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Any Plastic Modelers On Here?


E4 No More

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I haven't built a model in decades, and when I built them then they were usually used as BB gun/fireworks targets. I had rudimentary tools and thus obtained rudimentary results, so it didn't bother me that much to destroy them in a kid's vision of a war.

I have decided to take up building models again, but this time I want to do them right for display purposes. I purchased 1/350 scale Tamiya models of the battleships Yamato and Missouri with the intent of starting with the Yamato. I also got a model of an Ohio-class submarine that I want to build and present to a friend who served on the SSBN-734 Tennessee.

I have physical issues that will challenge my goals. The obvious one is eyesight typical of someone in their old age. I have magnifying glasses that I can wear to help with that. I also have essential tremors mostly in my dominant hand making it very difficult to paint fine details.

I'm looking for starter advice from experienced modelers. I have several questions:

  1. Do I need to clean/de-grease modern model kits before painting? Some say yes, but they seem to be old-schoolers that have done it that way forever. Other's say modern models do not require it.
  2. Do you use primer on the model? My thoughts are that every layer of paint will degrade the ability to see details molded into the model, so the less layers of paint the better.
  3. Do you paint the parts while they are on the sprue, and then paint again after cleaning up the marks left from cutting the part, or do you cut the part from the sprue and sand the marks before painting? Cutting and painting small parts seems would be very difficult when not on the sprue.
  4. Does modern modeling glue chew-up the paint and not adhere to the parts like they used to? I have super-thin modeling glue that I got because the reviews of the Tamiya kits say that the parts fit really tight requiring super thin glue delivered with what amounts to a needle. That's fine if it doesn't ruin the paint around the edge of the parts.
  5. Related to the last, do you glue the small parts to the main part and then paint, or do you paint and then glue? It seems to me that the former would just create obstacles to paint around when painting the larger part's details.
  6. If the parts do not fit that well, how do you address the gap(s)?

 

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Built a lot of models when I was kid, mostly WWII planes.  Some turned out great, others not so much.

Don’t know the best answers to your questions but some will come with practice and whatever works best for you.

I’ve had Memphis Belle and USS Arizona kits sitting in my garage for nearly 20 years that I first started and never got too far.  Think about getting back on those all the time.  Maybe this winter.

Since I’ve had those so long my question is what is the best tabletop lighted magnifying glass setup?  The kits are as I left them, my eyes not so much, lol.

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Northern Tool/Harbor Freight did have some clamp on style magnifiers with lights.  I use one in the reloading room at times when needed.  These have a limited reach, so not sure what length one would need for projects like this.  I'm sure amazon has various ones.  

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47 minutes ago, Garufa said:

Built a lot of models when I was kid, mostly WWII planes.  Some turned out great, others not so much.

Don’t know the best answers to your questions but some will come with practice and whatever works best for you.

I’ve had Memphis Belle and USS Arizona kits sitting in my garage for nearly 20 years that I first started and never got too far.  Think about getting back on those all the time.  Maybe this winter.

Since I’ve had those so long my question is what is the best tabletop lighted magnifying glass setup?  The kits are as I left them, my eyes not so much, lol.

I had something similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Magnifying-Dimmable-Adjustable-Reading-Workbench/dp/B085Q2N746/ref=asc_df_B085Q2N746/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416811141592&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3603424904208575143&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026083&hvtargid=pla-915134692705&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=90730999341&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416811141592&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3603424904208575143&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026083&hvtargid=pla-915134692705

It came in quite handy.

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I used to cut the parts apart and sometimes if it looked like it needed it, I would sand. I always glued the parts together and then painted. At least if several parts were gonna be the same color. It's hard to glue parts together when they've been painted. Unless you sand the surfaces that join. I've had parts that didn't fit together well and had to sand a little and keep trying it till it looked good.

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On 11/11/2021 at 12:32 PM, E4 No More said:

I haven't built a model in decades, and when I built them then they were usually used as BB gun/fireworks targets. I had rudimentary tools and thus obtained rudimentary results, so it didn't bother me that much to destroy them in a kid's vision of a war.

I have decided to take up building models again, but this time I want to do them right for display purposes. I purchased 1/350 scale Tamiya models of the battleships Yamato and Missouri with the intent of starting with the Yamato. I also got a model of an Ohio-class submarine that I want to build and present to a friend who served on the SSBN-734 Tennessee.

I have physical issues that will challenge my goals. The obvious one is eyesight typical of someone in their old age. I have magnifying glasses that I can wear to help with that. I also have essential tremors mostly in my dominant hand making it very difficult to paint fine details.

I'm looking for starter advice from experienced modelers. I have several questions:

  1. Do I need to clean/de-grease modern model kits before painting? Some say yes, but they seem to be old-schoolers that have done it that way forever. Other's say modern models do not require it.
  2. Do you use primer on the model? My thoughts are that every layer of paint will degrade the ability to see details molded into the model, so the less layers of paint the better.
  3. Do you paint the parts while they are on the sprue, and then paint again after cleaning up the marks left from cutting the part, or do you cut the part from the sprue and sand the marks before painting? Cutting and painting small parts seems would be very difficult when not on the sprue.
  4. Does modern modeling glue chew-up the paint and not adhere to the parts like they used to? I have super-thin modeling glue that I got because the reviews of the Tamiya kits say that the parts fit really tight requiring super thin glue delivered with what amounts to a needle. That's fine if it doesn't ruin the paint around the edge of the parts.
  5. Related to the last, do you glue the small parts to the main part and then paint, or do you paint and then glue? It seems to me that the former would just create obstacles to paint around when painting the larger part's details.
  6. If the parts do not fit that well, how do you address the gap(s)?

 

1.  No

2. yes if not using lacquer based paint

3. sometimes one sometimes the other

4. glue (melt the plastic) then paint.  

5. glue then paint... I do tanks so not a problem.  Planes require a mix.

6. sand and fill if required.


I recommend going into will pattison's back catalog of videos (https://www.youtube.com/user/barpfoto/videos)

and looking around and reading on here:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/scalemodelersCG/

Edited by Daniel
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I dont know how many brain cells I've lost to Testers model cement as a child. I'd also use it to build models on occasion 🙂

Recently, a friend started sending me aircraft models and model rockets kits to encourage me to build them after we were talking about childhood hobbies. It had me recently reexamine cements. Daniel provided some good resources, I'd also suggest taking a look at youtube for cement comparisons. I ran across a few that did side by sides of the various types including Tamiya thin cement that contrasts how they work, bond strength, and amount of plastic melt. Also differences in applicators

Generally you end up with each type, more critical on small scale and anything with transparent parts, like aircraft canopies. Modern cements have nice range, I dont miss the tendency for fingerprints to end up projects from that little bit you didnt realize was on your finger when old testers was the only option in most stores. Also the reason you paint after glue whenever possible.

Another thing that may be of interest, especially if you like space related models, are metal models. They dont need cement or paint and can be a good dexterity excercise.  https://www.amazon.com/Fascinations-Metal-Earth-Model-Apollo/dp/B07PNC9887

Have fun with your project.

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I built tons of models when I was a kid, mostly airplanes. They were all hanging from my ceiling with fishing line. I wasn't super good at it, but a good friend I met in college built museum quality models. Air brushed mud splatters, diorama displays, the whole bit.  The tricks I learned from him were what folks have already said about sanding, painting, filling, etc.  

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3 hours ago, GlockSpock said:

I recently got the huge itch to complete one of Stephen King's Christine. It was 20+ years ago that I last put one together, but it kinda sounds like a fun and potentially cheaper hobby.

Christine? That would make me think about it. LOL! Excellent book and darn good movie as well.

I built a lot of models in my early teens, then discovered I wasn't really good at it. That began my fondness for diecast pieces.

Never really cared for the Hot Wheels, etc sizes. I liked the detail on the 1/18 scale pieces. Back then the price was around 15 bucks. As the years went on, the quality of these metal diecast got a great deal better! So did the prices. 75-100 became the norm. Then the "limiteds" and specials for groups/clubs/events came into the picture. Not unusual to see 150+ on some. That was 10+ years ago.  

There are some really awesome diecast replicas on the market for those of us with little ability and paticence. But some unbelievealy high prices as well.

Corvettes and the 60s/70s muscle cares were my favorites. Got a bunch on disply in our den. A BUNCH more still in boxes in the attic. Got some really nice pieces, if I say so myself.

Need to have a big sale.

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