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Just getting into reloading and unsure what powder measure to get. I'm staring with 9mm but want to eventually get into 223/556 and 300 blk so I'd like pistol and rifle options. I got a rock chucker single stage press to start with.

Is anyone using Shootersworld blackout for reloading 300 Blackout subsonics? I see it is inexpensive and has published data. It seems to be manufactured in Germany. Any advice on this topic would be great.

All gone except for 30 carbine brass. Once-fired brass (not cleaned/not de-primed/not polished/etc) 45 Long Colt, 44 Mag, 30,06 ...... 25 cents per round 30 Carbine ...... 20 cents per round I have not counted the quantities but will do so if any of y’all are interested. For sale or trade for any of the above ammo. FTF in the Lebanon area. Be safe!!

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I bought my first MEC 600 Jr back in 1965, so they are not a "new toy" to me. In fact, I have two set up for .410, one for 20 gauge, one for 16 gauge, and one for 12 gauge. So I'm not exactly a novice at loading shotgun shells with a MEC 600 Jr. However, it has been a while since I loaded any .410 and they can be tricky little devils. I have the standard MEC charge bar in there for the 2 1/2" shells. This charge bar is supposed to throw 1/2 ounce of lead shot and whatever powder bushing your load calls for. This bar feels like it is dragging! Instead of sliding back and forth like my other machines, I practically have to bruise the heel of my hand, going in both directions to get it to throw shot or powder. I think I may have it figured out, but wanted to run it past you guys. The rubber grommets for both the shot and powder bottles are old and hard. As you know there is a thin brass washer under the powder bushing. I'm kinda thinking the hardness prevents the knobs on top of this washer from sinking into the rubber grommet. Therefore, when I tighten the powder bottle down, it forces the brass washer to be pressed too hard on top of the charge bar. Another thought, is that the rubber insert in the shot orifice/hole is dragging on the bar frame also. What do you guys think? Have any of you had that problem? Second question is, what method do you use to enlarge the "shot orifice/hole" in your bar so that it will throw the published load? I understand that shot weight that will fit into that hole depends on the size of shot you're throwing. And yes, I could just get a universal bar with adjustments, but I'm not totally sold on them yet. Currently, I weigh every powder charge and every shot charge and adjust them to the exact published load! That sure makes the MEC 600 Jr a "slow" loader! Thanks for your words of wisdom, comments, opinions or plain old WAGs.

Had to buy 2 tires for the truck yesterday. The place I use is in Harriman. He had 9 plastic pails filled with assorted used tire weights. They used to have a guy that came around but they haven't seen him in a while. Offered to sell me some. I'm not casting ... yet, but I know some Knox area guys are. PM me and I'll give you the location.

I picked up a 410 pump a good bit ago from a member and put it up. I did buy some defense rounds and some bird shot. With all the Bovine Scatology going on I wanted to get a few compensates on hand. I have primers and powder but I had zero hulls or wads. I did find primed hulls and wads and have what I need for the time ahead. I went looking for some hulls and can not find any. Do I need any more, not just yet. It looks as if the commies (leftists, progressives and dems) have marched in and taken the powder, shot and cannon from the common man (just as the brits tried to so many years ago) and are turning our firearms into clubs.

Found this in the brass bucket at the range. Obviously something is wrong. Lol How would you even pull the bullet to reuse the brass?

Hello forum! Does anyone have a favorite 9 mm load using a 124 gr. lead cast coated bullet and Unique? I am looking at the ACME Bullet version. Any 124 gr. or 125 gr. coated lead cast bullet data would help.I know I'm old school using Unique. I have a good stock of it and I like it in my .38 Special, .44 Special and .45 ACP. http://www.acmebullet.com/bullets-reloading-brass/9MM-Lead-Cast-Reloading-Bullets?product_id=424

is anyone else reloading for the 22 tcm ? i have been for around 5 yrs now . so what powders and bullets do you like ?

I recently received some empty aluminum 9mm cases in a batch of misc. brass. I don't see why these can't be reloaded, but I've personally never heard of anyone actually doing it. Anyone have experience or potential issues I should be aware of? Thanks in advance. I did a brief search on this but came up empty. My apologies if it's already been discussed.

Purchased the software about a year ago. Then realized ‘garbage in=garbage out’ so I then purchased a Pro Chrono for velocity measurements. I would like to spend some time with someone who is experienced with the software to learn “tip,tricks and traps” to get me over the initial hump of learning how to use Quickload. I’m a little overwhelmed with what the software can do and I am over analyzing everything. “Analysis Paralysis” I’ve printed out the Quickload manual and read through it several times. I do have many years of reloading behind my belt and recently got back into it after divorce, college, raising family and other life events that shifted my priorities. Could some kind soul allow me to spend an afternoon with them so I can pick their brains and experience? Willing to travel an hour or so and provide pizza and refreshments for your time.

Here's the question. I cast 100 .452 RNFP (Lee Die) 255gr bullets. Because of the high antimony content the bullets averaged out at 222gr. What if any considerations should I take into account for the weight difference? My first thought is that I would stick with 255gr load data as the size of the round is the same thus limiting case capacity. I would assume that velocity would more then likely increase since weight is different, unless the bearing surface of the bullet actually has more of an effect then the overall weight. Anyways, let the speculation begin. Round Details Caliber: 460 Rowland Powders: Accurate #7 / #5 Brass: Starline (New) Primers: Winchester (LP)

Tired of the noise and wear with my vibrating tumbler. Any thoughts about rotary tumblers (wet or dry) and brand suggestions? Considering Frankfort Arsenal Platinum Series

Had been having problems with static electricity, in my funnel with CFE powder. Tried different things/suggestions, some helped for a while, always returned. Got to prowling on the 'net, & found an aluminum funnel that is static free. It's also caliber specific ( only fits one caliber). I ordered one for my 9MM, it works like a charm....no more static, plus, it sits on the mouth of the case, don't have to hold it up. Ordered from Brownells, about $12 = S/H. Worth it. Some of you guys may already be aware of this , but this is for some of the newbees, that may be having the same issue.

Looking for a little 'baseline' info. I am not 'new' to reloading, but something I thought would be a walk in the park now has me seeking advice. I picked up a boat-load of German (MEN) 7.62 which has proven reliable in my FAL. I've been chasing the brass around for a while now and figured I'd re-load some. Got another deal on Hornady 155 gn BTHP from Midway, and I was enthusiastic about this particular bullet as it has a cannalure exactly where it should be and these are destined for the FAL, a good solid crimp seems prudent... and it was really inexpensive. Looked up some load data for 155 gr bullets to select a powder and settled on Hodgdon BL-C (2). Hodgdon data recommends a 45 gr starting load with a maximum of 48 gr. Now it gets interesting. Brass was de-capped full length re-sized using a Lee .308 Winchester die, and tumbled for a day. MEN does not appear to stake in primers so I did not need to mess with primer pockets. I seated Winchester WLR Standard Large Rifle primers. I dropped my first charge in the case (45 gr) and it was REALLY close to the neck. Puzzled, I threw a 48 gr charge and put this in a second case. This was well into the neck of the case... there is no way this is gonna work! I checked calibration on my digital scale and it's perfect. I did a little looking around on the internet and discovered that 7.62 brass is 'typically' thicker and may have a heaver 'web' than .308. I have not attempted to do a case volume measurement, I've never messed with this before. I am assuming (and you know what that means) the MEN cases are markedly smaller internally than the Winchester brass used to produce the Hodgdon data. From what I am 'observing, it looks to me like 45 grs is going to be about max without compressing, and there is no way I want to start compressing a ball powder! With bullet at the cannalure, LOA will be exactly 2.80 inches. So the question here, is how far back should I go to select a 'starting' charge. My gut is telling me maybe 42 gr, and work up in half grs from there. Any thoughts??

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I was musing the recently about some handgun bullets from the past, from my recollection. I remember reading much of Elmer Keith's opinions, and that he totally condemned jacketed handgun bullets, preferring cast bullets, mostly of his design. And cast, or as far as factory ammunition was concerned, swaged lead bullets, remained the stand-by for a long time, up until the introduction of the .44 Magnum cartridge in 1955. The .44 ushered in a new era in revolver bullets. Jacketed bullets, full metal jacketed, soft point, and hollow point jacketed bullets had been around for a long time, mostly in the European auto pistol cartridges, such as the .30 Mauser and 7.65mm Luger. And the .38-40 and .44-40 were offered in hollow point bullets, but these actually intended for use in rifles. There was a company that originated about the time the .44 was introduced that offered a line of bullets cast of a zinc based alloy. This company, the Cladaloy Bullet Co. sold bullets by mail through magazine advertising. Their bullets were cast of Zinc, and copper coated. Zinc being roughly half the density of lead were very light in weight. A bullet cast from a mold throwing a.44 caliber bullet of lead weighed 246 grs. while the same mold yielded a 128 gr. zinc based bullet. Those who tested those bullet claimed velocities in a .44 Special hit 1100 ~ 1200 fps. The advantage was high velocities with minimum recoil. So far as I can determine, the company lasted from about 1955 through maybe 1958. The late Jim Harvey developed his Pro-Tex-Bore bullets which were swaged of pure lead but had a zinc washer riveted to the base of the bullet. These bullets ran toward the nominal lead bullet weights. His claim was that the zinc washer prevented any leading of the bore when pushed to high velocities, as his loading data pushed .44 Magnum bullets above the 1400 fps level. Harvey also became a proponent of the half jacketed bullet, using a pure lead core swaged into a copper cup, really sort of an elongated gas check. Speer made and marketed these bullets for many years, still offering one style, I believe, a 225 gr. Half Jacketed bullet. One drawback to these is that if the velocity level falls below a certain point there is the possibility the lead core will separate and leave the jacket stuck in the bore. With the coming of new powders that easily develop 1300 fps or higher, the jacketed bullets having an ogive have become commonplace and now good hunting bullets from Speer, Hornady, Sierra and factory fodder from Remington, Winchester and Federal are available, all of which give good performance in the field. Bob Wright

I got a Lee Load All II over 20yrs ago, and never used it :/ Doesn't look like they've changed in all that time(?) ...Anyways. I'd like to replicate some of the 9 pellet low-recoil (1150 fps) stuff I've been shooting from brands like Fiocchi.... I'm not really interested in loading anything else right now. Slugs would probably be next. Anyone know of a good recipe(s) for what I'm looking for? And is there anywhere to get 00 buck shot at a price that makes sense, or will i need to cast my own for reloading to save me any money? I'm in an apartment, so that would be tricky :/ If this question is a lot more complicated than i'm thinking , links would be appreciated too. Thanks!!

Just walked out the Gander Mountain in Hixson and they have a couple hundred boxes of 30.06 on sale at 40% off. Plenty of other calibers, but in half dozen to dozen lots. Almost out of 308 and three cases of 1000 round federal 223 left at .26 cents/Rd. picked up a RCBS Chargemaster at 40% off also have a large quantity of .40 brass available Only large pistol primers left, Winchester and Federal match

Brothers n Sisters... I've recently come into possession of a lightly used, lovingly cared for Ruger Vaquero Single Six in 32 HR Magnum... Do any of ya reload for him, and do ya have any "pet loads" for plinking and repelling boarders...? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated... Thanks in advance... "32" leroy....

"Which came first; the chicken or the egg!" Or in other words, do you choose your favorite gun and then reload for it OR do you choose your favorite gun because you can reload for it? (Does that even make sense? LOL!) I find that my favorite gun is always one that I can also enjoy the handloading development process for it. When I feel like reloading 38s or 357 magnums, usually a revolver or the H&R becomes the number one gun I pick up to take to the range. During hunting season, the favorite gun became either the deer rifle or the 300 blackout I was experimenting with. Now, I have a new favorite. I'm on a reloading trek for 9mm. Lots of 9mm. 9mm in all flavors! Recently, I was able to finish the Palmetto State Armory AR9 that I have been waiting on for almost 9 months. They finally got the upper in that I was hoping for and it's now paired with the Glock lower and an inexpensive red dot sight bought on sale from Amazon. I discovered that with that gun and some of my handloads, I can consistently ring the 6" gong at 100 yards. It's a hoot getting that small gong swinging and trying to hit it as fast as you can. Is it a problem that I have to reload a lot of new 9mm ammo? What's your favorite fun gun right now?

Greetings to the group, Having purchased a Savage model 10 in .223 Remington, I'm interested in handloading ammo with very good uniformity for target shooting. I'm new to this sport, so there's lots to be learned. Reading about the different methods of dealing with lacking concentricity & with proper bullet tension, neck thickness & run out & such, I'd like to know if any of you have strong opinions on whether the bushing style, collet style or ball style neck sizing dies give the best results in terms of concentricity and bullet tension. Keep in mind this is for a bolt gun which will see only the same fire formed brass repeatedly.