OldIronFan

All about what you think you want out of it or might use it for. Rank this 1 to 4 in order of importance to you. Long Range Shooting (Target / PRS Gas Gun / Match Shooting) Medium range (300 yards and under) target or fun plinking Hunting (game animals of typical North American size) Hunting (varmint, predator, small game)

Most of the ones I have seen were placed with the opening fairly close to the outside garage door. If you have a decent sized suburban 2 car garage, a normal size sedan/crossover style car (Not a giant SUV or pickup truck), and don't have a ton of crap stored against the front wall the car is forward enough to easily access the opening of the shelter without moving the vehicle. Without stuff stored on my front wall I have 6+ feet behind my wife's car to the garage door. Plenty of room for the shelter access if I had one. I looked into the inground garage shelters as an option when we were building our house but due to our floor plan and how the house sat on the slope of the lot I was able to do a larger reinforced block and cement crawlspace shelter instead.

I love automatics. My budget restricts me to Seiko similar quality offerings. The biggest problem I have is they do not seem to love me. Still have a little Seiko Sport that is solid but small for my taste and is not well regulated (gains several minutes over the course of a day). It is also showing its age. I bought a really nice Grand Seiko, my first real watch splurge, and had if for a number of years until it was stolen. I have a nice PVD Seiko Diver that is non-op due to what I think is a broken spring. I could probably replace it for what it would cost to have it checked and repaired. Someone bought me and Invicta automatic diver. It is a bit big and clunky but otherwise ok. Has a broken band link currently. Last year I went back to a digital watch. I am currently daily wearing a Suunto Core all black. So far I like it. Altimeter/Barometer and Compass are nice but only moderately useful. It has been comfortable even though it is large. It has been reliable and has held up well.

Not a specific source although the Southern Poverty Law Center database mentioned by Monkeylizard is one that has come up or is referenced in multiple articles on the subject. My statements are based on a collection of reading I have done over time including my interest/participation in the civil war reenactment/living history events. If you set aside the misguided actions and craziness of the current extremists groups (on both sides) of the arguments and ask a 50+ year old black American what the memorials and statues mean to them you will hear a different side that is not well represented by mainstream media. I would add the caveat that I am not speaking of memorials, plaques or statues that are present on federal park lands or battlefield parks like Shiloh, Gettysburg, or even Stones River National Battlefield. Those places are the exact opposite of what I am speak of and are for the express purpose of preserving and presenting the actual history of the war. I am speaking of statues, busts, and memorials placed in or around southern civil buildings like courthouse and capitols. Most of those were put in place a couple of generations or more after the end of the civil war by groups like the United Daughters of the Confederacy.

All these statues being taken down were never about history to begin with. I find the claims that removing them is an attempt to erase or rewrite history laughable. They were not commissioned by historical societies, municipalities, museums, veterans groups, or any department of state/federal government. They were paid for in whole or in part by individuals and the United Daughters of the Confederacy. The statues and memorials were put in place by confederate sympathizers, racist, and segregationist as an effort to reshape the history of the civil war and to preserve confederate culture in the south through the first half of the 20th century. They were used specifically as a tool for the intimidation and oppression of blacks. That continued on deep into the 1960s. There were clearly observable spikes in the commission of new memorials and statues leading up to and following turbulent times like Brown v. Board of Ed and the Civil Rights act in 64. It was undeniably an attempt to fight the rising tide of civil rights and desegregation. The United Daughters of the Confederacy also fought against any school textbook that claimed slavery was the central issue of the Civil War and helped frame the states rights argument. They worked to downplay the cruelty of slave owners and the horrors of slavery. Those that currently rail against what they see as attempts to rewrite history should study previous attempts to do exactly that and pay close attention to who was attempting the rewriting. Now this one in particular was the work of an private citizen on his own private land. His heirs and the current owners of the land want it down, as is their right. It was cheap crappy statue to begin with and it certainly did not age well. Good riddance and no great loss.

Much of this has been mentioned already but I regularly purchase and shoot (when actually available) Laupua Norma Federal Hornady Less often but still always on my radar; CCI Winchester Remington Sellier & Bellot Aguila Fiocchi Most or my components for reloading are CCI, Hornady, Starline, Lapua, S&B, Hogdon, and Federal.

My Address is.... J/K I am over in Middle TN so not sure it would be worth it for either of us. I will see if I am headed to Millington at all during the holiday break. I have family there I might visit. If that is the case we might be able to sort something out.

In addition to what has been listed; Terry Walden Gun Range is in Manchester if you are on the southeast side of Nashville. Ok Corral in Woodbury https://okcshootingrange.com/ (again if you are on the southeast side.) I can't personally recommend either but plenty of folks like them well enough. I can recommend Strategic Edge which has already been mentioned if you don't mind the wait list. My wait was not that long, less than a year. There are also indoor ranges with some longer distances available. I know Royal Range on the west side of town has some longer bays and the new Outpost Armory Murfreesboro Range has 100 yard indoor allowing up to 50 BMG. It is a serious haul from Nashville but many of my coworkers are now going down to Dead Zero on the mountain in Spencer Tn. https://deadzeroshooting.com/ Supposed to be extremely nice and I would be going there on the regular if I was close enough.

Wish you were closer. I would grab this as a "just for the hell of it refinish job".

Wood is more susceptible to movement/shift/swelling/shrinking due to temperature and humidity than polymers, fiberglass, or carbon fiber. Carbon Fiber reinforced stocks are generally used when there is a need for rigidity, temperature stability, and light weight. Glass filled/reinforced Nylon is a common lower cost stock material choice. It is less rigid than carbon fiber but also less susceptible to temperature/humidity related instability than wood, a middle ground if you will. Wood is certainly more attractive but it is probably my last choice when it comes to a true tool that will be in the back of the truck, over my shoulder on a sling, in the woods, and propped up against a branch. It would also be my last choice if I was building a high precision/long range bench rest or match style gun. For the former I am going with a carbon fiber or fiber reinforced polymer for the later I am going carbon fiber or aluminum chassis.

I am an engineer and three threads is a common rule of thumb that works in many applications but it is a generalization. It does not take into account coarseness of threads (TPI) and major diameter. The 3 full threads rule of thumb is based on an 80% hold strength. There is a point of diminishing return where the added strength/benefit of additional threads is diminished for each additional thread. You absolutely want the muzzle device seated on the shoulder of the barrel. The shoulder is not concentric to the OD, in fact barrel OD is irrelevant unless you have a fit over / fit in requirement. The shoulder must be perpendicular to the bore axis. The typical GD&T call out for the shoulder is a max of .001 or .002 perpendicularity to the bore. Similarly the mating face of the muzzle device has a typical perpendicularity call out of .001 to .002 max to the internal thread depending on manufacturer. Concentricity must be held between the muzzle thread OD and bore axis as well as the muzzle device thread ID to both the external adapter thread OD and the muzzle devices bore axis. Again a quality manufacturer is going to spec/hold .002 to .003 max concentricity on those features. If there is a tapered seating surface for the engagement of the suppressor on the muzzle device it also must be held concentric to the muzzle device internal thread. Our call out for that is .002 max to the internal thread.

Ughh... How may turns are you getting from initial engagement to seated on the shoulder? Just based off you pictures and description I would want more thread engagement knowing how sensitive suppressors are to concentric alignment. If you have the option I would be turning a bit more thread relief and squaring that shoulder to the bore. If you don't have that option I would look at facing the back of the adapter but you are going to have to hold that nearly perfectly perpendicular to the internal threads of the adapter AND the external thread of the suppressor mounting datum. That is going to be a pain. I would seriously consider a different adapter and mounting configuration if you have the ability to shift directions at this point.

sent you a message

In the future you might find someone to loan you the gauges if you are doing a one off project like this. I have Go, No Go, and Field gauges for 6.5 but am over in Middle TN. If you cant find anyone to loan them to you you can always rent them. A bit cheaper than buying them outright. I have been leaning toward doing a similar project with the Savage Axis line since I don't buy Ruger.

So I have 458 SOCOM, 450 Bushmaster, and 50 Beo in an AR platform. I reload for all of those so availability is not a huge concern for me but for a someone who does not reload it makes a difference. 450 Bushmaster and 350 Legend are far more commercially available. If you are not limited to straight wall or never hunt in a straight wall state my heart would lean toward 458 SOCOM and stick with Tromix barrels and bolts. Don't bother going cheap on the barrel or bolt. You won't easily get it to feed, chamber, and extract smoothly without putting in work on the cheaper options. Reality and common sense says 450 Bushmaster though. A good bit of commercially available ammo including lots of hunting specific options. Good short range knock down power in a fun package. If you really like the round after shooting it in the AR there are more commercially available bolt action or conversion barrels available for a nice light brush/hunting bolt rifle. That is the route I ended up going. Now I don't shoot the 450 Bushmaster AR all that often and use my bolt gun in it instead.

Maybe something along the lines of what the Pistol Caliber Carbine shooters are doing these days. 16 inch barrel counter bored back to 12, 10, or even 8 inches. Gives a legal carbine length barrel with reduced weight and a balance point shifted back for easier off hand shooting. Maybe they wanted to lighten up that rifle and shift the weight back slightly.

Once she trusts him and lets him touch/pet her he could likely find out. There is generally a small incision scar after the dog has been spayed. Both of my females have had a small scar. Vets are not plastic surgeons and generally are not as concerned with scars when completing surgery. One of the best tricks I have seen/found for getting a stray/abused/or otherwise skittish dog to trust you and humans again is non attentive proximity. This means you bring the dog into a somewhat restricted space, say a laundry room or a smaller enclosed porch. You get a bowl of food at a meal time and place the food on the floor for the dog to have access to it. You then sit on the floor, allow the dog to eat in their own time, and do not approach or attempt to touch the dog. You start by sitting as far away as you can from the dog in that space and just more or less ignore them while they eat, bring a book. You are close but not attempting to handle or approach them. You do this over the course of days moving slightly closer each day. By the end of it you will likely be able to sit right next the bowl and pet the dog while it eats. It gets the animal used to your proximity at a vulnerable time and the animal learns that you are non threatening so they can relax in your presence.

I am and always will remain a fan of Kamados / Eggs for smoking. For all around use they really can't be beat. From Searing or cooking pizza on a stone over hardwood to low and slow smoking they just work. I grew up with them though. Back before the folks at Big Green Egg even began selling them Dad was using the clay versions that he bought in Japan. I was probably a teenager before I discovered the horror of dry oven backed thanksgiving turkeys. Dad always smoked ours on the Kamado. I had a cheap Akorn Chargriller Kamado for years and it worked well. I later upgraded to a BGE and even added a digital forced air fan with temp control. Even did ok at a few BBQ competitions over the years with two of the Akorns (they are more portable than the ceramics). I will probably try a pellet grill at some point to accompany the BGE but I will get rid of my my Kamado. In my opinion you can babysit a fire or you can put that energy and effort into the actual food being cooked. Selecting, trimming, brining, seasoning, basting, wrapping, ect. your protein rather than fussing over the fire and keeping ahead of temp swings. I would rather set a temp and let the cooker maintain it while I monitor the food. I equate it to an oven. I don't constantly change the temperature of the oven when I am baking something. I might cover, uncover, stir, or otherwise handle the food but seldom adjust the temperature.

I am sure I will have another one once the cost becomes "right" for me. I have long been interested in electric vehicles and built an electric motorcycle conversion years ago. It was a blast and outstanding for my short commute. I did not need it to run over 50ish mph and only needed a 20ish mile range so I was able to get away with a fairly light and small battery pack. I was able to achieve 62mph in the final iteration and pushed the range to about 45miles. Since my ride was 9 miles each way that was perfect. Now my commute is 24 miles and primarily interstate so an EV like that would no longer be viable. Something in the ~300 mile range capable of interstate speeds would be perfect though. I would be seriously interested in the F150 Lightning if the cost of a new truck (gas or alternatives) was not so astronomical. I just can't justify a $60k vehicle no matter what is under the hood. I could easily replace my gas car (2012) and my gas truck (2006) with the Lightning and serve 95% of my driving needs. I generally have to laugh at people who complain and resist technological advances. EVs are not being developed in a bubble where nothing else in the world is changing. Power generation will shift, probably slowly, but it will transition to cleaner options. Power distribution (grid) will expand, improve, and be replaced as it "ages" out. Charging centers/station options will increase. Do you honestly think the network of service stations pumping gasoline sprang up overnight when people were saying horseless carriages were a bad idea? There are still places in this country where it is a good idea carry spare fuel if you have less than ~350 mile range on a full tank well over 100 years after gas vehicles became viable. Battery technology has and will continue to improve. There are already efforts to reduce our independence on China/Asia for the elements and compounds needed for battery production. The further development of EVs helps drive all those improvements and changes it does not hinder them. I have raced cars and motorcycles most of my adult life. I love every aspect of speed, power, and the smell of 110 Sonoco in the morning. EVs take nothing away from my love of all things petrol and only add to my interest in vehicle design and development. I will have another EV one day, just not sure how long it will be.

Don't most of the pellet grills have a drip or ash cleanout? I know some of them appear to be a tray/box in the lower section of the body and some have a small bucket that hangs off the side (Pit Boss). When looking at pellet grill options I have been trying to figure out which models might lend them self best to an outdoor kitchen install. For example removing the lower leg sections and inserting the main body into a notch/opening in the cabinetry much like I am doing with the Blackstone. Those cleanouts or drip trays can get in the way of a clean install. Here is an example similar to what I am aiming for;Hamilton.jfif

Darn, wish this was closer. I have been wanting to try one of these out to accompany my Blackstone and my BGE. Where is the cleanout or access for cleanout for this model?

KS4BTO, but I haven't turned on a radio on in over a year. I keep meaning to install one of my mobile units in the truck or set my APRS system back up never seem to get around to it. Not a ton of local traffic and I am only in the car 40 to 45 minutes a day for my suburban commute so I don't have a great deal of need for it.

I could actually use the 30-06. Just putting back together a new to me sporterized M1917 and may take it deer hunting this fall. I reload but do not have any components or dies for 30-06 yet. Need to get stocked up. I don't want to step in front of Red though. I am down in Nolensville and work in Murfreesboro so Red might be a more convenient meet up depending on where you are. I am sure I have something I can dig out of the spare parts bin or ammo stash to pay forward.

That is inline with what I was thinking. His stated his shot was about 243 yards on his laser range finder. He claimed he took a wide 6 pointer at 270 yards a few years ago with the same muzzle loader. I am guessing he did not get the drop right this time and had lost enough energy/velocity that anything less than ideal shot placement was going to be ineffective at that range.

I am not that experienced with black powder or muzzle loaders so a quick question for those of you that are. With a modern muzzle loader like a CVA Optima or similar, 209 primers, and Triple 7 pellets (100 gr) what is the maximum safe effective range you would feel is appropriate for a humane/effective kill on a Tennessee size whitetail buck (8 to 10 point)? I am not asking for myself but as general knowledge. This came up with a conversation I had with a coworker about what sounded like an unethical shot that wounded a decent size buck. It sounded like he hit low and forward (not enough hold over for the distance) and possibly lost the energy needed to do the internal damage needed to bring it down. They saw hit, buck, and kick. They trailed it and even found some blood but not what looked like a critical amount. They looked for several hours apparently but had no luck finding the animal or more blood trail. I know not every shot goes according to plan and if you hunt a good bit it may happen but it sounds like this particular hunter should have had more patients and tried to get the buck in closer or passed on the shot. Side note, I have an old 45 cal H&R break action muzzle loader I acquired. I may get it out this Thursday or Friday to see if I can get some meat for the dehydrator and freezer.