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Sharpening and Protecting Suggestions


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First I'd like to ask for everyones opinions on knife sharpeners. I'd like to purchase a stone/sharpener, and learn how to use it well. I'd like it to be able to put a razor edge on the knives I own, as long as I am doing my part. I'm open to stones, systems, etc. If it is available on Amazon, that is great.

My second question is what is considered the best "food grade" oil for protecting/lubricating your knives? Is mineral oil the best?
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I have a Smith's system which works reasonably well. I don't use it often enough to be what I'd consider good at it. Wish I was. The Lansky and Spyderco systems work well too. Dad can put a razor edge on a pocket knife with just a whetstone. Apparently I didn't inherit that skill.

Most all of mine are some grade of stainless so I don't use any particular oil. We used to have a few carbon steel kitchen knifes, but they got used so often corrosion was never a problem.
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I was a mineral oil addict. I have found; however, that often times water works just as well, as long as your sharpener accepts water as a lubricant. I have a Smiths diamond sharpener and it works well with water. My first preference will always be a good 3 stone system, but they are often expensive. The smiths cost $15 and works almost as well.
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[quote]I was a mineral oil addict. I have found; however, that often times water works just as well, as long as your sharpener accepts water as a lubricant. I have a Smiths diamond sharpener and it works well with water. My first preference will always be a good 3 stone system, but they are often expensive. The smiths cost $15 and works almost as well.[/quote]

Forgive me. I was talking about mineral oil on the knife as a rust inhibitor/lubricant in place of something such as Rem Oil or CLP. Often times in the past I've placed CLP on my knives. It works very well, I just don't want to eat the stuff.

I am thinking I will probably buy a cheap whetstone and give it an extended try. I have an old Case Sodbuster that should be easy to sharpen and should be a good "tester".
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[quote]I was talking about mineral oil on the knife as a rust inhibitor/lubricant in place of something such as Rem Oil or CLP.[/quote]
Oh, I got ya. Mineral oil works for that too. Thats what I use on my butcher knives. And you can eat it (I don't suggest that).
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CZ:_____________
Check this out when ya have the time. t's well worth the $20 or so dollars. http://www.amazon.com/Razor-Edge-Book-Sharpening/dp/096660590X . After reading this book, i dont bother using a sharpening oil or water on stones. As for oil, i use anything available; especially the moisture displacing stuff like CLP.

Hope this helps.
leroy
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I am also quite interested in the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Anyone used one of these? It is my understanding that they are great for maintaining a profiled edge, but not so great for actually profiling an edge.

 

They can be used to shape an edge, given enough time and effort. LOL Me, I am too lazy to do that. If my knife needs re-edged, I use the lansky. If its a touch up the Spyderco sys works great. I have used mine alot this year at my sons school, where I volunteer. Let me just say Hopewell Elementary has the best maintained scissors in Bradley County. LOL

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I have two of the Lansky systems - the 5 stone deluxe kit and the 4 rod turnbox. They both work very well, with the turnbox being fast and efficient for touch ups.

 

I use mineral oil to lube and protect because it's cheap and it does the job well.

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I use a Lansky and/or crock sticks, and whatever oil is handy, usually RemOil.  I use vegetable oil on my kitchen knives.

 

I've given away lots of wicked-sharp knives at Christmas, and will again this year.  I warn people about the edge, but it doesn't always help.  :D

 

What was it Hattori Hanzo said in Kill Bill 2?  "If on your journey, you encounter God, God will be cut".

Edited by enfield
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I have an old LeRoy system.  I think it predates the Lansky 2 stone system.  I've had it forever (I bought it in the 80's).  But I just use the "stones"  I don't bother with guide or angles.  I lay the blade down at the angle I think is best and lightly push throw the "stone".  As long as it's good steel, I seem to always get a razor sharp edge.  I use the oil that came with the kit.   

 

The easiest knives to sharpen seem to be my Mora's with the scandi grinds.  They sharpen right up, scary sharp!  The hardest knife I have had to sharpen is tied between my old Custom Taylor made Puma Style fixed blade in surgical steel (very hard steel, it's also in my avatar) and a recently purchased Colt Small Clip Point fixed blade like this one here.  http://www.knifecountryusa.com/store/product/138674.138703/colt-knives-424-clip-point-fixed-blade-knife-with-checkered-black-wood-handles.html .  It has taken me a while to get it to where it will take the hair off my leg.  I finally got it to that point this weekend.

 

WOW!  Every so often I go up on EBAY and try to find my old Taylor Custom.  Well today is the day!  I found it!  Here it is. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Taylor-Field-Camp-Survival-Fighting-Knife-Made-in-Japan-/251145849651?pt=Collectible_Knives&hash=item3a79758b33e

 

I have the original sheath though.  I got this at a Knife Store on the second floor of East Town Mall back in the early 80's.  It was being sold at a discount due to some some scratches on the blade.  I've carried this knife in the field throughout my Army days and during Desert Storm. 

Edited by Moped
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I used to use the Smith system, which is a cheap Lansky knock-off, IMO. I quit, because they tend to scratch up the spine of my knives if I'm not very careful.

I'm glad I read about the Spyderco Sharpmaker on another thread here. From the first time I used it, I loved it. I think it's the easiest and fastest thing I've tried.

I don't know about reprofiling an edge with it, but I've sharpened dull knives with it and touched up already sharp blades. I think it does a great job and it's nearly fool-proof.
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