TnShooter83

At one time BassPro in Sevierville had them. You may also check J. Floyd's. as well. They may not have one in stock but they might be able to get you one before you leave.     Bass Pro Shop 3629 Outdoor Sportsman Pl, Kodak, TN 37764 (865) 932-5600   J. Floyd's Golf and Gun 539 Winfield Dunn Pkwy, Sevierville, TN 37876 (865) 453-5010

The pistol is a great price. But if you plan to buy any more mags the total investment price may get expensive. The mags can be hard to find and are usually pricey when you do find them.   Other than that it's a great pistol. I've shot 2 different ones and they both ran fine.

  And moister and dirt and what ever else you get on the surface. And it is not as easy to clean as polished either. Sure if you oil it regularly moisture should not be problem. But drag bead blast through the mud and dirt and it will not wipe off near as easy as polished. And it typically wears "slick" on the corners and edges. This might not matter to you, but since you are all ready concerned with "scratches" it maybe?   No offense Dolo, Your advise is some of the best  on this forum. But I've been down the bead blast road and I just don't like it. Not that what I like makes any thing right, I'm just stating my personal findings.

  Unless you just want an SKS this is likely the best option. Spend the extra money on AR stuff like ammo and have fun.

On a public range YES. On a private range not really. If the person is trained for that situation.   If I were the person down range. I would not have any person that I did not know could make the shots on my PRIVATE range.       I guess it's the same thing as going to a doctor. I'm not going to one at my local flea market. I going to one I trust with a degree and in a physicians office.

More than likely the "Diversion" was not cleared after your 11/29 probation. I have seen this problem once when a good friend got denied a firearm purchase. The bad news is that it took about 3 moths to get the problem taken care of once the paper work was sent. What's even worse is that same friend got a DUI and an now can't get his HCP for 4 more years. some people never seem to learn I guess?   By the way. It takes a lot of courage to admit you've done something wrong. And even more to admit it was a drug charge. I don't hold a thing against you or think anything less off you. good to see you are trying to do the right things now. I hope it all works out for you.   And with all the above being said, The absolute WORSE place to ask for any legal advice is the internet. If you take what you "learn" here to court, you'll lose EVER time. I'm sure you know this, but I just have to say it.

The only Para I have shot is the Para P14.45. I did not have to press the mag release in.   I can see no reason why you would even make or want a pistol you have to do that to in order to insert the mag?  

  Depends on the bullet we are using? Are we using light jacketed 40gr Varmint bullets at 3400 fps in a 1/8 or 1/7 barrel? If so, you better back off on the RPM.    I'm not trying to prove you wrong. Or start an argument I'm stating facts form personal experience.  I don't think anything that breaks apart during flight is "stable"   Unless I think I'll ever use 72+gr bullets. I feel 1/9 is a good all around twist.

I'm not an expert and have not yet personally witnessed an "over gassed" rifle symptom. But if one is "over gassed" usually it effect timing. The bolt will try to open to soon while the case still has pressure inside it. When this happens the extractor can rip the rim of the case off. Look at your brass and see if the rime is damaged? Yes, some marks will be seen where the extractor pulled the case from the chamber. This is normal.  Bent or missing pieces of the rim are not normal. If you are getting dented cases this could be from the cases slamming in to the case deflector. Which could be another sign of an "over gassed" rifles.   Again this is my understanding what to much and too soon gas can do to an AR. I researched a lot before I built my first AR. And I went with a Mid-length system on my 16" AR.   Now with all this said, There is a guy on here named Dolo_mite_Supafly. He will be here shortly to clear things up and give you a better understanding of what to look for and how the AR works. Or, you can PM. He is a great guy and is always willing to help.

  I think it's because the gun doesn't cost any thing to own. And you can stick in in the safe and not have to look at it every day. As for the car. It cost gas, insurance, registration and in some cases taxes such as wheel tax ect. Not to mention once you don't want a car you still have to look at it every day. and it's way to big to just hide it some where. Also, for a lot of people it's hard to come up with the extra cash to buy another car like you can a gun. So you have to sell the car to get another one.

You can find G22 Glock pistols at or below $400 pretty regularly. Most of which are police trade-ins. As for the rest keeping their value. They just do.  Why, I don't know. Maybe it's their price to start with, which is relatively cheap compared to other pistols.

I use 91% isopropyl alcohol found at nearly all drug stores. I've also used Non-CFC Brake Cleaner from the auto store too. This stuff works GREAT. But it is recommended to keep it off plastic, rubber and painted surfaces.

Skeptical? Not really. It looks like it should function fine. What I'd want to know is if the bolt carrier is chrome lined? And Is the barrel phosphate coated under the FSB.   I personally like like chrome lined barrels over bare steel. But that really isn't an issue if you clean it even half regularly. Also, I'm not a fan of a fixed FSB, but that may not be an issue for you. You'll likely need a riser block if you plan to run a scope with the Fixed FSB. I just don't like it in my view with a red dot or scope on 3 or less power.   Next is if you need or will ever have a use for 1/7 barrel. If you don't plan to shoot heavy 70+ grain bullets I'd go with a 1/9. That way you can shoot super light varmint (30ish grain) bullets and not have the jacket disintegrate upon leaving the barrel.   I'm not saying there is anything at all wrong with that upper. I'm just pointing out what isn't there I would want. Most likely it will do everything you need it to do. And for $299 you can't complain much.

My Grandfather has one I shot on occasion. He was in the Korean War so he collect firearms from that period. I'm not sure what model his is but it uses a mag release like an AK if I recall. I does also accept AK mags. It functioned great, never a problem when I've shot it. But I haven't shot it more than a 100rnds at best. It's beat the heck out of the standard version with a mag conversion. No need to have the bolt open to insert a new mag.

The Op Rod is not really the same as the Garand. The Garand works more like a gas piston. Where the end of the op rod slides in cylinder. The Mini-14 just uses gas to press the slide/bolt back. The Mini-14 works more like and AR than a Garand as far as the gas system goes.   I'm by no means calling you out for being "wrong". Ruger just dropped a few parts and took a few short cuts in this area. If you ever take the stock of the Ruger and pull the bolt handle you'll see that there is a great big "void" where where is just dumps gas once the slide/bolt rod slides back maybe 1/4".

I have to agree. I'd say the metal clasp on leash took a good "beating" as did the actual leash. Lucky dog. It got out of the elevator as fast as he could. Something tells me it's not going back in an elevator anytime soon. Can't say I blame the him.   Sadly it's not the first one. THE DOG DOES NOT DIE. SAFE TO WATCH.   http://youtu.be/Ki-a22gGZOw

Here is what I do. I spray CARB CLEANER directly in the cylinder through the spark plug hole. It will either start or not start.   If it starts it's a fuel issue. If it does not start it's a spark issue.   If it is a spark I pull the plug and ground it to a GOOD ground and look for a spark. It needs to be hitting consistently and fairly bright. If that doesn't help I move to the magneto. I regap and clean it. I use 600 grit sand paper. If that doesn't help I resort to throwing thing and saying bad words. Sometimes, but rarely this seems to help...lmao.   If it's a fuel issue, I pull the carb and clean it. Pull the jets and make note of how far any jet or air screws are turned in. COUNT THE NUMBER OF TURNS IT TAKES TO REMOVE THEM. REINSTALL WITH THE SAME AMOUNT OF TURNS. DO NOT GO FURTHER. This will usually get it running. You can fine tune later. You need a piece of wire to stick in the small port and venturies . Just find some electrical wire and strip it until you find the size you need. Then spray all the ports and hole you can see and get to. Wear safety glasses and keep your mouth closed. You will get wet doing this.   Alternatively soaking the whole carb and all it's part are better, but it takes longer and can damage plastic parts. So be careful. I'm just "cheap" and don't want to spend $30 on a can of cleaner. Not unless I have too. The $4.00 can of Carb Cleaner usually does fine for small carbs.

  I don't want to sound rude. But you answered your own question there. Most people that are good at shooting put a lot of work into shooting "good" And this is coming from someone that has to practice every thing I do. Very few things in life have come natural to me. Shooting is definitely not one of them for me. Obviously you're on you way to shooting better, as you come to realize you need practice.   I started with watching what other shooter were doing. Not the avg. range guy either. I looked up many competition shooters. At one point I ran across a thumbs forward grip. This felt more comfortable for me and help me a lot in automatics. But you should NOT use this in revolvers. So, now I fell awkward shooting revolvers.   My best advice is to ask and watch others that shoot "better" than you. Try it and see what works for you. If it doesn't, figure out why. And if needed try something else. Eventually you will find what works and what doesn't. Like anything it comes at a price, luckily you reload and this will help.   Beast of luck to you buddy. I know where you are coming from.

I honestly can't tell you at the moment what choke I have in my Mossberg. It was the one that was in it when I bought it and it does good with 3" #5 shot Remington shells. As far as pellet count goes, I can't give you a number it's been a few years since i shot it on the paper to see or count. But it was enough to kill a turkey. Sometimes a tighter choke does not help. Usually you see this when you use "softer" lead shot. The choke squeezes the pellets and deforms them to a point where they can become less aerodynamic and the pellets open up the shot. I'd first try different size and brand shot. Stick with "Turkey Load" shells. If that doesn't help, then I'd go with a different choke.   I've been told by MANY, MANY Turkey hunter that some of the best shells are Heavy-13. I think they even make a Blended Shot now? 6-4 in shot size. I just haven't broke down and paid what they want for them to try them.   People say a lot of things. I wouldn't get too caught up on other peoples pellet counts. I noticed you said head, are you counting the neck too? The neck area counts in the "pellet count"

I have not had one fail yet. I've not personally seen one fail. From my understanding, the reason for a plastic guide rod was for cost and weight. Plastic is cheaper and weighs less than metal. Not only that but since a lot of Guide rods and recoil springs are recommened replacement parts at some number of rounds. So it being plastic not a real issue if you preform the "routine maintenance" suggested by the manufacturer. At least not for me it isn't.   On a side note: I believe the Gen4 Glocks have gone to metal guide rods. But I think this was due to the design rather than it being a plastic issue. The plastic rod was a one piece. The new Gen4 is a Dual Spring setup.

How is the barrel lock up? Is it at all possible that the barrel lug or locking insert/block is damaged or not "fitted" in alignment? Is it a new Stamped Slide or older one? I don't have a Sig to compare, but looking at my Glock. It seems at some point the firing pin would hit the inside of the slide before it would go that far off center? Of course the Sigs may have an elongated firing pin hole. Maybe it could possibly let the firing pin "fall" low enough to hit the primer rim and cause a failure to fire?   I'm thinking something is not "in line" between the barrel and breech face/ firing pin? Than again I'm not a gun smith nor do I own a Sig.   If it were me I'd shoot it until it fails. Then I'd know I have a problem. You could call Sig and ask them, but you'd probably get the generic "It's working, so all is fine" response.

I've heard of it. But that only because a Member on here by the name of Dolomite_Supafly was giving away free mag banners. I've never seen that picture before and it is very interesting. I don't own a .300 but I like to see if it would chamber in a .223/5.56. My be like drop it in the chamber of a barrel. I would not use the bolt to chamber it. It may get stuck?   Here is the post Dolomite_Supafly has on the issue. http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/76655-here-is-my-gift-to-the-300-blackout-owners-on-tgo/?hl=gift

For a sub $70 scope try a CenterPoint or a Leapers. As for a general all around good shooting pellet I recommend The Crosman Premier LIGHTS 7.9 gr. Theses are not what you will find in most of the chain stores. They will come in a cardboard box. NExt would be JSB Match Diabolo 8.4 gr. I'm sure you are not going to like the fact you will likely have to mail order them. But when it comes to quality pellets that are CONSISTENT you almost have no other option. I can't speak for current Gamo pellets, but the last I tried were BAD. I fully expect them to be subpar compared to others, as I had shot other gamo pellets before. But come on, look at the "quality" they put in there. These should never have made it out of the factory. The groups looked like a a shotgun pattern. The BAD Gamo pellets Once you find the pellet your rifle likes. You can stack them in there at 90 in a hole. That is 90 shots in the center target. Rifle used was an Airforce Talon SS. The "fliers" were ants and way over on the right is the remains of a yellow jacket. Here are links to the pellets I mentioned. http://www.pyramydair.com/s/p/Crosman_Premier_Light_177_Cal_7_9_Grains_Domed_1250ct/118 http://www.pyramydair.com/s/p/JSB_Match_Diabolo_Exact_177_Cal_8_4_Grains_Domed_500ct/261

I've personally shot both. I don't like them for reasons none of which will be of a concern to you. It is purely a personal dislike. But if I had to pick one it would be the Kimber. The Kimber shoots better for me.   For my "other" pick. It would be any Glock in 9mm. If you want the option for a manual safety I'd pick an M&P9 or an M&P40. The reason I recommend them is, that is what I have the most time with in the field or range.

Very nice. It's hard to go wrong with a G19.