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Send a patch down your Mosin every so often.


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The other night I was cleaning my Glock, I know, Why? Anyway since I had all my cleaning gear out I thought about running a patch down my 91/30 and M44. The last time I cleaned them months ago I "assumed" I scrubbed the crap out of the barrels, used solvent at first with a brush, then shot a lot of Rem Oil down the barrels as to wash them out and wet patched them several times and finally got white dry patches from them. I then lightly oiled a patch and sent it down the barrel for storage. Well when I ran a wet patch, Rem Oil down the barrels of both it came out a little brown. A little black doesn't bother me that bad but I don't like brown at all. So, they got scrubbed again the same way. Now my MAK90 and 10/22 and 30-30 came out clean. Now getting to the subject of ammo, I get these Shooters catalogs and they sell some Wolf ammo and a few others that advertize as non-corrosive but it's a lot more expensive than the salty surplus stuff. Anyone know of any surplus 7.62x54 that isn't corrosive that wont break the bank? I guess if I have to shoot that stuff i'll have to swab the barrels more often or maybe do what the Ruskies did in WW2, clean them with diesel fuel and motor oil. Maybe that's the trick. It would be nice to have some affordable non-corrosive ammo, not to neglect my cleaning but something that wont promote rust so bad.

Edited by K191145
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..... a patch down my 91/30 and M44. The last time I cleaned them months ago I "assumed" I scrubbed the crap out of the barrels, used solvent at first with a brush, then shot a lot of Rem Oil down the barrels as to wash them out and wet patched them several times and finally got white dry patches from them.....

 

What about the most important part, the water first to remove the salts from the corrosive ammo

 

... or maybe do what the Ruskies did in WW2, clean them with diesel fuel and motor oil. ..

 

You left out the pissing down the barrel first.

 

- OS

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What about the most important part, the water first to remove the salts from the corrosive ammo

 

 

You left out the pissing down the barrel first.

 

- OS

 

So basically clean it like a black powder muzzle loader? How about a little Dawn and water first?

 

As for the second part, that might be somewhat difficult. Maybe if it was at least a 30mm weapon.

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1) yes, Dawn and hot water will work. Windex is also a good one. The ammonia neutralizes the salts. Just don't let  the Windex sit a long time as it can cause damage if left in there.

 

2) try a funnel.

 

Ever peed on the campfire? It stinks. 

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Here is what Dennis Kroh of Empire Arms has to say about this.  He is definitely a mil surp kind of guy and has been in business with mil surp for 20 years:

 

http://www.empirearms.com/clean.htm

 

I have a big tackle box for a cleaning kit and have everything from wheel bearing grease to a fruit jar of 91% rubbing alcohol along with all the usual cleaning stuff, Q-tips, pipe cleaners, dental pics, solvent, Rem oil, choke tube grease, silicone cloth, along with a big bag of rags and folded newspapers etc.etc.etc. I guess i'll now have to add a small fruit jar of ammonia diluted.  :)

 

 

Cause i'm still going to shoot the cheap stuff.

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Hot or warm soapy water down the bore and do not forget the bolt. Get the corrosive stuff out first then clean with bore cleaner and brushes/patches.

I like Ballistol for a lube since it can be mixed with water for cleaning of old mil-surp firearms, actually developed for this, I believe.

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The ammonia probably does help with some of the copper fouling, but it's the water that dilutes and washes out the salts.  Hot water works well, but any water down a warm barrel will neutralize the salts, follow with an oiled patch and you're good to go.  Otherwise cleaning is done like any modern weapon, just be aware that a lot of the crown and rifling wear of milsurps was caused by over vigorous cleaning procedures as much as battle usage.  The typical 2 compartment cleaning bottle issued with wartime 91/30's originally contained water in one compartment, oil in the other.

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The ammonia probably does help with some of the copper fouling, but it's the water that dilutes and washes out the salts.  Hot water works well, but any water down a warm barrel will neutralize the salts, follow with an oiled patch and you're good to go.  Otherwise cleaning is done like any modern weapon, just be aware that a lot of the crown and rifling wear of milsurps was caused by over vigorous cleaning procedures as much as battle usage.  The typical 2 compartment cleaning bottle issued with wartime 91/30's originally contained water in one compartment, oil in the other.



Very cool. I never even thought to question what went in those things, I guess I just figured both side where filled with vodka.

Good job No_0ne. You make learning fun!

8B233DC0-3B80-47E1-8B52-80801E02EEA5-495
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Hot or warm soapy water down the bore and do not forget the bolt. Get the corrosive stuff out first then clean with bore cleaner and brushes/patches.

I like Ballistol for a lube since it can be mixed with water for cleaning of old mil-surp firearms, actually developed for this, I believe.

 

Yea I had to completely take down the bolts and scrub them, not from corrosion but the Hopps oil I coated them with the last time. Everything was sticky like half dried varnish.

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