Omega

Are any of these quiet? The ones I have seen still seem to be quite noisy. I seen a video of someone hunting pig with a big bore air rifle and it seemed quite, more so than a silencer. I'm not at big bore yet, but am interested in taking squirrel and other vermin quietly.

It already gets submitted, but yes there is an element out there that won't care for it. I'm with you on the Constitutional Carry, I get tired of hearing about TN being "Free" and pro gun, pro outdoorsman yet have all these laws shot down at the starting gate.

Why, the no-buy list of course. Once a permit is pulled, by adjudication, then it's probably a safe bet they did something to put them on the list.

They are perfectly legal as is. But file a Form 1 and you can turn it into a legal silencer, or wait on the Hearing Protection Act.

Screw all that, why is there so much infringement on the 2nd when the 1st can be as, or more, dangerous than the 2nd? I don't support background checks, none period. Instead of hassling EVERY law abiding citizen when buying a gun, why not a list of those not allowed to buy guns such as the no-fly list? If they run your ID and you are not on a list, no background check and no fee. If you are on a list, by name, then a background check to make sure it is you that can't purchase one and not someone with your name. BTW, it should be by court order that your name appears on said list, not by some random organization and no adjudication. Hassle the criminals, make it a harsher sentence if they are caught using weapons for crimes, or in possession if not allowed to have one. At this point though, I do think it should be an option to have access to TICS, for those that want the extra security blanket when selling a gun in a personal transaction, but not made mandatory. And, instead of having us pay a fee to use TICS, it should be free because it is an infringement on our rights. If the state wants to infringe, then it should cost them to do so, not having us pay for that "privilege"

Yea, I seen it some time back. I knew about bluing steel, but I always thought if aluminum got dinged you were SOL, so was glad when I found this stuff. Before I just used black paint. This stuff works ok: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/707229/birchwood-casey-aluminum-black-metal-touch-up

Yea, I can get another weapon or three for that much. If I were to buy a machine, I'd probably get this one for $275: http://www.annealeez.com/

No, but it may work, but for blemishes I would try cold bluing instead, the lacquer probably doesn't do much for anti-rust.

For the skull, I'd use this: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/engraving-tools-supplies/inlay-color-fill-sticks/lacquer-stik--prod7778.aspx Easy to use and lasts quite a bit, been on mine for years.

Perfectly good way to do a pan full, the spinning method just lets you do more than a pan full of cases at a time. As long as the method keeps you from heating the base, you're golden. I first started that way back pre-www, a...shall we say, well seasoned, reloader taught me that little trick back in the 80s. Once you do a few k, you might even begin to just "know" by the orange glow of the case mouth and not even count anymore, at least not consciously.

I do it that way, get some 475 tempilaq or a tempilstik to mark just under the neck, when it starts melting, drop it in water to stop the heat from going further down. Count the seconds you are in the flame, do it a few times making sure the drill spins at the same speed, a bit slow, and you are in the same part of the flame. Once you feel you have the rhythm down, just count seconds. I suggest you use three or four expendable cases to get your rhythm down, you don't want to reload any that have the base annealed. And always start with the cases at room temperature, and dry. Also, do this again if changing calibers, and maybe even headstamps.

I use the 165gr gold dots in mine, they will do the job just fine.

Actually, that pic is not as bad as I have seen used to find the perp in other instances. I bet they get him, if someone knows them they will be able to ID them easy enough with these pics.

The thing is, if he is set on making you a victim, he will be more inclined to shoot first then take your stuff if he knows you are armed. If a person can be deterred, then just acknowledging his presence may be enough, that is being situationally aware not staring him down. If he is looking for an easy score, then he wants the element of surprise on his side.

Depends on the manner in which you expose your weapon, it may be seen as brandishing by some and an overzealous LEO may agree if called. Personally, I would not show my weapon until I was ready to pull the trigger.

Link? All I see are the abrasive and reciprocating blades close to that size.

Some guys on another forum were talking about the Harbor Freight chop saw many use to cut their brass cases with and one of the guys found a blade that leaves a much smoother cut than the standard blade that comes with it. The problem was that it was about $20. Another posted a link to a similar blade (both US made) that was cheaper but shipping made it as much as the Amazon supplied blade. So, I offered to foot the initial cost of 10-20 of them from Malco Saw and mail them out when I get them, then divide the total between us ($9.87 if 10 $9.17 if 20) then add actual shipping from me in TN, can't be more than a couple/three dollars to mail, and better if you want multiples as it will only go up slightly for shipping. I am cutting this close here (gave them until tomorrow midnight) but thought that maybe some of you may want to get in on it as well. Here are the links to the Malco blade and the HF blade, as well as the F&D blade for comparison. One guy that uses the F&D got about 21K cases cut before needing to replace the blade, second blade is still good but needs new saw. Original Blade P/N and specs Price if you were a distributor (does not sell direct): 15397-J156 2" blade .020 thick, 3/8 arbor hole, 24tpi, 152teeth $13.81 This one seems to be the same as the Amazon one $8.36 +$15.14 shipping (goes up to $16.20 after 12ea): http://www.malcosaw.com/ecom/product/11/1019/ Amazon $21.40 +shipping unless Prime member or over $35: http://a.co/0suyUSu Harbor Freight $9.99 (no coupon): http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-3-2-inch-cut-off-wheels-42805.html

At that weight, I'm guessing they're for subs right? I'd help but I too don't have a can yet.

I've seen a few starbucks that meet that criteria, but to be fair most of those have been in either liberal cities or by colleges and universities. As for the vet hiring, they don't rank as high as you think, according to this site they don't even rank in the top 75. http://bestforvets.militarytimes.com/best-employers-for-veterans/2016/

About 1 1/2" - 2" on cars here in Clarksville, I like it.

For the last few years of my military career I was a logistitian, so am used to such things but on a larger scale. We would rent numerous cars, trucks, forklifts (MHE) and hotels.as well as hangers. This always needs major coordination, specially since you're renting all available cars in the area and whole floors of hotels. We've had glitches, but usually worked out satisfactorily. For personal use, rent from the ad online, it is usually a discounted rate the rental agency doesn't have access to. And they will honor the rental contract, even if it means bringing a car in from other locations or giving you an upgrade. I always get unlimited mileage, don't get any insurance since many insurance companies cover rentals, USAA covers me, and if you pay with Visa, it also covers you, the card holder, but always check you are covered. Never pay for gas unless you will be leaving it on empty, and then only if you are pressed for time, prepay is decent sometimes. Always carry your own GPS, or use your phone, less expensive than theirs. Always do a good inspection, note any deficiency even if minor just in case. The airport is more expensive, but if you rent from an ad they will shuttle you to their location most times.

I use this one for SD practice, I made it so I can print it out on standard 8.5x11 paper then assemble it on the range with tape or staples. At a distance the vitals are hard to make out, a good thing, so you get an idea of what you hit with fast draw, off-hand, different positions etc. I do have a color version that shows the heart and aorta in red but I mainly stick with this one. I made some with a hostage/friendly in front of the threat for sniper/room clearing type training as well. But I only use those every once in awhile for fun, I am no longer in that arena. For hunting, zero, or load work up I just stick with any target that has multiple bulls and some type of grid on it, like the one below..I have various types in my range box, some B/W others color.

Yes...and No. You can build a rifle lower from your 80%, if you have a rifle upper without ATF approval. But, before marrying that lower to a short barrel upper, you need to have your tax stamp in hand. To be safe, I would complete the 80% as a pistol lower, then add the stock once your stamp is in your hands.

Mine is the first line when I go to "Edit Profile".

Nice camo, and nice setup on that bipod but hope those springs are good, that think looks like a shoulder buster.