IWB. I'd go with the KelTec. I think the HiPower Clone is the better gun. But I'd hate to carry it IWB, and more than likely it would be left at home because of the size. The KelTec is better than the any pistol left at home. I'd find a cover shirt and wear the HiPower OWB if I had the choice.

[quote name='Jonnin' timestamp='1352431663' post='842240'] dry fire it once before you buy it. [/quote] You should NOT Dry Fire a KelTec PF-9 with out the use of SNAP CAPS. The extractor screw (actually the extractor spring screw) holds the firing pin in place and if you dry fire these pistols the firing pin will smack the screw and damage the threads or even break the screw all together. If you damage the screw it makes it hard to remove from the slide and can even mess the threads up in the slide if you try to remove the extractor screw. If the screw breaks, the firing pin can fall out the rear of the slide. I think of the PF-9 as a "light weight, light carry, limited use" pistol. I say this because if you plan to carry it, you really should practice with it quite frequently and really get to know the pistol. If you plan to use it alot, I think you will find that a bigger or at least heavier weight and more ergonomic pistol will be more fun and less of a hand full to shoot. I am by no means saying the PF-9 is a bad pistol. I've never personally seen one fail as of yet. But I have seen a good amount for resale due to the reason listed above. I my self have owned a P11 and it was 100%, but no real fun to shoot for extended periods of time. I can only image what it would be like the lighter and smaller PF-9. For what it is worth, I've seen them go used for $200. Good luck in what ever you choose to do.

I never look for it, there for I never see it. I know MANY people that carry every day. And I never give it much thought to looking. I'm more focus on what I'm doing than what others are doing. That could be a good or bad thing.....