1gewehr

I've got a few. MKI .455, MKVI .45acp, MKIV .38. I like them as they are robust, reliable guns. The MKI makes me want to get a Sam Browne belt and sun helmet and play at British Colonial infantry!

I'd recommend something long and thin, preferable in stainless so it's easier to clean. Maybe a mare's leg with plenty of Vaseline. Interesting way to carry concealed. Not too sure about how quickly you could get to it or how the horse would react. Certainly nobody would suspect you had a gun IN the horse. In the interest of putting it crudely, I'd suggest a mare.

Appalling that so few understand basic economics. If it wasn't for the ability to charge higher prices in times of scarcity, there would not be anything available for those who truly need it. We laugh at those who are desperately buying a gun and ammo when they suddenly feel danger. But if you TRULY need a gun and don't have one, wouldn't you be willing to pay a lot more than when there is no threat? The high prices also serve as a strong lesson that it is much cheaper to be prepared for an emergency than having to react and pay the higher prices.

I have Leupold rings on my .50bmg rifle. Never slipped.

Did you try the ammo in another gun? As said above NATO-spec 9mm typically has harder primers than normal commercial ammo.

Target Sports USA has Geco 9mm in both 115gr and 124gr for $160/1000. I've shot a bunch of the 124gr and it's clean, accurate, and has reloadable brass. Winchester white box is good ammo, but a bit dirty. Remington bulk pack is a bit underpowered, causing problems for some guns.

First rule of gunfights: Have a gun. Second rule of gunfights: Only the hits count. Third rule of gunfights: Physics cannot be ignored. Bigger faster bullets will usually stop fights sooner than slower smaller ones. Given similar shot placement. Having said that, while I usually carry a .45, there are times when I have to make do with a much smaller weapon. My little Keltec P3AT with SuperVel .380 is better than trying to poke them in the eye. It's all about compromise; ideally I would carry my .44 Automag. But in the summer it's impossible to conceal when wearing shorts and a t-shirt. For that matter, it's pretty hard to conceal the rest of the year, too!

I've been several times in the last few years, most recently in October. They keep 40-50 rifles on the racks there. A crew miles away is the Talladega shooting center. The pro shop there also keeps another 40-50 rifles in their racks. It's a CMP store also. It typically has higher-end Garands, though. Both stores re-stock the racks daily, so you never know what will be put out each day. The last time I was there, they had some 1903 and 1903a3 rifles in the racks. Very tempting! Remember that at the store you will pay Alabama sales tax, and that if you mail in your order you do not and shipping is free. But, just browsing the store and picking it out yourself is an experience. Do not overlook the CMP Specials if you want a great shooter at a bargain price! Completely rebuilt with a match grade barrel and new wood. Also, if you buy at the store, you get a certificate for range time at the Talladega shooting center.

For what you described, the value is in the receiver, bolt, and trigger group. The rest is scrap. If the receiver is a low number or otherwise special, the package might be worth $500. Otherwise, I'd say $400 is about right.

If your name is supposed to represent a quality product, then you have to keep up the quality in order to keep the reputation. Colt has been spotty about that. In the late '70s, they tried to cut costs and quality suffered for about a decade. I think it would have been worth the effort to keep the original Python in the custom shop, just like the SAA. Even if they lost a few dollars on each one, the benefit of having a top-quality iconic pistol would probably more than pay off in terms of reputation.

I wonder if Ruger is ever going to develop another firearm that isn't a copy of something else. It seems like the P89 series was the last gun I saw from Ruger that was all their own. I'm all in favor of more choices, and when Ruger does make a copy, it seems to be a bit better or less expensive than the original.

I've shot the Piney Mountain .22 tracers. They work very well. Only trace for about 100 to 150 yards, but how far are you shooting .22 anyway? Tracers do not cause fouling or unreliability. They are expensive for .22 ammo, but lots of fun.

Lage made them in both open-bolt and closed-bolt models for the m11/9 smg. The closed-bolt submachine guns are a different class for subgun competitions. Having a separate closed-bolt upper let's the owner of an M11/9 shoot in both classes with one gun.

Yes. There are several different types. The two most common are the Atchisson/Ceiner and the Air Force/M261/Olympic models. Black Dog makes both of those. I stick with the Atchisson models as they have worked well for me.

Richard Lage us a super nice guy who stands behind his product. The closed-bolt version of the MAX-31 had some issues with shooters at subgun matches. The 36rd suomi and Swedish K mags are well made and extremely reliable. The drums are OK and very slow to reload, but lots of fun.

CMMG makes an excellent drop-in conversion. If you look around you can usually find them on sale somewhere. As stated above, it's a five-second switch. Reasonably accurate and reliable. Nothing to change on your rifle. Designed by the brilliant Max Atchison in the late 70's. Every AR owner should have one.

I have .22 kits for several of my pistols. The advantage of the conversion is that all of the controls, feel, and operation are identical to the full-power set-up. I have yet to see any of the BB guns that really operate like the real thing. That said, I have couple of them and they are a lot of fun for backyard plinking.

The 380 has so little energy that any fmj is less than ideal. There are some very good self defense loads available now. The Winchester white box ammo is typically loaded a little weak, anyway.

As an addendum to my previous reviews, I'll add a bit more: FN SCAR17s - ergonomics and accuracy are excellent. Very pricey, and mags and spare parts will add to that. Has some battle experience with specops groups. But does not have years of proof testing that use by regular troops in combat would provide. MAS 49/56 - I HAD to toss this one in. Excellent handling, accuracy, and reliability if the Century monkeys didn't ruin it. The 7.5 round is comparable to .308 in size and ballistics. If you want a .308 rifle, be sure to test fire with NATO spec ammo as some conversions are badly done. Drawback is the 10rd mag and prices are going up. Has excellent combat results from some real $hitho1es around the world. I love mine, and if you like to tinker, FAL mags can be converted. Most newer rifles do not survive the kind of abuse that real combat use provides. If you want a plinking/hunting/ target rifle, get whatever floats your boat. But you said ' battle rifle', and I could not recommend a DPMS, AR10, AK- type, or anything else based on that request.

A few thoughts: FN FAL - has seen more combat than any other 7.62NATO rifle. Gas can be adjusted to work reliably with whatever ammo is available. Rugged, reliable, decent ergonomics and handling. Sights are not precision, but adequate for normal combat roles. Easy takedown and maintenance. Parts and mags are reasonable. M14/M1A - excellent sights, decent ergonomics and handling. Prices are a bit high for rifles, parts, and good mags compared to other choices. Likes good quality NATO spec ammo. Can be finicky with other ammo. Get a non-wood stock so humidity changes don't affect POI. G3/Cetme/HK91 - reliable and accurate. Adequate sights HK style is better than Cetme. Very reasonable parts and mags. Ergonomics and handling of a 2x4. Likes hard brass, soft brass tends to stick in the chamber. Very inexpensive parts and mags. BM59 - a good alternative to the M1A. Rifles and parts are reasonable right now from Classic Arms. Mags are a bit pricey but VERY well made. Likes NATO spec ammo, but users report good results with heavier bullets too. Get one with the tri-compensator. Nothing else has a decent combat history except the original 1960's AR10. Those are very pricey and spare parts are almost non-existent. FYI, a very nice Portuguese model just sold at auction for $9000! Handle, and if possible, shoot, several to narrow down your choices. All of the above have worked well under combat conditions.

For a first handgun, I recommend a quality .22. It's not as cool as a Glock or other 9mm. But it will work until you have the essential experience under your belt. It's hard to beat the Ruger automatic for price, accuracy, and reliability. If you feel self defense is the primary reason for getting a handgun, go with the Glock 17. It will be easier to learn with a full size pistol, and the Glock is as accurate and reliable as anything out there.

My fairy godmother must have pushed this one through: Mailed Form4 on July 1st. Received approved Form4 on September 10th. Both in 2019!!! I think that's some kind of record. Miracles do happen.

If he wants a 1911 .45, get a real 1911 or 1911a1. The later series 70, series 80, and 1991 are not in the same class for quality and reliability. For a less expensive option, go with an Argentine m1927. Many were made by Colt, the rest on Colt machinery in a factory set up by Colt in Argentina. Parts are completely interchangeable with a Colt 2911a1.

Wiselite is notoriously slow to respond. You might search for a striker for the semi auto Sterling as I believe it might be the same. Worst case, find a friendly neighborhood machinist to make one.

Some years ago when I was still entertaining dreams of an African safari, I got an Eddystone Enfield rebuilt in .416 Rigby. That action was as slick as frog snot!!! Eventually, I sold it to a friend who really did get to take it on safari. But, sometimes I wish that I had just loaned it to him instead of selling it. That was one really sweet rifle!