Oil change question

[pops572]

The wife has been getting free changes on her Camry until now and she is due one, my question is should I stick with the synthetic at $50 or is the synthetc blend just as good at $35? Should I just pocket the extra $15 or is it worth the extra money to have the full synth change? I have been doing the blend in my Chevy for several years now and see no ill affects, but it is about 5 years older than hers and not sure if I should stick with the full or if changing her to the blend would be okay.

[173rdABN]

Do it yourself for cheaper. Napa gold filter and mobile 1. Costs me $25 in the civic to do it myself, and my last pickup was $30. Stick with synthetic if that's what you have always been using.

[TripleDigitRide]

I prefer synthetic, because you can go longer between oil changes. Depending on where you get it done, it can be cheaper in the long run.

Edited August 16, 2014 by TripleDigitRide

[Sam1]

Spend a few extra bucks and get some amsoil 25,000 mile oil.

 

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/?filters=284

[Karnage]

Do it yourself with synthetic. Advance or Autozone always has oil change specials. It usually costs me around $30 and 20 minutes of my time. I have used full synthetic exclusively for about 10 years and my cars are just getting broken in 185,000 miles on one and 126,000 on the other.

[musicman]

The main question not being answered is this: how often do you change the oil? If it's 7,500 or less under normal driving conditions, any money on a full synthetic is wasted, imho. Both the 4 and 6 cyl Camry motors are not known to have excessive wear or fouling of the engine oil. When in doubt, check the owners' manual. Toyota spends millions (maybe billions?) on R&D. No counter jockey (I used to be one, btw) can match that.

I personally would go synthetic if you plan on going past 6 mos or 7,500 miles regularly. Between 3-6 mos/5-7,500 miles I'd go blend. If going by the old 3 mos/3k I'd go plain dino.

Just in the interest of full disclosure, I put M1 0-40 in my V8 Volvo S80 about every six months, and change the oil in my wife's MKX at the same time using M1 5-20. OEM filter in the Volvo, and M1, Bosch Distance +, or Royal Purple filter on the Lincoln.

I used to obsess about timely oil changes... now I just use premium stuff and change it when I get around to it. I have plenty of wiggle room with the quality stuff I use.

[DWARREN123]

I would stay with the full synthetic. It has worked well for me on my last couple of vehicles and had no oil related problems with them.

Just my opinion and I do my own oil changes.

[runco]

For years I thought synthetic was snake oil, a gimmick to get your money.  I finally made a home test, and just based upon fuel economy principals alone, its worth the premium to use synthetic.  Mobil1 is my choice, and I use 15 quarts every 10K miles in my diesel truck.  It costs me $120 per oil change.   Change it yourself.  There are just some things men must do, pee standing up, do not use GPS, and change their own oil. 

[enfield]

Consider this:

 

Ford Motor Company lubrication engineers control the ingredients in Motorcraft oil, the only recommended oil for Ford engines.  Motorcraft oil is a synthetic blend.

 

I believe Ford's recommended change interval is 5k miles, but that may have changed.  They don't tell me anymore.

Edited August 16, 2014 by enfield

[enfield]

For years I thought synthetic was snake oil, a gimmick to get your money.  I finally made a home test, and just based upon fuel economy principals alone, its worth the premium to use synthetic.  Mobil1 is my choice, and I use 15 quarts every 10K miles in my diesel truck.  It costs me $120 per oil change.   Change it yourself.  There are just some things men must do, pee standing up, do not use GPS, and change their own oil. 

 

You have to do your own brake jobs also, until you need help getting up off the garage floor.

[Wyldk2]

With Synthetics you probably can go 10k or more miles between changes. If I only had put synthetic in my durango back when i first got it, i'm sure i would have saved more money in the long run.

 

Since you're running synthetic, stay with full synthetic. It costs more but lasts longer. I only use full synthetic in my can-am ( atv) and it keeps it cooler. Running Amsoil right now. Stuff is expensive but well worth it.

 

Next vehicle I get will probably be converted to full synthetic.

[tnguy]

For years I thought synthetic was snake oil, a gimmick to get your money.  I finally made a home test, and just based upon fuel economy principals alone, its worth the premium to use synthetic.  Mobil1 is my choice, and I use 15 quarts every 10K miles in my diesel truck.  It costs me $120 per oil change.   Change it yourself.  There are just some things men must do, pee standing up, do not use GPS, and change their own oil.

Jeez, are your filters gold plated?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-5W-20-Motor-Oil-5qt/17018132

I use Rotella-T6 (synthetic) in my TDI every 10k miles or so. Diesels are a little harder on the oil though. My understanding is the main advantage of synthetics is that the molecules break down less. For a regular commuter gasser, if you don't want to spend the money, non-synthetic should be fine. If you are not always 100% on time with your oil changes, synthetic will give you a little more wiggle room probably (I would not change the schedule unless the manual recommends it though).

I have got my oil changed professionally exactly once because the welcome basket when we moved into the house had a free one. The time I sent sitting waiting, doing nothing was totally bogus. I can have my car up on ramps and draining in 5 minutes then be about something else for a while then come back and finish the job in another 10 minutes. Total cost $24* for top quality oil and an OEM filter.


*(Will be $28 next time) Edited August 16, 2014 by tnguy

[Murgatroy]

My Mustang gets her oil changed every 10k, Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. Ford Recommended intervals (and the dash says so too.) The dealer however thinks I should come see them every 3k.

 

 

Yeah...

 

 

I change my own oil. Six quarts of Mobil 1 5w-20 with an STP filter. Costs me $35 and twenty minutes of my time. I still have all my 'free' oil changes from when I bought my car.

 

I like the interval and protection afforded with the full synthetic. And changing it myself negates most costs, it is $10 difference than blend.

[runco]

Jeez, are your filters gold plated?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-5W-20-Motor-Oil-5qt/17018132

I use Rotella-T6 (synthetic) in my TDI every 10k miles or so. Diesels are a little harder on the oil though. My understanding is the main advantage of synthetics is that the molecules break down less. For a regular commuter gasser, if you don't want to spend the money, non-synthetic should be fine. If you are not always 100% on time with your oil changes, synthetic will give you a little more wiggle room probably (I would not change the schedule unless the manual recommends it though).

I have got my oil changed professionally exactly once because the welcome basket when we moved into the house had a free one. The time I sent sitting waiting, doing nothing was totally bogus. I can have my car up on ramps and draining in 5 minutes then be about something else for a while then come back and finish the job in another 10 minutes. Total cost $24* for top quality oil and an OEM filter.


*(Will be $28 next time)

Little rebuttal

 

Your link takes me to Walmart @ $22.66 per container of 5 quarts for a mobil1 for non-diesels.  I WISH!  Unfortunately, I use Mobile1 Turbo Diesel at slightly more per gallon (not 5 quarts), and I buy 4 gallons at a time since my truck holds 15 quarts oil.  I also use full synthetics (Mobil1) in every vehicle I own from the wife's minivan, the boat, and others.  I mentioned in my earlier post that I use to think synthetic was just a lame way to get more more out of your wallet without really giving you any measurable value, kinda like fuel injector cleaner or something.  I conducted my own home experiment, of my diesel truck and my wifes van years ago, and just on the improved gas mileage savings alone, it was worth the premium of switching from conventional oil to full synthetic.  It wasn't much, but it was noticeable.  Then I made myself aware of the chemical properties difference between conventional and synthetic, and the decision was quite easy to make.  Finally, Mobil1 from my research was the proven leader of the synthetics.  The rest was history.

 

Here is a little math to back up my oil cost changes, this does not include gold filter insert ;) :

 

[url=http://s963.photobucket.com/user/runco0318/media/oil_zps23168f96.jpg.html][/URL]

Edited August 16, 2014 by Runco

[musicman]

Yup. With all these little 4 bangers and V6s, many folks forget that big motors take lots of oil! Also, many European extended-drain designs nearly double the oil capacity of your typical Asian important for a similar motor.

Wifey's MKX takes right at 6 qts, while my S80 takes almost 8. Five qts and a filter doesn't cut it in many of today's cars.

[173rdABN]

I use mobile 1 in everything and still change the oil every 6k miles on the dot. None of this 10k mile stuff for me.

[TNMTBik3r]

Right now I have:

1997 F150 - Castrol GTX High Mileage with K&N filter
2006 Civic - Pennzoil Platinum PurePlus with Mobil 1 filter
2009 HHR - Pennzoil Platinum with Bosch filter

As you see I'm not dedicated to a filter brand, but I avoid From oil filters. I usually go with one of the sales, and pay the extra $2 for the upgraded filter.

I may change my Civic over to Castrol synthetic and test it unless something changes. For some reason, my mpg dropped from 36 down to 32 immediately (based on 4 fillups) after the oil change (had dealership oil from where I bought it).

On my Ranger before I sold it, always used Pennzoil Platinum and a K&N filter, changed between 7k-8k miles depending on when the weekend fell (drove over 100 miles a day).

Sold the Ranger, Civic is my DD now - plan to change it at the same intervals.
My wife's HHR doesn't rack up a lot of miles, but she makes a lot of short trips. So I have been changing it around 4 months or so.
Just bought the F150 2 months ago, it is just a weekend vehicle so I plan on changing it maybe every 6 months, may even go once a year.

[tnguy]

Little rebuttal
 
Your link takes me to Walmart @ $22.66 per container of 5 quarts for a mobil1 for non-diesels.  I WISH!  Unfortunately, I use Mobile1 Turbo Diesel at slightly more per gallon (not 5 quarts), and I buy 4 gallons at a time since my truck holds 15 quarts oil.  I also use full synthetics (Mobil1) in every vehicle I own from the wife's minivan, the boat, and others.  I mentioned in my earlier post that I use to think synthetic was just a lame way to get more more out of your wallet without really giving you any measurable value, kinda like fuel injector cleaner or something.  I conducted my own home experiment, of my diesel truck and my wifes van years ago, and just on the improved gas mileage savings alone, it was worth the premium of switching from conventional oil to full synthetic.  It wasn't much, but it was noticeable.  Then I made myself aware of the chemical properties difference between conventional and synthetic, and the decision was quite easy to make.  Finally, Mobil1 from my research was the proven leader of the synthetics.  The rest was history.
 
Here is a little math to back up my oil cost changes, this does not include gold filter insert ;) :
 

 
 
Fair enough. More surprising than the price difference is that it is only a gallon as compared to the 5 quarts I linked to. I think the T6 is just a gallon also.
 
I was worried for a minute that you were buying the quart bottles. I've seen people do that and it leaves me scratching my head.

I go with the T6 because when I researched on the forums for the TDI, it was what nearly everyone recommended. I do use the Mobil-1 for other vehicles though (I tried the T6 in my motocycle and I'm not so sure I like the way it makes the gearchange feel) Edited August 16, 2014 by tnguy

[Ted S.]

Dang Runco, and I though I was paying a lot for oil changes! (Even though I do use K&N Filters)

 

Usually an oil change I do my self runs about $50-60 every go around with Mobile 1 0w-20.

 

I've been trying to follow the manual as best I can, I think I'm going to get my oil tested at some point. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

[Dustbuster]

Full synthetic M1 royal purple or valvoline. I change @ 5k
2005 chevvtahoe 370,000 miles on it w no engine problems. My pressure has dropped but I planned on doing an engine on it at 400k. It pays to use good oil and filters, and use mid grade fuel...just picked up a vortec w 95k to replace this one. It will get the same treatment... Hope this helps

[bersaguy]

Well, lets see. When I had the new engine put in my 1997 Jeep Cherokee by my son I had him put Mobil 1 oil in and a Mobil 1 oil filter. That was 5 years ago and have not had it changed since. Jeep had 138,750 when new motor was installed and mileage now is 141,780. At the rate I am putting miles on the Jeep I figure it will be 2018 before my next oil change will be required............jmho

Edited August 16, 2014 by bersaguy

[HvBikeWlTravel]

The main reason I use a full synthetic is for sub-freezing start-ups and long periods between start-ups. And I change the 4-banger oil every 7-8,000. The seldom used V-8 Tundra every year +/-

The company Chevy HHR has gone 10 grand between changes on organic with no noticeable ill-effects in 282,000.  Surely a Toy engine can equal that.

[Erik88]

For our Toyota Rav4 they recommend using conventional oil and changing it every 5K. I asked if I should go to synthetic and they said no. 

 

I'm not sure what to do  :shrug:

 

 

Our Carolla has 150K and I do regular oil every 3K miles.

[McGarrett]

I think there is no doubt the synthetic is better but the dino oil is a lot better now than it was years ago. I have had a lot of oil samples done on big trucks, buses, and our service trucks over the years. I have customers running 50,000 drain intervals in big trucks with full synthetic and other customers running 40,000 on regular dino oil. The samples come back good and could have went even more miles. The customer that runs the 40,000 intervals just traded in their old trucks and got new ones. The 2009's they traded had between 800,000 and 900,000 and had not had major engine work done if that tells you anything.

I have run regular dino oil in our powerstroke service truck since new in 2003 and have usually followed Ford's 7500 mile interval but the sampling indicated it could easily have gone to 10,000. It has 170,000 on it currently and is still running strong. I have run 15w40 Texaco, Shell Rotella and Rimula, Pennzoil Long Life, Mobil Fleet and Delvac, and we currently are bulking Conoco Fleet Supreme. I have had good experience with all these oils in our shop. I have had to switch brands a few time to keep a competitive price.

In my wife's Honda Pilot I run dino oil 5w20 and do 5000 mile changes with no problems. The manual says 7500 and I have let it run over a few times to 7500. It has about 150,000 showing on the odometer now and is doing fine.

I think it is just up to your individual preference. Myself I just stick with dino oil due to the high cost of synthetics and the fact that I stock bulk dino oil in our shop. It would be expensive to fill a 275 gal tank with full synthetic. Edited August 16, 2014 by McGarrett

[RC3]

I used to run synthetic on my altima and audi. Doing it yourself is much cheaper and takes all of 15 min. On the other hand, my RX8 cant run synthetic due to the nature of the wankel engine. So I just run 5-20 and save a few bucks.