broylz

i too want to get a bekey. i do notice that i drink alot more water if i filter even the tap water. i currently use a PUR tap mounted filter at home and a brita filter bottle at work. neither are usable on questionable water sources but both take most the chemical flavor out.

i had a good time out there. didnt do as well as i had hoped but not too bad.

handcuffs do genrally use the same key. imagine how many keys prison officials would need for tranports if they didnt? im not aware of a law in TN prohibiting it but i havent looked either. i spent 10 years as an MP and still have a cuff key on my keychain.

nowing more of your specifics and the strict budget, i would look into the cheapest savage model 10 or even a stevens. throw a walmart bushnell banner 3-9x or similar scope on it and go shoot it. the savage is much easier to do barrel swaps on in the future as your budget and skill improves. better to shoot a chaper gun than no gun this will also allow you to learn specifically what you would liketo change over time and build to suit, or keep it as a hunting riflean get a better match gun later, like a savage 12. i absolutely love he .308 round and would go with it for an entry level target gun. my second choice would be a .30-06 as its most popular with my family and friends that hunt and allows a wide range of possibilities for a reloader.

i would suggest saving for a bit better budget. seeing as you have a colt carbine with an aimpoint says that you have some sort of quality standard. i would suggest nothing less than a remington 700 or a savage 10 or 110. i would also suggest a varmint contour barrel instead of the sporter hunting lighter contour. i started with a remington 700 SPS-Varmint but replaced the stock with a HS precision 5R take-off stock. second rifle was a remington 700 5R milspec, and last was my favorite, a Remington 700 AAC-SD all in .308. i personally prefer the varmint contour barrel found on all three of the ones i listed. the differences are barrel length and twist rate. the SPS was a 1:12 which is great for bullets up to 168gr typically, the 5R had 1:11.2 which is the army standard for 175gr match kings. the last one, the AAC-SD was a 1:10 twist which is what the marine corps use and is good for heavier bullets up to the 220gr range. within your 400 yard range, a .223 bolt gun would be cheaper to shoot and still good at that range but then again so would your Colt carbine with a better optic. i prefer the extra power of the .308 as well as my familiarity with it from military experience and its know data from all of the people who shoot it for precision and load data available. the optimal barrel length needed is around 20", as typically argued, but the military uses a 24" and most hunting or varmint rifles will have a 26" barrel. all of that said, the more important part of precision long range shooting is the optics and proper solid mounts. i have had a couple of cheaper Millet scopes and they are decent entry level optics. Vortex Viper PST is what i would recommend for mid range and then it just goes up from there. you can get a remington SPS-Varmint rifle for 550 or so but you will probably want to swap the stock fairly soon. a SPS-Tactical or AAC-SD will run in the 650-750 range. top it with Weaver base and rings and a Millett TRS-1 scope for around 400 or step up to the Vortex Viper PST for 600-750 depending on magnification. edited to add, as far as accuracy expectations, i am no expert but i had the SPS-V doing about 1.25-1.5" with 168gr reloads with the factory stock. it got around an 1-1.25 with the 5R stock. the 5R milspec got in the .5-.75 range with 175gr federal gold medal match ammo. my AAC-SD never got match ammo but did put some 165gr hornady SST hunting ammo through it and got right at 1" every single time. my SPS-V had a SWFA super sniper fixed 10x scope on it with walmart cheap 2 piece scope base and Burris XTR rings. the 5R initially had a cheap BSA 4-16x scope on it that was garbage and wouldnt hold zero or adjust properly. i replaced it with a Millett TRS-1. the AAC-SD had a weaver 20moa canted base and weaver tactical rings on it and the same Millett TRS-1. i shot a buddy's rifle with the PST scope and loved it but had to sell my rifle before i could save up any cash for the new scope. if i were doing another build, i would get the AAC-SD again, swap the scope for a HS Precision 5R or 700P take-off stock, Seekins precision 20moa base and rings, Viper PST 2.5-10 scope and a CDI precision detachable magazine. unlimited budget would have the same with the scope going to a Vortex Razor HD 5-20x scope.

not me but ive heard of this in florida several times and thought it was crazy.

you can support your local stores by purchasing your pitchforks, torches, and tar at Lowe's and your feathers at Hobby Lobby or Michael's if you cant get them through the Co-Op

i use a katadyn hiker mostly and treat it with chlorine dioxide tabs as well. i prefer the polar pure iodine crystals but i havent seen any of than in a long time. i also recently got a MSR miox but havent played with it at all yet. seems a bit more complicated than i want but i got it in a package deal awhile back.

i too agree with president fernatt even though im on the older edge of the group at 29. i see this everywhere i am lately. my biggest laugh and scare usually comes from my wife who decided to be a social work major at APSU. she started off believing that she could help the system and now believes everyone has an excuse and its rarely anyones fault. that said, i will be at the GSSF match in dickson this weekend. would be a very bad place for an uprising

the TSD looks awesome

are the stages pretty well the same but different by class, like IDPA? if i did amateur civilian with a 23 and then amateur competition with the 35, would i basically shoot each stage twice? sorry for the questions, but im just used to a huge rulebook and people debating whether a pistol mod is legal or not. now im being told just to be safe and have fun.

only indoor range i have shot at was guns and leather in greenbrier. i like the programmable ranges when they work. i have about a 50% success rate whether they work.

no scheduling conflicts with idpa as its the following weekend. that said, i have a 23, 35 and a 17. wife has a 26 too but i havent shot it since it got painted pink. i saw that there is an amateur civilian stage that doesnt allow the 35, but then i could use it on amateur competition. is there a minimum power factor for different classes or calibers? any special equipment needed or special rules?

i just heard about the GSSF match out in dickson coming up. i have only ever shot IDPA and was wondering if anyone would care to give me some tips on what to expect? i looked at gssfonline and read through the new shooters brief but i didnt see much as far as different classifications and such or what would put you in one over the other etc... also, any chance any of you on here shoot IDPA at rattlesnake ridge and are planning on going to this shoot in dickson?

i went saturday morning as well. i didnt like what i saw.

my favorite glock is the 35. i like the 34/35 size for its balance but the 35 gets the edge for use with conversion barrels. also for IDPA, .40 can be downloaded to the minimum power factor and have much less recoil than a 9mm.

i keep my brass in kitty litter buckets. SHTF good ammo is stored in .30cal ammo cans for each pistol, .50cal ammo cans for each rifle, except 22lr - 3500 in a .30cal can is heavy enough, shotgun gets a few different cans seperated by ammo type and bulk pack skeet loads are left in the factory box and stacked on a shelf. my good ammo in cans is stored in the bottom of my safe. other cans of reloads for training and competitions are stacked under my desk i use as a reloading table. components are stored in the upper shelves. might seperate several types of ammo for each gun in a .50 can so if i have to grab and go quickly, i can have pistol, rifle and shotgun ammo if only in smaller amounts.

Added some color to mine. Glock 17 with Khaki Krylon, and an OD G35. and the pink G26 i painted for my wife with a breast cancer awareness ribbon as it runs in her family.

i have shot rifled slugs through a modified choke and its ok for some of them but an IC choke typically does better.

i have a katadyn hiker and a msr miox for prtable filters. i also have some chlorine tabs of some sort i got in the walmart camping section as well as some iodine tabs. for bulk or longer term, i have 2lbs of Calcium Hypochlorite to make liquid bleack. i bought it as pool shock, but have to be sure it doesnt have the extra anti fungal chemicals and such in it. normal bleach will lose its potency starting as soon as 3 months and will be basically salt water after 2-3 years. the pool shock will stay good almost indefinitely and when mixed, use as fresh bleach. my next project is a couple black berkey filter elements to make bucket berkeys from. i will only use 1 filter each so i have a pair for redundancy even if it is a bit slower.

rifled barrels are best with sabot slugs. smoothbore for everything else.

i have a mossberg 535 20" that can shoot 3.5"s but i think 3" are enough for my shoulder. i shoot winchester 3" magnum #4 turkey loads with my xx-full mossberg factory ported choke. dad has a mossberg 500 with a 20" ventrib barrel and uses the same ammo and choke. my first kill was with a 2 3/4" #4 shotshell from a 28" modified fixed choke barrel.

i am an Eagle as well. got it finished a few months before i turned 18. my little brother got his done much quicker. you dont hear much about it anymore. got me an automatic promotion to "skeeter wings" when i enlisted though.

rodents like that are why i tried to convice my wife steel drums are the best to store stuff in. she still doesnt think it matters but my stuff in the steel drums havent been touched.

congrats!