Jonnin

  4 in the arm.  1 on the tip top of the head is a graze.  Another in the arm's shoulder/muscle/pec area.  2 that both could be fatal.  One in the head that was clearly the fatal shot, and one in the throat that likely would have done him in eventually if it clipped the serious neck blood vessels.  That is unclear from the info we have, whether that one nicked or cut the jugular.    So 4/7 would not have stopped him even if they had been from an elephant rifle.  5 and possibly 6 would not have stopped him from most handguns.      Looks like a convincing argument for shot placement to me.   Physics don't matter if you don't connect.    The safety slug is innovative.  Its not a giant leap forward, but its not a pistol shotshell like we use on rats either.  

There are about 2/ month on average if you count all the stuff that happens off-hours and "nearby" a school and so on.  Its about 1/month if you only count hours when students are in class (with a window for before/after school of say 1 hour).   And less if you only count the ones with actual (non suicide) injuries as many are just "guy with a gun" reports.     But still, I can't tie this to elections.  There were a bunch in january this year.   

  the difference between 800-1000 feet per second and 2500+ feet per second is significant in its own right -- more than doubled.   But that is not even a tenth of the story; since velocity is SQUARED for the energy equation.  800 squared is 640k.   2500 squared is 6250K.   10 times as much nearly.  Cut the mass in half (typical rifle bullet weights) and its "only" 5 times as much in the grand scheme.      On top of that antipersonnel rifle rounds are designed to flip and are generally quite long.  So the .22 caliber rifle makes a 1 inch hole because the bullet is flying sideways.  So it makes the large hole that people favor in their 45s.    Or, as others said already --- you can't really compare the two weapons.   

  well, almost.  Fast and heavy works great too.  For example a 44 mag with a 300 grain slug is without argument > a 45 acp in terms of "physics".   Its not that slow and heavy penetrate --- its that heavy penetrates, and non-magnum rounds with heavy loads are unable to go fast.   But more or less what you said -- fast and light are unimpressive for anything other than paper, where the light bullet shoots flat and costs less per go :)

  9mm  wins easily.   I can get 7 or 8 rounds of 9mm in a pocket pistol compared to a 5 shot revolver, and the auto is STILL smaller and easier to shoot (SAO trigger vs DAO)   There isn't a gnat's hair worth of ballistic difference in performance etc. 

my uberti break-top.

I don't know how well isolation will work vs  a really nasty one.   Eventually you will encounter it ....  and if no vaccine, could be in trouble.  

  IIRC ammonia will neutralize the corrosive residue -- windex is oft cited as a good cleaner.  But boiling++ water will dissolve it, flush it clean, and evaporate after, follow with oil.  Problem is the corrosive residue can get into the gun -- not sure about the k98 specifically but you want to read up online on how to deep clean it if you shoot that stuff.   I strongly advise to just buy or make some clean ammo and save the corrosive ammo as period/collectors ammo.    Deep cleaning the thing each time gets old if you shoot it much.

you can collect anything.   Yes, its a piece of history, but a small one.  They made several million of the things and a fair number are still more or less floating around the world.  The Russians alone captured several mil of them and rebuilt them (some idiotic take them all apart, then assemble as many working guns as possible scheme but they took them ALL apart and mismatched the parts for fun).   Being in good condition and un-stamped has value but it is still one of many.     Shoot it, don't let the nasty ammo destroy it.  It was made to be shot.  A lot.  Under extreme conditions.  You won't hurt it if you don't abuse it, and honestly,  shooting it more than a few times is usually enough for most people.  The gun can handle far more shots fired than your shoulder ever will.   and please.  Before you screw with it (cut on it, drill it for a scope, or otherwise do physical damage to it for whatever reason) find out more about it.  There are thousands, if not 10s of thousands of messed up mausers already, buy one for 100 bucks and butcher away on it.  Leave the intact ones be!

Oops, missed that you already bought one.   Congrats, glad you like it.   If you still like it after 200 you probably always will :)

considering a taurus already,  and talking about reduced recoil ....  consider the 22 magnum which has more shots in less space as an alternative.  7 rounds of 22 mag vs 5 rounds of 38...  there are merits to both ideas...    LCR just came out with a 9mm version.  That might save aggravation on ammo.  I assume you can fire 380s from it if you really want to cut down recoil; from hearsay the thing uses clips instead of a headspaced cylinder.    What to know about little revolvers.... the smaller it is, the harder to pull the trigger it usually is.   And the less weight, the more recoil.  I really dislike the light framed poly or ultralight metal framed guns in a small frame with a big boomer.  Even good 38s have a hefty recoil in those little beasts, and it makes practice not fun, which means many ppl won't practice enough with them.   I would think about getting an older heavy one if you dislike recoil, and just get a bigger belt when you carry it.    I have owned multiple taurus, smith, and ruger revolvers and all 3 are well made.  The taurus is a cheaper brand, a little rougher, but the one issue I had (manufacturing defect) was resolved easily and rapidly, very professional.  I personally feel taurus gets a bad name due to a very, very rocky startup when they first came into the market coupled with being foreign made and inexpensive.  I feel they now make a soild product for their price point --- you can do better, but they work, and I would not hesitate to buy another, but I would rather have an antique smith.    Personally I would never get a pure 38.  Get a 357 and shoot it with 38s and you have a better built gun capable of handling a wide variety of ammo.  Handloading opens up all kinds of mischief due to the huge variety of projectiles in this diameter -- you can easily go from 90 or so grains to at least 180,  in all sorts of shapes.  

  the triggers are what they are --- which are "duty" quality triggers.   They may have a little take-up in the DA pull (most often, from use/wear).  Usually, if not worn heavily, the SA pull is very good. Most of the negative comments are snobbery above actual issues -- I have had 6 or more 60's and 70s era smiths and none had a trigger I would call "bad" or "mushy".  Some were extra stout DA, and again, one or two had a little pretravel, but all in all about what you expect from a duty gun from the era.    the KT using oddball mags is still hit or miss, last I heard.  Check the KTOG for an update on what you can get.   

  you can't do that right now.   Look at your load data, memorize the 10 or 15 powders (or make a list of them for quick ref) that work with 9mm (for example) --- when you see one of them, buy it.   It all goes bang.  It may not all be the best possible bullet you can craft, but passing up a vat of AA #7  because you wanted win 231 or power pistol is silly when the shelves are bare. 

if it goes there and you get a blank page, that could mean that there is a problem between your browser, your add-ons, and the site.   The basic stuff to check -- flash player current?  Javascript current?  Tried it with IE?   To me it sounds like you are getting there but your PC has an issue that prevents parsing or display of the page. 

yes, it can have a cable.   It is this, or virtually this, they have a bunch that are extremely similar --    http://www.gunsafes.com/GunVault-Multi-Deluxe-GV2000C-DLX.html   I did ask her input, she wants it to be in the bedroom & accessible (meaning 4-5 ft off the floor and can walk to it and use it)  but details are up to me.  Lower drawers are out, she cant bend and flex like that easily, etc.    It would go in the typical middle "larger" drawer of a chest of drawers but its too tall for most others.  And it has to have the top clear.  And it is powered if she uses the keypad.  The keypad isn't necessary ...  she does not need in the dark instant access etc as no gun in it.  She may just use key for it.   The idea of making it into a nightstand with a cloth or something over it is also a good contender.   We have a spot between our chests of drawers where it could go for that. 

the safe is already selected.   Putting it in a drawer is an idea, though, thanks.   I may look at that.     If it burns we get a gold & potmetal ingot from the mess (if it gets that hot).   We will have far bigger problems if that happens. 

its a combination of issues.    aerodynamics... there is only so much you can do if you want to have air flow and at 80 MPH drag cuts gas mileage down and significantly higher gas mileage cars don't sell (trucks and other stuff, yes, but cars, no) when gas is $4+ per gallon.    also, there are what, 10 or less actual real brands out there?  No matter what is stamped on it, they share designs and parts and such to some extent.     colors go in and out of style but we have like 8 colors across most "brands" -- red, white, blue, black make up like 85% of what is on the road.    put them together and ... everything looks the same at a distance. 

my wife decided she wanted a small safe for her "junky" jewelry, and got one free off amazon (she made a *very large* medical expense on her amazon card netting several hundred bucks of free bonus money).       And now I have to figure out a way to mount it.   Upstairs and at a reasonable height (4 feet or so off the floor).  It wont mount to a wall because the door to the safe would open straight up or down --- its designed to go "flat".      All I can think of is to get a rugged nightstand type thing and bolt it to that, along with some effort to disguise/hide it.   But I am open to ideas. If I do the nightstand I may weigh it down and reinforce it so it can't be smashed -- they may still walk it out but I will make it as aggravating as I can.   Bolting to the floor... its a hardwood floor that 1) I would not care to damage "much" and 2) consists of many fairly small boards.     Thoughts?   The safe itself... I am not even remotely a tool / hand's on guy nor a crook and *I* feel confident I could get the thing open in 30 min to an hour, so keep in mind what I am working with here, which is just an aggravation to slow down a grab and run burglar (and more important, she feels better having it than just a drawer full of stuff). 

I have many guns with a black rear and white front.  Works great for me, though my CCW has glow in the dark dots and I am not about to sharpie over those. 

I don't carry revolvers but when I carry a low-cap auto I have more ammo.  I do not feel happy with less than 10 rounds.  

I managed to pocket carry the p-40 (identical to p11) for a while and the pf9 is thinner so it should fit even with a holster.  I did not use a holster (I have no fear of  pulling THAT trigger by accident; I could barely do it on purpose) but it will fit cleanly (with room to draw it) in larger pockets.  Its not going to fit in women's jeans or similar small pocket clothing -- its on the large side for pockets. 

when I problem solve, I likes to try the lease expensive fixes first.    Some things I might look at first would be drivers, as stated, and also settings to see if somehow the monitor is not going to sleep / power saver /something mode (you can test this by just turning it off and on, or if that is not responding, unplug it, wait like 1 min, plug it back in and power up.   Check for loose cables etc.   Also some computer dual monitor setups will shut down one monitor if you are doing something that is fullscreen dedicated.   I don't run duals much and but I have seen someone start a game for example and the second monitor goes black --- and there is a fix for this in the dual setup settings but its beyond what I know off the top of my head.   Even a movie won't tax a video card, to overheat one usually takes a game being 3-d rendered at a massive resolution (millions upon millions of pixels) at a high rate (60 times per second) while doing complex algorithms (lighting, fog/particles,  more).  You might heat up a 2-d only card with a movie, but it should not overheat unless the fan is out.   It is possible, though -- if the resolution total of both monitors is beyond the card's ability and the fan is out, it could heat but usually if they get that hot you lose BOTH screens, not just ONE.  ???  I dunno but it does not sound like heat to me. 

I have not lost one in a long, long time.  Lost one as a kid, found later but rusted to death.   Lost one at boy scout camp, a friend found it and I let him keep it.   Can't think of any others. 

If you want to shoot antiques often, you would be advised to make your own ammo.   This rifle has a bad rep for accuracy issues.  I don't know much about em but the sight picture is not the same as most other rifles ever made.  This is 3/4 of the accuracy issue I think -- the itallians had a different sight picture concept.  I don't recall more about this, maybe someone here or on gunboards can explain it.  Actually you would do well to look on gunboards for general info on your rifle, so many experts there, and thanks to oswald, the gun gets some attention.

  I forgot you were a seller.   It would be a good CYA to NOT recommend +P ammo for them in your situation.  I can't see the guns ever failing but people are idiots in general and odds are if you said it was OK someone would cram 50 boxes in one and break something (its harder on the guns, period, and in the best case it accelerates the speed of wear-out and chances of breaking things).   And that means you can't roll your own either.   So, um either buy some to sell if you sell ammo or mention a brand or two as I did and tell them "its out there, go figure it out for yourself".   I would answer the question of self defense.... "its an antique.  It will work, but its not your best choice; its more of a collector's item and target pistol.  If you really want it for self defense, you can use blah blah ammo in it but let me show you this RIA 9mm 1911...   ".