Lee Dies : I have a question

[tercel89]

I have the Lee 3 Dies set to reload 9mm . Do I need to go ahead and ALSO get the seperate Carbide Factory Crimp Die ?  Or will the 3 Die set be ok ? 

Edited February 5, 2015 by tercel89

[gregintenn]

You can do what needs doing with the 3 die set. The bullet seating die can be adjusted to where it crimps as it seats the bullet.

[musicman]

You'll most likely get by with the 3 die set, but I gotta say the FCD is great. No chance of a round that won't chamber. For me, it's worth the extra step.

[No_0ne]

I've set them up both ways, can't seem to tell much difference.  Then again, I don't really crimp 9mm, I set the dies to just barely remove the flare after seating the bullet.

[DWARREN123]

Never used a FCD, always got along very well with just the 3 die sets.

[Omega]

+1 for the 3 die set, I have only started using an fcd when I started reloading for my 300Blk and even there its a light crimp I use.  The seating die will usually give you enough of a crimp to give good neck tention.  

[wolverine]

I will also agree with everyone else about the crimp ( i have Redding Profile Crimp), I hope you have a case gage.

Edited February 5, 2015 by wolverine

[Jct1911]

Skip the FCD, it's a post fix to a pre isuue. I use the standard taper crimp die with all lee pistol dies except 45colt.

[Jct1911]

+1 for the 3 die set, I have only started using an fcd when I started reloading for my 300Blk and even there its a light crimp I use. The seating die will usually give you enough of a crimp to give good neck tention.

Pistol FCD & rifle FCD are two different creatures. The rifle FCD(collet crimp, no post sizing feature) is a great tool.

[CatsEye]

The three die set works fine. I've loaded close to 20k through mine with no problems. I only case gauge when going to a major match, other than that I don't worry about it.

[gregintenn]

I will also agree with everyone else about the crimp ( i have Redding Profile Crimp), I hope you have a case gage.

I've loaded since I've been big enough to pull a handle, and I've never owned a case gauge. Except for some shotgun shell problems, I've never had a problem with a reload not chambering, firing, etc.

 

Why does one really need a case gauge?

[wolverine]

I've loaded since I've been big enough to pull a handle, and I've never owned a case gauge. Except for some shotgun shell problems, I've never had a problem with a reload not chambering, firing, etc.

 

Why does one really need a case gauge?

To double check my work. I have been reloading only for a year and the 1911 needs a little extra attention

[gregintenn]

I wasn't being a smart azz, I am genuinely curious. I've loaded buckets of 45 acp ammo, and never found a need for a case gauge. If the dies are properly adjusted, the ammo they make works. What am I missing?

[Omega]

I own one case guage and thats for my 300Blk.  Since I am forming my own cases the guage makes sure the shoulder was formed properly.  For just reloading, I have the lee trimmer guage which takes care of the length portion, and I only use that after a few reloads. I don't worry about the rest of the measurements since I full length size all my cases.  Though case gages can be handy, they are not totally necessary. A good set of calipers can measure most of the critical points.

[gregintenn]

I own one case guage and thats for my 300Blk.  Since I am forming my own cases the guage makes sure the shoulder was formed properly.  For just reloading, I have the lee trimmer guage which takes care of the length portion, and I only use that after a few reloads. I don't worry about the rest of the measurements since I full length size all my cases.  Though case gages can be handy, they are not totally necessary. A good set of calipers can measure most of the critical points.

I understand if you are forming one case from another, and trimming to length. Otherwise, I thought the sizing die took care of the rest.

[BigK]

3-die sets work fine, but I always ran a FCD on my turret press. I liked having the seating and crimping to be separate stations, because it's easier to setup and I think the additional sizing the FCD does when it crimps to be worth the one-time expense.

If I ran a single-stage press, I might not want the added hassle of a 4th die, but I prefer turrets or progressives. YMMV

[tercel89]

Thanks guys . I am using the Hornady single stage lock-n-load press. I figure that starting out with single stage will let me understand how each Die works and really understand the principles of reloading. Later down the line I'll get a fancy dancy press. Keep the good information coming its all very helpfull :up:

[wolverine]

I wasn't being a smart azz, I am genuinely curious. I've loaded buckets of 45 acp ammo, and never found a need for a case gauge. If the dies are properly adjusted, the ammo they make works. What am I missing?

I did not take it that way.

Edited February 6, 2015 by wolverine

[Patton]

I find that the FCD is a luxury for the most part. If a firearm has a tight chamber like a Kahr you may need the factory crimp die. I also find that some cases, a .380 for example, can often buckle during belling or bullet seating. In which case a FCD can help make sure the case is within speck because it can slightly resize again.

[tercel89]

I have been looking at my factory carry Speer Gold Dot rounds in .40S&W . They seem to not have any crimp at all. If any it was just enough to make the case staright again and take out the flare from the expander die . Am I right ? It just seems that way when I look at them. Making me wonder if I even need much of a crimp at all when I do my 9mm's ?

Edited February 10, 2015 by tercel89

[gregintenn]

I have been looking at my factory carry Speer Gold Dot rounds in .40S&W . They seem to not have any crimp at all. If any it was just enough to make the case staright again and take out the flare from the expander die . Am I right ? It just seems that way when I look at them. Making me wonder if I even need much of a crimp at all when I do my 9mm's ?

No, you don't need much of a crimp. An auto pistol cartridge generally headspaces on the case mouth. All one needs to do is to remove the flare put on the case mouth in order to get the bullet started.

[Clod Stomper]

I've loaded since I've been big enough to pull a handle, and I've never owned a case gauge. Except for some shotgun shell problems, I've never had a problem with a reload not chambering, firing, etc.

 

Why does one really need a case gauge?

 

The only time I've actually NEEDED one was when forming cases.  Sometimes the shoulder may not set back far enough or the neck may be too thick.  Otherwise, when reloading factory brass, a full-length resize takes care of it.  

[BigK]

I have been looking at my factory carry Speer Gold Dot rounds in .40S&W . They seem to not have any crimp at all. If any it was just enough to make the case staright again and take out the flare from the expander die . Am I right ? It just seems that way when I look at them. Making me wonder if I even need much of a crimp at all when I do my 9mm's ?

It's hard to tell with the naked eye, but a 9mm isn't straight-walled, like most pistol rounds. They are tapered from .394" at the rim to .380 at the case mouth (when properly crimped). I've had success with reloads as wide as .383" at the case mouth and as narrow as .379". When I start reloading a new caliber, I find a brand of ammo that all my guns like and use those measurements as a starting point when I first setup my dies. That always gets me in the ballpark the fastest.

[tercel89]

Ok guys , I'm now down to my seating/crimp die. I just seated a bullet and it looks good. I just cant figure out how to post a picture right yet . But anyways , How do I set the crimp ? Some say on the Lee's die to set the seating first then some say to set the crimp first . I am flustered ! And Lee's instructions are not clear for me . I need some good ole Tennessee plain english talk :pleased:

[No_0ne]

My method, place an empty case in the shellholder, raise the ram all the way.  Screw the die in until it just touches the case.  Back out the seating adjuster, place a bullet in the case and adjust seating insert to your satisfaction.  Then screw the die in approximately 1/2 turn, more for a tighter crimp, not as much for less crimp.  I only take the flare out on 9mm ...