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I have done both and certainly more cost effective you build your own, but I prefer to use a toolbox so I have storage under it.  You can never have enough storage.  I have a 50" Milwaukee toolbox that I used.  I personally added a double layer of 3/4" plywood that is glued and screwed under wood top on the toolbox for extra support.  For me, the support of the top is critical.  I then screwed the whole thing to the wall for extra stability.

You can build a simply one out of 2x4's, just make sure to put a post directly under the where you will have the press(es) for the load to be pushed to the floor.  I guess it also depends on the "accuracy" you are looking for.  I want as little movement/flex as possible as I load for precision/accuracy most of the time.

Like most things, budget and frankly expectations are the key factors.  

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Built mine 2x6 frame 3/4 in plywood top and a 2x6 underneath my press with the bolts through the plywood and 2x6. Make sure it’s level. Mine has no flex or wobble at all. Mounted a sheet of plywood to the wall above it and use that for a peg board.

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I use a work bench I bought at Sam's Club. Metal frame and drawer, wood top that's 48"x24" and includes a peg board back, LED light and power strip.  it's sturdy and heavy enough without any extra weight. I have a Dillion 650 and a Lyman All-American 8 mounted on it.  They have it on sale through the 4th for $200.

Seville Classics UltraHD Lighted Workbench - Sam's Club (samsclub.com)

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I built mine while at UT from a discarded large instrument packing crate.  Initially used it rebuild Harley engines.  That hobby is long passed.  Added some plywood to keep it from flexing.  Have three machines mounted to it.  Built it in the late sixties and am now retired and it’s still going strong.

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  • 1 month later...
On 6/27/2022 at 2:38 PM, expendable said:

I built just the bottom portion of this one years ago, it is very sturdy. 

I like to reload standing so I adjusted the leg length to match my height. 


I built the one described in the noted website about 42 years ago. My space was limited so my version is 2/3 the width of the one described, but it has worked well for all these years - PLUS its survived multiple moves and is still going strong. The only Issue I have had is that the cupboard and bench top need to be removed to pass thru normal size doors if you're moving.




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  • 4 weeks later...

Never built a reloading bench but have built some heavy work benches. One thing to add to all the good suggestions. I have built several out of 2X6 or what ever 2X material is cheapest per sq inch to buy for the top, I then cover it with masonite. It is a cheap way to have a continue surface with no gaps and if it gets beat up or stained add another sheet on top. I just nail it down with drywall nails, but you could use liquid nail so you didn't have all the nail heads.

My current gun bench for cleaning and doing work on my guns is a door that I cut down to the size I needed across two 2 drawer filing cabinets for storage. I then bought cheap carpet runner material at a big box store and covered the bench since it is for clean work. I have a different bench for dirty work.

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I  2nd solid core doors for workbenches.  You can cut them down to whatever size you need.  You don't have to worry about the flex and everything falling over when you are resizing.  I have built several work benches out of them.

I am in the process of designing something in my head a little prettier for in the office.  I have a solid core door that I could use but I think it would not look as nice.  I have been contemplating glueing 2x4's together side by side for the top.  I would be roughly 3.5 inches thick minus whatever I plane off of it.  I was thinking 30 inches deep by 60 inches long.  I am thinking  stain it and put some polyurethane on it.  I was thinking untreated 4x4's for the legs which I would stain also, possibly a darker color than the top.  After that I plan on building cabinets with doors to hide everything.  Hopefully it all won't look like a train wreck.

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