Dolomite_supafly

That is awesome. Roller guns are so much quieter than blowback or gas operated guns. Here is the last time I touched an MP5.

Ok, I have learned A LOT about 50 BMG rifles over the past year. Avoid the Safety Harbor, Zel Custom and any other rifle built like those. The reason is they are not built for accuracy but more importantly they have a propensity to explode. I owned one last year and it required hand loaded ammunition to be accurate. So if you see a 50 BMG "upper" with the hand guard held in tension with a nut don't walk away but run away. If accuracy is your #1 priority avoid the Barrett semi autos. They are not known for being accurate. Fast shooters, yes, but accurate shooters, no. At least not something you could use to place well in a match. Barrett, either single shot or semi auto, are not "budget" either. If accuracy is your #1 concern the cheapest gun that WILL win you a match is the Spider Firearms Ferret 50. Although it looks like the other unsafe "budget" 50 uppers it is built completely different. The barrel is free floated, unlike the other "budget" 50's. It uses a three lug bolt rather than a two lug bolt. It also uses Lothar Walther barrels. BTW, Spider Firearms Ferret 50 holds the world record 1,000 yard record. They also ALWAYS place well in matches. The only drawback to the Ferret 50 is the lead time but that depends on when you order. If you order at the end of a production run your wait could be very short but catch them between production runs, like I did, and you will be waiting. I am currently about 9 months into my wait. BTW, he WILL guarantee the accuracy of his guns. He will guarantee the gun will shoot MOA with cheap surplus, 1/2 MOA with 750 grain Hornady Match and .2 MOA with hand loads. If it doesn't shoot he will fix it under warranty. BTW, the owner is on the board of a national 50 BMG organization and is very involved in the 50 BMG competitions. You can have a match winning upper built for under $3K and a complete match winning firearm for under $4,500. Their http://www.ferret50.com/ If I get mine before you buy yours you are more than welcome to shoot mine. It is a Ferret 50 with a 24" Lothat Walther barrel. Mine is an upper for a AR15 lower but I will be building my own all steel dedicated lower for it. I am having it threaded for my Armalite AR50 brake to help tame some of the recoil.

You MUST be a licensed armed guard to protect persons or property in an official capacity and that sounds like exactly what you are doing. It makes no distinction whether you are doing it for a friend or a complete stranger. Also, slapping someone is an assault and unless they tried to harm you first. Slap someone first and you will go to jail for it. Even if someone is trespassing you cannot touch them unless they resist your request to leave the property. But even so if I had someone refusing to leave my property I would let LE handle it instead of risking an escalation. And under no circumstances should you draw your firearm unless you ARE in imminent danger or being seriously hurt or injured. Drawing a firearm without it could get you charged with aggravated assault, especially if you point the firearm. Law Enforcement can get away with it but a civilian will learn a very hard lesson if they draw their firearm without justification. What kind of even is it that you are expecting drunks and meth heads? Sounds to me like a really bad idea to be around anyone like that. Are you a resident of Tennessee? Your IP comes from New York. We have had a rash of northerners coming here asking odd questions, hoping this isn't the same.

I absolutely loved my SR 22 pistol. Reliable, lightweight and accurate. Double action and single action with a very nice single action trigger. I cannot say one bad thing about the SR22 but I will say this. If you get one get one with a threaded barrel if this is going to be a end of times gun. That is because in a time when the rule of law is gone nothing says another human is around like a gunshot. So if this is a end of the world gun I would make sure it had a threaded barrel so you can make a silencer for it. Mine would also cycle CCI Quiet 22 ammunition with 90+% reliability with a silencer. It was so quiet all you could do was giggle. My second choice would be an all steel Ruger MK series gun or a standard Ruger 22/45 with a threaded barrel. I am not sure I like the Lite because the threads are aluminum, or at least were. I, personally, do not like the idea of aluminum silencer threads.

I have several of these. https://usa.caagearup.com/cbs-collapsible-ar-buttstock If you can stand the color here is one for $15.50. https://usa.caagearup.com/cbsmt-collapsible-ar-buttstock

I consider a chronograph as important to reloading as the press, dies and powder. I have yet to find a recipe that matches the real world. Most times the velocity is well below the published velocity. It is completely possible to have a gun that cycles but the velocity is so low that the bullets are not stable and keyhole. A chronograph will tell you the actual velocity, not the velocity listed in the manual that is never right. If you use jacketed load data for cast bullets you will be safe. That is if you have a 115 grain cast bullet you can use 115 jacketed load data without issue. The reason is cast bullets do not generate the same pressures as jacketed is because the cast bullets are softer. Cast bullets can also be significantly oversized and still be safe. I have shot bullets that measured .313" in a .300/.308" bore without issue. Matter of fact I used the same load data as a correctly sized bullet and had no signs of pressure. I use the chronograph to work up loads for accuracy because it saves me time and money. I shoot across the chronograph first, before I ever fire at a target. I work up loads based on velocity and standard deviation. I look for the loads with the lowest SD. Then I use those loads to further tweak the accuracy of those loads. A load that has wild SD numbers is rarely accurate while most loads with a low SD numbers tend to shoot better. Using this method I have a pretty good idea of what loads are going to shoot the best even before I step foot on a range.

Make sure you remove some material from the spring. I normally use the setscrew as a guide to know how much to take off.

Take glow in the dark pigment and mix it in with clear two part epoxy then add it to your sights. Works great and with a charge it is brighter than tritium for at least two hours then a quick burst of light from a flash light and it is bright again for hours.

Got a link, some of us can smell a scam a mile away. If you have any pictures you can do a Google Image Search. It will give you matches as well as close matches as well as the dates and websites the pictures are posted on. Most scammers pull random pictures off the internet so for me this is the first thing I do. I immediately ask for pictures so I can do a search. If the images come up ANYWHERE else I walk away. And NEVER put up WTB ads on national sites, all you will get are scammers.

If you need any help I can PM you my number.

What you do is figure out the length of the bullet listed in the manual. Normally you can find them on the manufacturer's website and if not call them and ask. Measure how much of sticking out of the case and subtract that from the total length of the bullet to determine how much of the bullet is in the case. Now measure YOUR bullet and seat it deep enough to leave the same amount of space for the powder. I know it is a pain but sometimes being safe is not the easiest way.

I will move it down into general to get more eyes on it. At the bottom of the 4473 it asks if you are a resident alien so I cannot think of any dealer not catching that part unless the purchaser lied on the form. BTW, my wife is a "resident alien". She carries a gun and has bought a bunch a few. She has had several dealers refuse to sell to her because they thought she needed to be a citizen. After we explained she didn't need to be they let her make a purchase but only after a call to someone else to try to figure out their role. But most dealers she has dealt with eventually figured it out and sold her a gun. I would avoid big box retailers like Walmart because the people that work there don't want to put in the effort and will refuse in a heartbeat if they think their job is about to get harder. I think the biggest obstacle is getting your stay here classified as a permanent and not a temporary one. I don't think you can buy any firearms while here on a "visitors" visas.

Another way to polish the chamber is to get a 45 caliber bore mop. Attach a section of cleaning rod to it. Chuck the rod into a drill. Saturate the mop with some sort of metal POLISH like Flitz. Stick it in the chamber and run the drill for 10-15 seconds at a time checking often. you don't want to remove material, just polish what is there. But if it were me I would let the company fix it.

I would like the information as well. My biggest thing I would like to learn is mushrooms. I normally stick to things I know so all I have been cooking up has been morels but would like to recognize a few more that are safe and easily recognized. Thanks

https://www.geekprocamera.com/shop/

Here is the beginning of mine. It is a home built Caterham. The passenger tub will be skinned in aluminum and I am debating on either leaving the rest completely open for everyone to see or skinning it. I am seriously considering skinning it in canvas, like a WWI plane, then use resin to add some rigidity. I was hoping to have it on wheels today but not sure I can get that far ahead. The frame weighs ~120 pounds and it should weigh less than 1,300 pounds with me in it. And with ~300RWHP from a 2.3 turbo it should do 0-60 in under 3 seconds and the quarter in under 10 but this isn't being built for straight line blasts but for going around corners. It will spend a lot of time on the Dragon when complete. It will have a warmed over 2.3 turbo from a 1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe. I will probably end up building my own intake at some point. I plan on building the fuel tank unless I can find an off the shelf one that will fit. It will have a full race built C4 auto with Kevlar bands and clutches. The rear came out of a 1998 Mustang and has 2.79 gears which is about perfect, 1st will get me to ~55 mph, 2nd to ~90mph and 3rd will get me to ~135 mph. For wheels I am using some 17" Cobra wheels. I will be using PimpX as the ECU so it will be completely tunable and allow me to setup some sort of traction control, launch control as well as map how and when the turbo kicks in. Turbo cars are normally kind of peaky, that is the power comes on strong and fast, so with a digital boost controller the ECU can flatten the power band some and make it feel like a normally aspirated or supercharged car. Power steering will be an electronic unit from a Saturn Vue. I have an electronic controller to allow me to tune the steering resistance. I should be able to let the ECO tune the resistance according to speed so when I am pulling into a parking spot there will be no resistance while at speed it will offer some resistance to prevent over corrections. It is as bare bones as I can get it.

The only thing full auto is good for is clearing rooms and a grenade does it better. Belt fed, crew served weapons are for suppressive fire but the individual weapon is pretty useless on full auto in most cases. If I had to choose between only full auto or only semi auto I would take semi auto because it is much easier to shoot accurately. Our military has flirted with three round burst for decades. The problem is the rate of fire is too slow to improve hit probability. Speed up the rate of fire and the chance of hitting increases because the weapon moves less during the burst. One of the best burst guns on the planet is the AN94 because the first two rounds are fired at an astonishing 1,800 rounds per minute. After that it reduces the rate of fire to a more sedate 800 rounds per minute but it does suffer some reliability issues.

I still like Team Speak. It is much easier to use and from an admin point of view Team Speak is a lot easier to manage. I use Team Speak every single day. You can easily assign groups in TS as well as set admins. I have used Discord but prefer Team Speak over Discord.

https://forums.1911forum.com/

I carried a 22lr loaded with the 60 grain Aguila SSS rounds as my last resort pistol. Even out of a 2" barrel they will penetrate ~8" in gel and tumble along the way. It was not the best thing to carry but it is way better than a pointy stick or club.

The Nikon should be fine. Most budget scopes will hold zero just fine so long as you do not go too cheap. I always tell people buy if they have to buy a budget scope buy the one with the least amount of doodads and gizmos. All those doodads and gizmos cost money so if the scope has them the manufacturer has cheapened the scope somewhere else. They might use cheaper adhesives and the thing falls apart or they might use cheaper glass so the scope isn't as clear as it should be. They use cheap materials that make the scope less durable. They might be purged but they often leak down over time. There is a lot of things I have seen with cheap scopes doesn't happen to budget scopes. So if you MUST buy a budget scope make sure it isn't a cheap scope. Anyone should be able to buy a decent budget scope for under $200 just make sure it doesn't have a lot of features.

I am about 99.9%, but not 100%, positive they can be mailed in state.

If people want to try Team Speak I can set that up really easily. Matter of fact I have a few friends who already run a TS server that we could try out first.

I am considering hosting a Team Speak server. For as many people as we generally have in chat I can get one for a few bucks a month that will cover everyone. It would require a download but after that it really is a simple program and it gives you voice as well if you want to talk instead of type. Definitely need to find something else before too much longer.