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I seem to have the worst luck with car batteries. I bought this truck about a year ago used and the battery has failed me several times. I have not had it checked out but it acts as if it had a very deep discharge at some point. It will be fine for weeks. All of the sudden it won't start. For example today I went into the gas station and stayed out in the truck talking on the phone for a few minutes before going inside when I came back out the truck would not start. I have bought several batteries from Batteries Plus with very poor results one was replaced within 3 months and considered defective another battery would not hold a charge and they would not admit that it was defective still another battery went bad on me 13 months after I got it and they would not replace it. I certainly do not want to do business with them. I really would not mind having to spend a little bit more money to get a good quality battery that will last a while and I will not have to worry about letting me down for a while but it seems like every brand I try is junk. I was just going for an Optima because I thought that they were the best bullet proof battery out there but after reading reviews on Amazon which has them priced quite well I am getting mixed stories. Does anybody have any certain brands of batteries that they like in particular? I'm kind of confused but I need do need to go ahead and buy a battery right now.
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Optima Red Tops last me about 2 years.  The bottom line is, fiberglass mat can't do what lead can.

Duralast from AutoZone and the Wally batteries are made by the same co, and Wally has them cheaper.

 

You really need to check that charging system though.  If it is eating batteries, there is a reason why. 

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There could be a long list of things that is causing your problem need to have the altanator checked if that is good need to check the starter if that is good need to check for a draw on the battery when the car is not running if live near Nashville i have a shop that i can recommend all they do is alt, starters & battery's Edited by raildog
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I had a lady who kept running down batteries come into the shop I used to work at.  Her brake light switch was stuck and the brake lights never went off!  LOL  All was normal after that fix.

 

The point being, you either have a voltage "leak", or poor charging from the alternator/Vreg assy.

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I'd also recommend you get the charging/starting system checked.  Could be an intermittent problem with the voltage regulator where it's not recharging the battery for some reason, or maybe a bad relay, or something (else) strange. 

 

That said, I've had good luck (*knock on wood*) with Autozone Gold batteries.  There's two things I know of for lead-acid battery life... 1) check the water regularly, and 2) Don't let it discharge completely.  I check the water every time I change the oil and I probably have to add a little (distilled) water every other time.  If it's something that sits for weeks at a time, get a battery tender.  Car batteries are made for starting cars... a single huge current draw followed by a recharge cycle.  They're not made for sitting with the radio on for hours on end. 

Edited by peejman
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I usually get 5-7 years on the Walmart & Autozone 5 year batteries. Most people don't know that Autozone has a discount battery program. (I only knew about it because I used to work for AZ years ago) If they have any batteries on the shelf that are past the suggested sell-by date, you can get them for a fraction of the normal price. A couple months ago I got a $150 Autozone 5 year battery for $50 simply because it sat on the shelf for a couple months past it's suggested sell-by date. It tested at 100% & still comes with a 5 year warranty. It's worth checking on.

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I got 9 years out of the first red top optima battery I bought.  

I have a yellow top in my FJ.....my FJ is yellow, I had to get the yellow one!

I have a blue top in my wife's Camry.  It was on sale.  

 

Everyone has different experiences and circumstances.  I have found Optima to be everything they claim and more.  

You really need the whole system looked over closely.  2 years?  A cheap ass rebuild from Hester should get you better than 2 years.  Something is wrong.  

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Didn't mean to be confusing.  The current battery is the only one that has been in the truck since I've owned it.  The other problem batteries that I was referring to were in different vehicles.  My best guess is that I have an intermittent interruption in the charging system and as a result the current battery has been sucked dry too many times and is not holding a good charge. 

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It is very easy to check for a drain on battery when truck is not running. Turn off everything in truck. Take positive cable off battery and hook a simple 12 volt test light between positive battery cab;e and other end to positive post of battery. If it lights up you have a short or a drain somewhere in your electrical system. If you want to check further with the test light still hooked up just begin pulling fuses from fuse panel 1 at a time and see if any of them shut the light off. If one does that will give you an idea which circuit the problem is in. If the light stays on after all the fuses have been pulled then the issue will be either in your starter or your alternator because neither one of them are fused...............just kind of a simple test...................jmho

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It is very easy to check for a drain on battery when truck is not running. Turn off everything in truck. Take positive cable off battery and hook a simple 12 volt test light between positive battery cab;e and other end to positive post of battery. If it lights up you have a short or a drain somewhere in your electrical system. If you want to check further with the test light still hooked up just begin pulling fuses from fuse panel 1 at a time and see if any of them shut the light off. If one does that will give you an idea which circuit the problem is in. If the light stays on after all the fuses have been pulled then the issue will be either in your starter or your alternator because neither one of them are fused...............just kind of a simple test...................jmho

Anything newer than 96 for sure and probably older will always have a drain for computer and radio and clock memory, but you right about pulling fuses I would use a meter on amp setting should be no more than 2-3 amp draw if it is pull fuses till the amp draw drops.
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I've had good luck with interstate batteries. Oddly enough, I've never gotten a bad battery from Walmart either.

 

I'm with the other guys; you may have vehicle problems; not a luck or battery problem. Did all of this happen with the same car, or several different ones?

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Awesome advice fellas, I'll be using the tips when I try to get my bass boat running. That sucker has 4 batteries.

 

 

any time you all buy ANYTHING parts related for autos do a quick google search for "advance auto coupon code" and there will be one for $40 off of $100 or more, every single time.  When I do a full set of brakes, rotors and pads, I'll place two separate orders for front rotors with pads then rear rotors with a few dollars worth of extra fluids or whatever to bump it over $100 and viola you get $200 worth of goodies for $120.  Just buying the rotors & pads alone would be around $150-$160.

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Chasing down a battery drain can be fun. Years ago, I spent hours going thru the fuse panel trying to figure it out. Turned out to be a relay that was occasionally sticking. Also, I've noticed that after a battery is fully drained about 3-4 times that it will never hold a charge again. Don't know if it destroys the cells or ruins the acid but I've found out its best to buy a new one once it been "killed" a number of times.
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Take your vehicle to auto zone or advance auto, they will test your battery for free and even your charging system.  I haven't had any bad luck with batteries,  most have given me quite a few years of service.   I got a red-top for my jeep because it also drained batteries,  never found the drain so I used a battery disconnect, but the battery held up fine to a few deep drains where I had to jump start it.  Most times I get a walmart battery,  most of them are made by the same manufacturer, so price is the only difference between same class batteries. 

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Caster, the reason my Red Tops only last two years is that my 02 Durango has a unusually sensitive idle control system.  The PCM actually reads base voltage of the battery and anything below 12.4V  it will have difficulty idling.  It is a well documented fault with these mopars... and quite a bother actually.  This fault happens regardless of alternator output levels from the diode packs.  If the batt is below 12.4V without the top charge, your idle control circuit will become more erratic over time and eventually cause stalling at stoplights.  The engine will crank/start fine.  Just a clarification.  

 

Carry on.  LOL

 

I got 9 years out of the first red top optima battery I bought.  

I have a yellow top in my FJ.....my FJ is yellow, I had to get the yellow one!

I have a blue top in my wife's Camry.  It was on sale.  

 

Everyone has different experiences and circumstances.  I have found Optima to be everything they claim and more.  

You really need the whole system looked over closely.  2 years?  A cheap ass rebuild from Hester should get you better than 2 years.  Something is wrong.  

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Just another little tip I learned over the many years of being a mechanic. I found that adding battery acid to a low battery is much better than adding water because very soon the water added will dilute the acid content of the battery causing failure. You can buy battery acid at most all parts stores in small quantities and invest in a water bottle designed to put water or acid in batteries.  I ran my first set or Deep cycle Stowaway trolling motor batteries in my Skeeter Bass boat 9 trouble free years just by adding acid instead of water to them when low...........................jmho

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I work on batteries for a living (big ol forklift batteries). I'd just have an auto parts store do a load test for you. Volts won't tell you as much as amps will. As far as adding water and acid, adding water is fine. Adding acid is putting a weak bandaid on it. The only time you should add acid is if any has spilled out. If the battery isn't leaking, then the acid is still in there, the water evaporates, the acid doesn't. Now the acid may be trapped inside the plates, which means the battery is sulfated and on its way out.
As far as new batteries go, is get a Deka, but I am a bit biased. Still great batteries though.
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I went through three yellow top optima batteries in a year. The only reason I kept getting new ones is because the warranty covered them. I wouldn't buy another one as its annoying to have them replaced under warranty because the store has to test the battery for 24 hours before giving a replacement.
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