1gewehr

How about a 4 or 6" barrel for the Dan Wesson? You do know that you can change them?

My wife has the original HS2000 that was re-badged as the XD. It's had a lot of cheap ammo go through it, and never missed a beat. No idea of the round count. I doubt it's as high as my 60000 round CZ75b. But certainly over 20000.

Hmmm. When you compare the purchasing power of a dollar in the mid '60s to today, you see that $100 back then is roughly the same as $1500 today. So that $100 excellent condition Garand has only kept up with inflation. The carbine is probably an Alpine or National Ordnance. So the $80 carbine you bought in 1966 would only sell for $600 today. Not a good investment.

All of those cartridges are ballistically similar. The uppers vary wildly in price, though! For barrel length, the rule of thumb is you lose 25-50fps per inch shorter than normal. Those rounds are optimized for 16 inch barrels. If it was me, I'd stick with that. If you want more muzzle blast and fireball, go with a shorter barrel. Don't forget to think about R Lee Armey as you blast away at melons!

There are several 7.7mm Japanese cartridges. The one used in the Type 99 rifles and light machine guns is timeless and NOT similar to .303 British. It is similar to our .30-06. The Type 99 Arisaka is a very strong action. Modern factory ammo is perfectly fine to shoot in your rifle. There are good online references for military copy loads. Gunboards.com has a Japanese weapons board with knowledgeable folks. You might start there.

Depends what you consider 'old'. Every couple of years, I exercise my old 1865 Spencer carbine. More often, I put a few rounds through a 1903 Springfield. A Garand often gets some range time as do a Marlin 39 and Remington 12. Most commonly taken to the range are my old FN FAL and Remington 66. Every now and again, the M1917 Lewis and original AR10 get some exercise.

How about 6.5 Grendel? Short action, lightweight, very accurate, low recoil, and lots of punch. Several manufacturers make hunting rifles in that caliber now. A good selection of loads are available including inexpensive steel case all the way up to precision long-range target ammo.

There are too many non-measurable factors involved to call it 'science'. If it was science, then subjective factors like comfort, fit, and how it feels would not enter into the equation. There would be one-size-fits-all solutions. As it is, I'm very happy that our thriving market makes a large number of firearm and caliber choices available! Hmm, I may dig out the old Star PD .45 I carried for over 30 years. Just because!

Caliber selection for a carry handgun is not a science. You have to balance a number of important factors along with the effectiveness of a specific load. Is the firearm one you can shoot effectively? What will be the expected range of engagement? (Close contact? Arms length? 20 feet? Longer?) Can you carry the firearm properly given your current clothing and weather? When it's hot and I'm only wearing shorts and a t-shirt going shopping, I don't try to conceal a large weapon. Obviously, a tiny pocket pistol is better than nothing. And I have trouble using a 2-shot .44mag derringer. So I carry a smaller caliber. But, when it's cold and I'm wearing heavy clothing in the woods, I have been known to carry a .44mag revolver. Do what's best for you under the circumstances. Perfection is not possible.

Remington Nylon66 Remington 550-2 Winchester 75 target Ruger 10/22 Ceiner .22 kit for M16 or AR15 Bushmaster .22 upper for AR Armalite AR7 Keltec CMR30

This is one of those times it's best to buy in person. If the bore is good and parts match, the price is good. These old Yugo Mausers are well made. As stated, many have seen very little use. They are basically a German K98 copy. The m48 and m48a are the same except for the use of stamped trigger guard, barrel bands, and other parts on the m48a.

I'm in. Mailed off the packet a week ago. All WWII firearms just keep appreciating. Getting a re-arsenalled 1911 at the CMP price seems fair. Yes, the process sucks. As for quality, most of the original 1911s I've seen are better quality than the stamped, cast, or plastic examples on the market now. You have to pay a lot more than what CMP wants to buy a 1911 made that well.

After renting and shooting all the small .45s, I bought the Springfield XDs. It came down to personal preference. The Glock 36 was OK, but felt very unbalanced to me. It didn't point naturally in my hand. The XDs just felt better and shot better for me. Like I said, personal preference. Go rent them and put a couple mags through each. That should help make your decision easier.

Have you read up on how to use the friction rings to adjust to your load? If not, do that first. I can't think of how many folks do not realize that the Remington 11, Browning A5, and Savage 720 shotguns all need to have friction rings set correctly. When someone complains about stiff recoil, or short cycling, it's almost always a bad set-up of the friction rings. When Winchester refused to pay John Browning what he wanted for his shotgun design, he sold it to Remington, Savage, and FN. Originally, most parts for all three were interchangeable. As time went on, each manufacturer made changes that made their parts incompatible with the others. I have a set of Remington 11s in 12, 16, and 20ga that we're my grandfather's. They are pretty much the only shotguns I shoot any more.

The Jericho is a CZ clone built like a tank. Aside from weight, I've never heard anything negative about them. For those who have real-life first-person experience, have you actually had anything break or had any problems with one? I've never had one myself. I have several CZs including an original CZ75. They are my absolute favorite shooters. I doubt that a Jericho is a bad choice for a first general-purpose pistol. Reliability should be above average, recoil will be low, and accuracy should be excellent. The only practical advice I can give you is to stay away from Promag and TripleK mags. MecGar are excellent.

The Jericho is a well-made clone of the CZ75. I've never heard anything bad about them. You could certainly have done a lot worse. The new 9mm self defense loads have a good reputation. And 9mm target ammo is about as inexpensive as ammo gets these days. So you should be able to afford to practice a good bit. Have fun!

The increased accuracy of the larger guns often has more to do with longer sight radius. Of course, longer sight radius is harder to conceal. I usually carry an XDS .45. It's small enough to not print, but I can get hits on E targets out to 30 yards. As stated earlier, the handgun is just to fight my way to a long gun. Large dogs can be surprisingly resistant to pistol calibers. I once had to hit a large feral pitbull 8 times with a .45 1911. All solid body hits with hollowpoints. Fortunately the other two dogs ran off at the sound of the shots. I got a coyote a few weeks back with my little Keltec CMR30 .22mag. Two hits at 60 yards and she ran about 20 yards and dropped. Very light, handy little rifle. The .22mag is nothing to sneeze at with the new Vermont loads.

Have you considered just buying a do-it-yourself G19 frame and putting you G17 parts on it? Total cost about $100 and you don't mess with a perfectly good frame.

It depends on what you mean by 'rough shape'. If its really rusty and pitted, it may not have much collector value unless its a rare variation. If its just lost most of its finish and is dirty, I'd gently clean it up and replace the springs with a new set. Wolff Springs sells a complete kit. Do your best to clean without harsh chemicals or anything that would remove original finish or markings. A web search will lead to lots of information. Fascinating old pistols with amazing history.

In addition to the 7.62mm Nagant ammunition, I have fired .32S&W, .32-20, and .32 H&R mag in my Nagants. If you use those other rounds, it's best to use jacketed bullets to prevent lead from building up in the barrel recess. I use .32 H&R mag a lot as it's a very effective little cartridge. The cases bulge out a bit on firing. But they resize just fine and I've reloaded cases four times so far without seeing any splits.

I'm going to suggest that he start at the beginning. For most people, that means a 22 rifle. Since you already have some experience with firearms, I'll suggest either the Ruger 10/22 semi-auto, or the Savage MKII bolt-action. Both are well made, reliable, and will give good service. Another factor is that both of those rifles are inexpensive (under $300) and can be easily sold if you loose interest. A 22 rifle will be welcome at any shooting range, even indoor pistol ranges. Start there. It's where we all started. And you never outgrow a good 22 rifle. No matter what other guns I take to the range, a 22 rifle will be in the group.

Nope, the hand cycling was to make it as small as possible. I got to shoot one many years ago and with a little practice, you can fire it very quickly one-handed. It was not fun to fire as all of that recoil is concentrated in only a small part of your hand and the gun is pretty light. I believe that it still qualifies as the smallest multi-shot .45 ever made. For those who care, it's about the same size as a Keltec P3AT, and the Ruger and Taurus clones of the Keltec.

The mauser you have has these improvements over the 1891. Gas relief hole in bolt. If a primer is punctured, the gas goes out the side instead of into your face. Double column magazine vs older single column. More positive feed, better extractor and ejector. Easier to load from stripper clips. That's a very pretty rifle. The 7.65mm was a in unusual cartridge mainly used by Argentina and Belgium.

OMG!!!! You'll shoot your eye out!

I carried a Star PD in .45acp for over 20 years. Small, light, strong half-cock if you care, large safety if you're inclined that way. Always reliable. Other folks had problems when they let the little nylon buffer break down as the alloy frame would crack after 500-1000 rds with no buffer. I swapped my buffer out every 500 rds and put many, many rounds through it with no sign of cracking. Another choice would be the Star BM or BKS in 9mm. The BM has a steel frame and the BKS is alloy. The BM is a bargain these days as many surplus ones are on the market. Star also made the Firestar in 9mm, 40, and 45. Not light, but very compact and solid steel! In a .380, the excellent Remington 51 is extremely thin and light for solid steel. That's the original Remington 51, not the worthless newer one. Walther PPk is light and small, but can be finicky about ammo. The Beretta 1934 is also thin and small. It likes a strong load, but make sure the springs are in good shape. Other thin, but powerful guns are the Tokarev in 7.62 or 9mm (get rid of the worthless safety!), Beretta 951 9mm, and Polish Radom 9mm.