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Start Reloading 45acp ???


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I now have over 1200 pieces of once fired 45acp brass. Is it time for me to start reloading? Can i actually save money and is it worth the startup cost? I want to do it safely and would probably start with a hand press or single stage press. I can afford a high volume press but am interested in safety and precision not speed. Any insight and info would be appreciated. Thanks:)

PS: I have already read through Musicman's Sticky. I need personal experiences w reloading 45acp. Thanks

Edited by tacturtle
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eventually you will save money.

1200 brass at 15$ a box is over $350 and would buy you a quality reloader, such as the rcbs or lyman starter kits (has everything you need to get started nearly).

Reload that one time and you have more than 1/2 paid for the purchase. Reload the brass again and you are now saving money. The thing is time, though, reloading takes time and unless you enjoy it, you may prefer to just spend the money on ammo...

I am about where you are. Soon as I have about $500 to sink into it (i plan to get dyes for several calibers, and that means several poweder types, primer types, etc so my setup will cost more than just .45 setup), I will be starting it.

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I've just started also. I enjoy it so far and find the process fun. Sending your own round down to the target is a good feeling.

Bought supplies local. You should be able to knock these prices down by watching shows and sales.

230 gr. FMJ $20.00 per 100

CCI Primers $3.00 per 100

Powder About $2.00 per 100

So $25.00 a box of 100 not counting your brass. I used Unique powder at 6.2 gr.

I bought a Lee Kit, turret style. But I would second what Jonnin said and go up to a lyman or rcbs to start.

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I've just started also. I enjoy it so far and find the process fun. Sending your own round down to the target is a good feeling.

Bought supplies local. You should be able to knock these prices down by watching shows and sales.

230 gr. FMJ $20.00 per 100

CCI Primers $3.00 per 100

Powder About $2.00 per 100

So $25.00 a box of 100 not counting your brass. I used Unique powder at 6.2 gr.

I bought a Lee Kit, turret style. But I would second what Jonnin said and go up to a lyman or rcbs to start.

Mechanic made some good points here, but also keep in mind that when you find what you like, you can order in bulk and save even more. For example, I get my 230gr FMJ bullets from Precision Delta for $119 per 1,000 shipped - which comes out to $11.90 per 100.

Using the brass I already have accumulated, I have about $15.50 per hundred in my reloads. Pretty good when that's a little less than I'd pay for a box of just 50 rounds of factory ammo.

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Stay away from the "starter" single stage kits. Get a Dillon Preogressive if you can afford it. There is not anything more dangerous on loading on a progressive than a single stage. Buy once cry once. 45 ACP is not a high pressure rd and it's not a precision rd. I used to load 4.0 of straight Clays with mixed brass and Federal primers under a 200 SWC @ 1.250. It's all the accuracy you need. You can have the most accurate ammo around but if you're shooting it out of a loose fitting gun (slide to frame fit, bushing fit, junk bbl, bbl fit) ammo doesn't matter. Just my 02.

DaG

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I have been reloading for about 3 years. I started reloading when Obama was running for President. Fear of not being able to buy affordable ammo forced me into reloading. I started just wanting to reload ammo for .223 (supposedly a hard round to reload). I would shoot occasionally (4 or 5 times a year). Now... I love reloading. I reload for .223, 5.7x28mm, .45, .308, .270, and 30-06. In the past, I have reloaded for 7MM Rem Mag and .44 Mag (guns I've sold). I go shooting at least 26 times a year and have a yearly pass at the public gun range near my house. In my case, I'm not saving money reloading. I go shooting a lot more. I just recently acquired a .45. So I've just recently starting reload for it. I've put together about 2000 round of .45. It's really easy compared to rifle rounds. That is a great round to start with. Just be REALLY REALLY CAREFUL not to double charge (put two times the powder in the case) a round.

Reloading, to me, is a way to relax. You go in your reloading room (garage, bonus room, closet, etc), away from the grind of everyday life, and make something. When your done making it, you've got something that can be very accurate at great distances, or devastating up close, a plinking load, or whatever... Then you go test it at the range and see if it meets your standard. If not, you make adjustments. I like making stuff that you can't find in stores. I have everything from frangible .223 to armor piercing. The FN 5.7x28mm ammo is hard to find. I reload what I want. You can't buy subsonic 5.7x28mm ammo. I reload my own. Thats the nice thing about reloading, you can customize the load to what you want.

If you just getting into reloading I recommend this... Reloaders Reference v9.3x74r. Just do a google search for it. It has hundreds of loads for the .45.

John

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I started reloading 45acp about 40 years ago with a single stage RCBS press and still use it today. I've added a Dillon 550 to the relaoding benchabout 2 years ago. I'd get 1 or more reloading manuals and read them before getting equipment or supplies.

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I agree with the above posts ........... read, learn from others experiences and get the most you can out of reloading.

Like the aforementioned posts, I also find it very enjoyable ......... from finding brass at ranges, tumbling/polishing, to building my own loads ......... very relaxing and there's nothing better than sending your own loads down range!

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Stay away from the "starter" single stage kits. Get a Dillon Preogressive if you can afford it. There is not anything more dangerous on loading on a progressive than a single stage. Buy once cry once. 45 ACP is not a high pressure rd and it's not a precision rd. I used to load 4.0 of straight Clays with mixed brass and Federal primers under a 200 SWC @ 1.250. It's all the accuracy you need. You can have the most accurate ammo around but if you're shooting it out of a loose fitting gun (slide to frame fit, bushing fit, junk bbl, bbl fit) ammo doesn't matter. Just my 02.

DaG

I respectfully disagree. I started with a single stage Rockchucker Master Kit, and I later got a Dillion 550. I think a single stage is a great way to learn the process. I still load lots of ammo on my Rockchucker. I do load my 45 on my Dillon. I have been using 4.9gn of WST with a 200gn SWC for many years. 45ACP brass almost never wears out. I quit counting the reloads years ago. Just my 02.

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Having loaded on single stage and progressives for years, I was always of the opinion that you should start with a single stage. Well, I think I've changed my mind. With my Dillon Square Deal, I can load one round at a time, cycling it thru all of the stations before putting another empty brass in the fist station. If you are new to the game, go one round at a time until you have a good feel for what is happening at each station. Build some confidence, then go "progressive" with it. Dillon presses are great. If you are doing a lot of rifle cartridges, single stage may still be a good idea, but for higher volume pistol production, nothing beats a progressive.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest mbushell

Im new to reloading myself. I started loading 45 as my first loads. I, like you, had all the brass i needed. i mold my bullets from used tire weights. Powder and primer included it costs me 0.07/rnd to reload. Now consider it takes a total of 3hrs start to finish to load up a box of 50( that includes molding time), and i feel its worth it. Make no mistake reloading is a hobby requiring patience and precision. If thats not something you can do and 15$ per box for ammo fits your budget than go sell your used brass at the next gun show and forget it. If you like that sort of thing then by all means get a nice single stage press kit with everything you need and get started. Go to leefactorysales.com and you can have a starter kit for under 100$ by friday

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the .45ACP is a great place to start reloading a short straight walled casing with easy to handle components Having loaded thousands of them I can say it is an easy one to "experiment" with due to the many powder/bullet combinations from small game hunting to plinking to serious target work.. Don't let anyone tell you it isn't an accurate cartridge it can shoot one hole groups at 50ft. and 2" groups at 50 yds. with the right load/gun/shooter combination. get used to your ammo outshooting you once you get the hang of proper procedures...:cool:

Some General Reloading Tips:

Powder Measures:

When setting scale up cycle measure a few times to get powder and measure "settled in" just dump those charges back in don't bother to weigh them.. then adjust to proper grs. per your recipe and, as a check I like to throw 5 charges into the scale pan, reweigh that charge and divide by 5 you should get the same or close to your charge weight.. keeps you from making a mistake that can cause some wreckage of witch you will have to share pics here

Crimping:

Always seems to get folks riled up I treat everything handgun to a taper crimp... resize a casing, measure with your calipers... set taper crimp so you are at resized or slightly under a thou. or 2 ( expanding die bell is removed) you will feed better and accuracy will be excellent as you haven't over crimped by "turning die down "x" turns" or "to the shell plate and back off a turn" Keep in mind that over time you will form your own crimp thoughts.. Mine have been formed over 25 years of reloading and competition, Bullseye and IPSC where accuracy and reliability are KING.

Reloading will make any round a "precision" round once you find a magic combination the gun and shooter can use which brings me to a ....

Notebook:

RECORD everything you load through that machine.. settings etc. you don't want to have the "AhhhhCrapp" moment when you realize that load you just shot up at the range cause it was "perfect" is lost,..never trust your memory...

Oh yeah,.. only 1 set of components on the bench AT A TIME you don't want to load up 500 rounds for a match and then have the sinking feeling of "was that HS-6 or WW231 powder ? ?" one works the other is possibly a recipe for Kaboom-itis and we don't want scrap metal do we ?

John

USPSA L-926

Edited by LngRngShtr
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YOu won't save money....you WILL get to shoot more. Reloading is a money pit just like racing, golf, fishing, etc. If you enjoy it, it's worthwhile. You'll likely learn more about guns, ballastics, math, and become a more proficient shooter as a result of reloading, but you won't save money.

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Guest nicemac
Crimping:

Always seems to get folks riled up I treat everything handgun to a taper crimp... resize a casing, measure with your calipers... set taper crimp so you are at resized or slightly under a thou. or 2 ( expanding die bell is removed) you will feed better and accuracy will be excellent as you haven't over crimped by "turning die down "x" turns" or "to the shell plate and back off a turn" Keep in mind that over time you will form your own crimp thoughts.. Mine have been formed over 25 years of reloading and competition, Bullseye and IPSC where accuracy and reliability are KING.

John, are you measuring that .001 or .002 with an empty case run through the crimper, or is that with a bullet seated?

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empty case...used this method for IPSC/USPSA feeds slick.. remember TAPER crimp a roll crimp is different..

heavy magnums don't creep either..

my S&W M-52 is different but then again it is a S&W M-52 very mild crimp..will have to check notes..

John

Edited by LngRngShtr
specifying taper not roll crimp
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Just realized someone reading that might go cross eyed..

remember we are measuring OD of a resized casing..somewhere in the .467" area the ID for a casing I have on hand is .452 after resizing..final crimp OD is somewhere around .465" the projectile will cause some spring back and you might get some "coke bottling" effect a thinner area below the projectile above the web base where the brass is thick.. ie: cartridge looks wasp waisted and you may see if the lighting is just right a ring at the case mouth about 1/16th " or so..that's the crimp I wish I could take a pic to demonstrate these effects,.. the COAL for my 230 LRN are 1.270" but that's where my gun ( Series 70 Gold Cup top end) likes them

Since this is all relative to the sizing die you will want to take your own measurements,..in the end you can also take the barrel out of your pistol and "drop check" them to see if they fit without hesitation. then if they hang up you know the "why" is somewhere else, magazines,extractor tension etc.

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my S&W M-52 is different but then again it is a S&W M-52 very mild crimp..will have to check notes..

John

Those are amazing guns! Most people, and the majority of gun people will look at you like you're an alien if you mention a 38 Special semiauto pistol.

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Those are amazing guns! Most people, and the majority of gun people will look at you like you're an alien if you mention a 38 Special semiauto pistol.

And the setback to owning one is,.. those "in the know" know its you not the pistol that chucked the shot ! LOL

back to topic though,.. OP remember to follow up on this with pics of ammo and targets !

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Guest Lordelin

I have been reloading for about 2 years now. I started with the 45acp and a Dillon 650 press. Its a lot of fun and its a good way to keep your ammo in stock. I now load 45, 40, 9mm and .223 (that one i dont quite have down yet. its hard to do without making a mess, and am having probs getting the primers to seat consistently). I have found that its easier for me so far to load pistol rounds. I do like the progressive press for it. it was a pricey investment to start off with. but i dont think i would like it as much without it. and i know i wouldnt shoot my 45 as much without it.

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