bruiser09

I had a thought on how to construct a relatively simple but theoretically effective cage. First, find an ammo can that is roughly 30-50% larger than the items you want to protect. Next, construct a box from copper or aluminum that is about 1” smaller than the ammo can in height, length and depth. Think of a simple shoe box type of construction having a four sided bottom and snug fitting top. Apply one to three lines of expanding foam to the inside bottom of the ammo can. Press inner box into foam and hold until the foam is firm enough to hold inner box. Apply foam between walls of inner box and ammo can leaving room for inner box lid to fit. That’s it. This box does not have to be grounded. note: searching Amazon “aluminum box” offers several ready made options. Something like this could be slipped into the ammo can using a layer of bubble wrap. If you are curious, the reasoning behind this construction method follows: An EMP, or electromagnetic pulse, has a wide frequency spectrum ranging from VLF (very low frequency) to UV (ultraviolet). As such, the design of an “EMP Cage” would need to protect from frequencies spanning from about 3 Hz (Hertz) to 10 PHz (Petahertz), or just beyond visible light. The properties of the shielding material need to be just as varied as the frequencies they offer protection from. Different metals offer protection at different frequencies. Low frequency magnetic fields require a metal of more ferrous properties (or that have high permeability) Steel works for lower frequencies with lower carbon steel (often referred to as “mild steel”) being more effective because of it’s higher permeability and saturation point.. Copper is widely used over the RF range. Aluminum also works in the RF range but usually needs to be about twice as thick as copper for the same level of affect. The layers of metal are isolated to minimize galvanic decay. The corrosion is real but minimal and is only an issue over time.

Thanks, I look forward to seeing what you've done.

Drilling the tool (spanner)? Yes. Probably require a cobalt bit. Drilling the barrel nut? I wouldn't do it, wouldn't advise it. In a pinch, I'd use vice grips and a patch of leather on the jaws to protect the surface, being carful not to apply so much pressure that the nut is damaged. BTW, if you decide to try the strap wrench, maybe you could apply a steel hose clamp to the nut first, to give an oblong shape for better bite. There is a kind of strap wrench that uses a bicycle chain. About $23 at Home Depot, made by Crescent called a chain Wrench. Go figure.

A die handle with right angle threaded bolt might work if you found one close enough to size, and the bolt was long enough to grab the nut.

The pitch of the teeth looks too fine for a common spline socket. I'm counting 42 teeth there? You might be able to improvise a crows foot socket as you don't really need every tooth engaged. I did a quick CAD drawing showing how the outside diameter of the nut need only intersect at strategic points, i.e. I'm showing 4. If you trace the nut on to a flat piece of sheet steel, then drilled 4 holes to accept roll pins the diameter of the pitch, followed by drilling the outer diameter to intersect the 4 holes you could then grab the steel with Vice Grips and give it some serious torque. (30 to 80 ft/lbs according to the net) If you could cut the 3/8" square you could use a real torque wrench. Sorry to be lengthy, but it's an option.

I'll take it. PM inbound.

Looking for the straight barrel, faux suppressor ok. I know these are readily available online, but I thought I'd check here to see if one of you is ready to part with one. Thanks

I'll take it. PM incoming. Cheaper to ship, huh?

Actually sold this time. Thanks

I'll take it. PM inbound.

Wow. Very nice.

Man! How did I forget to add 300 Black?! I have actually been criticized for owning 300 Blk. Limited use and all. It was my first AR. I felt like it was an ideal home defense choice and it got my first suppressor. I prefer it in pistol length and have 2 set up for CQB. I'm guilty of spending a good bit on accessories and I'm glad to see that market is growing for the AK.

Amen. Actually, with the fireball from the muzzle, everybody knows!

I like the variety of posts here. For me, I was looking for what I hoped would be the right truck gun. 7.62x39 had comparatively unique and compelling ballistics. This is what I found: What makes the 7.62x39 so great to me is that it holds it's energy better than other rifle calibers when fired through shorter barrels. You can still have muzzle velocities around 2000fps through a 7.5" barrel. That's impressive. I own the IWI Galil ACE pistol and I love it. I bought a Draco pistol as well. You made a great choice and I'll be curious to hear your update after you take it out.