Beltfed

Berry’s are plated as I understand it. Loaded up around thirty of two different powders, middle of the road pressure wise, to test. I am using flat base data. Just don’t want to destroy a pistol. No bulge with .356. Will soon be moving on to a Beretta pico in .380. They suggest a stout load for it as the recoil spring is the strongest I’ve seen in one of the small pistols. Thanks, Bob

I am getting into loading .380’s on both my Dillon’s and Rock Chuckers. Find the lighter bullets, 85 to 90 grains, with a .355 diameter are impossible to find. I purchased 500ea. 100 grain .356” that are RNHB (round nose hollow base). They came from Midsouth. Anyone shot these as I find no data for the hollow base in 100 grain. Does loading data for 100 grain flat base apply? Thanks, Bob

I also have a M1A built up by the Alabama marksmanship unit. All GI parts except the receiver, barrel, and stock. Why built yours?

I will take the Pico. I live on Middlebrook Pike near Cedar Bluff. Am available most times. Bob

Didn’t know Barrett made their own barrels.

Great find on a Ma Duce barrel. I personally never owned one due to the cost of feeding it. I had chances years ago on two mounted on a navy twin mount. Fodder was 85 cents each back then. You might call Barrett down toward Nashville and ask them. I believe they uses them in modified form on their big dogs, but not sure. Due to todays ammo prices shot out barrels are rare in civilian hands but it can happen if one’s got the bucks to spend. The above posts sound good. ”Happiness is a warm belt fed.”

As title says, I want a pistol in .40 S&W. NOT a Glock! I have one with several barrels which will not chamber anything but hardball. I have a good supply of .40 which I can’t shoot. Seller needs to be within easy driving distance of Knoxville. Thanks.

I see no need to replace stock. I have others to shoot, for the kids, and have no need to shoot this one. I do need to get an expert eyes on this carbine to verify it is as issued. Again, I’m not a collector but a gatherer Thanks for all the input.

The gentleman I spoke with, who is a true collector, ask me to look in several areas to confirm ‘as built’. One area was below the recoil plate. The plate has rough machining marks where it meets the stock. He ask if the indentations in the wood match the rough marks of the recoil plate. It does. Fit and finish from handling and firing are also correct. This is an Inland manufacturer, an early 5 figure first contract. As such, it only has Inland marked parts, no sub contractors. Admittedly, the barrel is close to worn out. As I’m no carbine collector, I’m just going on what the collectors stated. Bob

Oh no, Grayfox. This is an ‘as built’ early M1 carbine. Putting it in a new stock would drop the sale price maybe $800.00 to 1K. Selling it with a crack won’t work either. You may not be familiar with M1 carbine. Every part on it including the stock are marked by the manufacturer unlike the M1 Garand.

Acquired an early ‘as built’ carbine. Problem is, the stock has a crack at the fore end and several small cracks behind the receiver. Anyone know a pro that can fix it? Thanks, Bob

I sold them for $40.00 to $45.00 a brick during the pandemic. If you have plenty then it would be kind of you to help your fellow Tennesseans out. Say $50.00 to $55.00 a brick. Yeah, not market price but you’ll still make some coin.

Thanks. I’m going to do some research on that process. Still have a good size blaster and if it’s not too bad, may do some work using it. if you don’t mind. Who did your work?

Does you vendor bead blast your slide first?

A bath running at 1000+ degrees was not in our toolbox. Cost may be also higher, I don’t know. We did .50 caliper barrels for $50 each. How much does your coating cost for same barrel? Thanks, Bob

Years ago my small company worked for Accuracy International or Cooper Precision out of UK, coating military sniper rifles. We used a coating called ‘Gun Koat”. It is tough as nails and will not chip. Feed back from sniper’s was excellent.

Do anyone beside me have trouble logging in to the CMP forums website? It keeps telling me that my IP address is denied. Thanks.

I have one of the model 28. It is my first pistol and was a sock drawer gun for many years. Use to shoot it years ago before my modest collection grew. Still have the box, cleaning rod, and even the wax paper it was wrapped in. It truly is a great firearm. I would not take $700 for mine.

I met a guy from Karns who says he has one, but I offered good money for it but wouldn’t budge. I would like GI parts for early carbines (6 figures) plus trying to correct my collection of Garands. I still going thru my one as built carbine (1943) but need a correct front barrel band type A, the narrow sling slot. Got one? I will post later with my needs on one Winchester carbine plus whatever my Garands need. Thank you.

I’m a U.S. arms collector, more like a gatherer than a collector. All the parts for these arms have pretty much disappeared from gun shows. Did any of you guys/gals buy all these parts? If so, reach out to me if you have a stash of these parts for sell or trade. Also in search of a 1941 Johnson to complete my collection of smokeless powder firearms from the Krag to the M4. Thanks, Bob

There is a manufacturer stamp on the en bloc. It is inside the circles. Some are hard to read, also some are rare. You pic shows one that is very common.

I’ll take on. PM inbound.

Are they the 2 or 3 die sets?

Can the ejection port be changed to left hand like the AUG?

I my youth, my group worked on an electron microscope among other electronics at UT. We used e-rings and springs so small you could just see them with normal eyesight. We called them “Jesus springs and Jesus clips”. One would fly off and we would say, “Jesus! Where’d it go!”