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RCBS dies


Guest johnwhite

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Guest johnwhite

Ok, I'll take the sponge to work and wash it out. I'll get a little air compressor oil while I'm at it.

Why would a person use 3n1 oil on small high speed motors like a sewing machine if it doesn't lubricate?

Is the seater pin as long and as tiny as the decapping pin? It looked just like the decapping die from the Lee set.

The Lee set has been ordered, 2 weeks on back order.

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I use this Lee Product to lube cases. I put a small amount on my finger then coat the outside wall of the case being careful to not get any of the neck or base. If you don't have a tumbler or vibratory unit the Lee case lube will wipe off with a rag but a cheap tumbler or vibratory cleaner is better. There are other case lube if you shop around but one tube of Lee will lube a lot of cases.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/482023/lee-case-sizing-lube-2-oz-tube Edited by deadeye111
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I use lanolin mixed with alcohol. I can make a 1/2 gallon for about $8 and that includes the sprayer. I made a 1/2 gallon two years ago and have sized well over 6K cases now using it. I also used it for some other stuff like wasp spray as well as for starting fires and I still have well over 1/2 left. If I were a betting person I would bet that $8 investment would let you size 20K cases, depending on the case size. My next choice would be Imperial Wax. I use imperial when I am doing a few cases and use the lanolin when I am doing 200-300 cases.

 

You really need to try to lube the case neck. It gets sized down then the mandrel comes back through it. It can wear the mandrel down over time, esecially if you are not cleaning your cases. I would also suggest that you, at a bare minimum, use a brass brush to clean the inside of the case necks. I chuck it into a drill then spin it up and run the case over it. I always tumble before sizing but I generally use a brush on the neck as well. Then when I lube the neck gets lubed inside and out. Then after sizing I tumble for 20-30 minutes to get the lube out of the neck and off the outside of the case.

 

You can believe me or not but 3-n-1 is a cutting oil more so than a lubricating oil. And it does not even come close to having the lubricating properties a 30W engine oil does. 30W will work way better than the 3-n-1 for a case lube. Vaseline will work better than 3-n-1 and probably even work better than the Lee lube. I have tried the Lee lube and tried to like it but there are so many other things out there that works better. It may work but there are other products that make sizing easier. I have probably tried every recommended type of lube and so far the lanolin is the best as well as the cheapest.

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Thanks for the tip Dolomite on the lanolin case lube. I usually just run a RCBS round brush down the neck and pull it out. This stops the noise (crunch) when you size the case. I shot mostly bolt rifles in the past but finally got a Sig AR. I shoot it more than the Remington bolt rifles so I didn't need bulk case lube. I stuck a case in a .22-250 die and had to buy a stuck case remover. Once was enough.
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Get 100% pure lanolin and at least 91% rubbing alcohol., the higher the better. Then mix the two in a 8:1 or 10:1 ratio with the alcohol being the bigger and the lanolin being the smaller. Heat a pot of water on the stove until it is too hot to keep your hand in it. Then remove it from heat and let it set for a few minutes to equalize. Set the lanolin and alcohol in the hot water with the caps loosened. Leave them for about 15 minutes in order to heat up. This makes the lanolin more liquid like and helps it disolve in the alcohol. Put 1/2 the alcohol in the spray bottle then add all of the lanolin. Then pour the remaining alcohol in the spray bottle. Then cap it off and shake vigorously for a few minutes until it is mixed well. It should not seperate even after cooling.

And to use it all you have to do is spray it on the cases and let is sit long enough for the alcohol to evaporate. The higher the % of alcohol the quicker it evaporates.

Dolomite
 

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Or....... just get you a can of Imperial wax.  Size of a can of shoe polish.  Less elbow "work" involved (sorry Dolomite, great idea, long on the "do" stuff).  Run your finger across the top of the wax, rub around neck and shoulder of brass.  Should be only enough to make a shiny coat.  Run it through sizer and then wipe with rag as you toss it in completed bucket.  If your really lazy, don't even wipe em off, make a pile big enough to run through the tumbler again and just keep going.  No mess like with the liquids and pastes.  Never had a stuck case yet and I have loaded up to .340 Mag which is nice long brass requiring some oomph to size.

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/519525/imperial-case-sizing-wax-2-oz

 

Now, lets go dove hunting.

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I use a product called "One Shot" works well, but does not work on my 7mm RemMag Lees dies,

case sticks BAD. So I use "NeverSez" works great, just a bit on the neck inside and out.

After sized I just wipe it off. Yea it is a slow possess, but I dont shoot a lot of 7mm so slow is good.

With One Shot I put my brass in a box, spray and shake and spray again.

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I use an undersize die for my 9mm, as I'm loading lead bullets for my Lone Wolf Glock barrels. Lubing them makes the reloading process markedly smoother and easier.

I'm using One Shot as well, but will definitely be looking into the lanolin- alcohol mixture. Thanks.

 

I set up a new (to me) set of RCBS .223/5.56 (black box) small base dies [url=http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/ar_dies.asp] link[/url] yesterday.

They worked like a charm. :up:  But I only had time to deprime and straighten 100 rounds.

 

I'm certain those dies were recommended here at TGO. Thanks on that one too folks.

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That's good to know Dolomite.

 

I have a set of RCBS .223 dies I purchased around 1990 or so...at least by checking an old reloading log I've kept. And they were never as smooth as these new "Black Box" RCBS dies.

 

I believe I've read you don't necessarily crimp your 5.56 rounds, but rely on friction to maintain the projectile. It's my understanding these Black box dies incorporate a taper crimp, which I find positive, as it'd be unnecessary to purchase an additional die for this step.

Have you found the crimp "action" of these dies to work well for you?

 

Sorry about the potential thread drift folks...although I'm not really certain it is LOL.

 

TIA

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Guest johnwhite

A phone call from RCBS this morning. Both sizing cones in the decapping dies were for a .17 not a .22. He will double check that things are right and send it all back to me at no charge. I asked if other people were having the same problem. He said we have over 200 calls about the same problem. Yours is the first we got to look at.  To me it looks like QC took a nap.

I'll be lubing my cases with Regal E 20W air compressor oil when I get started back. It's free to me, I'll let you know how it does.

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