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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/16/2017 in Posts

  1. Back in October I once again got an 03FFL. Aside from a lack of funds, I really don't have anything in the must have bucket list column. Living dangerously, Iv been known to browse the GB C&R listings on occasion (sorta like having unprotected sex). Well, who can resist the dream world of a Luger holding at $500? I clicked on it. Now every one knows that Luger will close at something that wont be anywhere near the 5 bones it had 5 days out from the gavel. But I clicked on it anyway. Here is the specimen in question.... This particular Luger is a 1906 model that was produced as a 5000 gun contract for the Brazilian Gov. This one is more than likely made in 1908 or early 1909. Its all original & matching numbers with a mint bore. This condition is rather about as good as it gets since these guns saw hard service. Now all that is more or less bla bla bla to me since I never wanted anything too nice to shoot and I figured Id run into a rough mix master someday to play with but here is the kicker. Back in Feb of 88 when I was graduating from the state Corrections academy, I watched them call us up front for our badge presentation one by one. All the guys were getting these brand new 14-1500 numbered bright gold badges, then they called me up there and they hand me this badge in a new case but it didn't look like all the others, mine had the bright gold rubbed off all the high spots and the rest was more like a dull silver gold and the number on it was 1259. Looking at it, I thought now that's a coincidence... if you add the first two numbers together, you get my birth day and the 59 is my birth year! That Badge served me well over the 25+ years I had it. In all that time, my knees and elbows never had to try n dent a concrete floor! Being a might bit superstitious, now you know..... the rest of the story. Closing at $1150 + 25 to ship C&R direct, I think I got a hell of a deal.
    4 points
  2. Yessir, as a matter of fact we did, got 3 raccoons, dispatched them and reset the traps again, will check them again today. Family friend was out ther duck hunting as well and got a drake.
    4 points
  3. I've used W 231 for a very long time. It's a very fine powder and meters extremely well. I've loaded 10's of thousands of rounds of 45 acp with it, as well as 9mm and .38 spl. I've even blown up a Glock 21 with it because I screwed up and double charged a case. 11.4 grains will tear up a darn Glock!! But Glock replaced it, even knowing that it was my fault... (late 1990's). fwiw that was my only double charge and I load at least 10k of handgun rounds each year. Pay attention folks! As I mentioned, it a very fine powder and it doesn't take much powder in a case to reach max load data. As long as you don't get distracted, as I did, and pay attention, as I didn't, it's a great and economical powder.
    3 points
  4. My email simply stated "Why don"t you get a life??!!?"
    2 points
  5. Stopped by an Academy Sports this afternoon and they had 200 round boxes of Winchester white box .40 for 56 bucks. I carried a couple of them home with me.
    2 points
  6. Raoul... As others have said, WW 213 is a very good powder... We have used it for years for 38 special, 357 mid range, 44 special, 44 mag mid range, 45 colt, and lots of other cartridges we shoot in our revolvers in the 800 to 900 fps range... (..which is most of em for us...)... I got turned on to 231 looking for a powder similar to unique; and 231 is pretty much it.. i wouldn't turn around for the difference between unique and 231... We use 'em both interchangeably (...with about 0.5 grain adjustment lower for 231.... Our 44 special load for unique is 7.5 grains... The 231 load would be 7.0...)... I'm a big fan of a heavy roll crimp on any revolver load... It will make all the powders burn clean... Hope this helps... leroy... PS... For 45ACP... Nothin beats Tigegroup...
    2 points
  7. Perfect for a wide range of pistol and revolver loads. There are rumors swirling of it being discontinued.
    2 points
  8. You could combine the tap idea with heat/cold. Get the tap to grab and heat the outside of the chamber with a propane torch. Once it's hot, spray the inside of the case with some aerosol freeze spray and it should come right out.
    2 points
  9. Zebra F-701 for decades here. All stainless. Unlikely to get taken by a overzealous TSA agent. And, it'll only set you back $5 if you lose it.
    2 points
  10. Funny about this topic, I just ordered (3) of those Chinese made ones on ebay. I have a delayed Christmas party to go to in about a week and need to bring $10 gift. The other two are for me. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tactical-Pen-Aluminum-Self-Defense-Military-Kubotan-6-COMBAT-Glass-Breaker-FAI-/222194182243?hash=item33bbce2863:g:cocAAOSwj2dXkH1q
    2 points
  11. 2 points
  12. So, I was in the market for a cheap coyote gun when this used Axis popped up. Crappy rattle-can stock, stock trigger (30lb of grit...) & factory Bushnell. Mind you, it was $200 so I'm not complaining & it came with 400 round of 50gn hollowpoints. Picked it up this morning & immediately decided it was too long &, well....normal. 12 o'clock & I get a 1hr lunch break so I figured "*%#$ it". Pulled the stock, removed the mounts & scope, whipped off the barrel, ran to a friend with a lathe, used said lathe to chop it to 16¼", turned a nice 11° crown, ran home, removed the trigger, replaced the stock spring, installed an over travel screw, polished the trigger & sear (3lb pull, zero overtravel. Didn't have time to fix the pre-travel. I'll live with it!), reinstalled it, screwed on the barrel, headspaced it, tightened everything up, scope on, stock on, loaded the mag & zeroed the thing (1½" high at 100yds, ¾"group) & STILL had time for a cheese sammich! Do THAT with your Remchester!
    1 point
  13. Took urban rifle one at royal range this weekend. One of our members was one of the instructors both instructors were extremely knowledgeable and done a great job answering questions and helping out any way they could. The class itself was a good mix of class room and range time. Most of the class room time was spent on rifle familiarization, reloading techniques, and malfunction clearing. Range time consisted of multiple drills from 25 yards and closer. I was definitely humbled and learned real quick what I needed to work on. Looking forward to get in urban rifle 2 and some of the shooting on the move classes they offer.
    1 point
  14. I posted 9 hours ago, but I'll have to step it up. I got this in my email. Thanks. Hi Wingshooter, Wingshooter; Our cutting edge group of Internet monkeys noticed that you have not visited Tennessee Gun Owners recently and we just wanted to let you know that you are missed and that we hope you'll visit us again soon. If you've bought any new guns or gear or taken any recent trips to the range or gone hunting, we know our members would love to hear about your experiences. Why not stop by and fill us in? https://www.tngunowners.com/forums/ PS: If you're having any trouble accessing the site, we would love to know so that we can help you out. You can always send us a request for help via our Contact Us page and we will do what we can to resolve the issue for you. Just head over to the following link: PSS: You are receiving this email because you indicated that it was OK for us to contact you periodically when you registered on the forum. If you would like to stop receiving these emails, we'll be a little sad but we understand. Just head over to this link to update your profile: We hope to see you soon! --Your Friends at TGO
    1 point
  15. Picked up one of the 2.0 M&Ps today in .40 and a 5 inch slide. Initial impressions are out of the box it is a nicer pistol and the changes are thought out well. BUT it is probably offers little that a well set up original design does not offer. If your 1st design already has an Apex trigger and stippling , etc. then do not loose any sleep over not having the latest version. You are not giving up anything to someone with a 2.0 model. My interest in the 2.0 is for a thumb safety on a 5 inch slide model. Before the 2.0 I had to buy 2 pistols and make my own 5 inch thumb safety model and then I ended up with a 4.25 I did not really use. I used the 4.25s to arm up with women folk in the family come Christmas time.
    1 point
  16. What's being intelligent got to do with it?
    1 point
  17. Probably, but I think guys like us are too far gone to be helped. lol
    1 point
  18. Imma whip a couple of inches off that butt next. 14" LOP is too much for me!
    1 point
  19. Me too but I log on about 5 times a day....
    1 point
  20. I got one of those to. I had to laugh I log on here at least three times a week if not more, I just don't post much. I never have anything intelligent to add.
    1 point
  21. LOL...You've got to remember that for it's era it was a low cost and strictly functional revolver. Nothing more and nothing less. Some were clearly better then others insofar as their trigger pull and some were equally worse with respect to said trigger pull. I've got an older circa late 1920's to mid 1930's .38 S&W IJ with mismatched grips that has a really decent DA & SA trigger pull.
    1 point
  22. I used it a lot with 9mm .38 and 45 acp when I was still loading on a single stage press and a RCBS Chargemaster scale. When I got my Dillon 650 I had a really hard time getting it to throw the exact same charge consistently. If I were throwing w321 at 4.0 I would get 4.1 4.0 3.9 3.8 4.1 4.2 and that just drove me nuts. I switched over to #2 for 9mm and 45 and if I throw 4.0 I get 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0.
    1 point
  23. A wise move on your part. I don't have anywhere near the amount of ammo I'd like to have for each caliber. Not enough money or space to do it. And I do have most of the traditional pistol calibers covered, so that's not an issue. So it's rare that I won't have few boxes stashed for my shooting. I don't really remember what 22 mag was selling for back in the 80/90s, so I guess my comments aren't a true comparison. But it hasn't changed, that I know of, since then. One of the few things I've done right was to have bought extra when I could. And since I didn't really have a shortage of anything but 22, I didn't get too anxious of the shortages during all the rough years. But I paid what I considered a fair price on a case at the time; about 7 cents with shipping.
    1 point
  24. Minimag, 5mph crosswind (3 0'clock). 100 yards isn't that far when it comes to wind, especially if it's constant.
    1 point
  25. It's a fairly common thing to downsize targets based on available range. It's highly unlikely anyone will pull this off in wind of any consequence.
    1 point
  26. Thanks, prag. I am going to try and visit there on the 21st, during their next USPSA match, and check the place out.
    1 point
  27. Note: if you have large hands, the one I have would be pretty ineffective as a weapon; you'd still have a cool writing implement. So yes, length can matter...
    1 point
  28. Thank you hipower. So really the current pricing is not outlandish all things considered then. fwiw I not really looking at purchasing a .22 mag at this time...but I've been known to pick up a box or two of ammo just in case I need some at a later date.
    1 point
  29. I've been going through some old guns I recently acquired, and got to this ancient 1894 Marlin. After some tinkering, cleaning, etc., I decided I wanted to shoot it. Well, the ammunition wouldn't begin to chamber. A quick glance showed that dreaded ring of brass at the back of the chamber.....A case with the head ripped off. I'd like to claim this idea, as it worked great, but it was actually a suggestion from my father. I removed the bolt, and ran a tap of the proper size into the case, just deep enough to get a good bite, and drove it out with a wooden dowel. A tap and die set can be had pretty inexpensively from somewhere like Harbor Freight if you don't happen to have one already. The tap cuts threads into the brass rather than pushing the brass harder and harder into the chamber walls like an easy out or screw would do. I hope this idea might be of some help to someone here if you ever encounter a stuck case.
    1 point
  30. I use 231 more than any other pistol powder. I think it is the best all around pistol powder out there. It has a wide useable range for 45 Auto and a good burn rate for 9mm. I also use it for 38 Super plinking loads and 38 special. Works for 45 Colt too but it's a bit more position sensitive than I like. Remember Hodgdon HP38 and 231 are the same powder.
    1 point
  31. I also use Win231 for .45ACP. I used it for .38/.357 back when I was reloading them too. It's good stuff: meters well, very consistent, inexpensive...when you can find it.
    1 point
  32. I have the Hinderer stainless Investigator, which is almost too small. It will still easily put a hole in someone's skull. If I had it to do over, I would probably go for the Extreme Duty
    1 point
  33. Used it a lot for 9mm. Worked fine for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  34. I received a Rick Hinderer Extreme Duty Brass Pen for Christmas. Very solid construction and it feels good in the hand.
    1 point
  35. Clearly, your Dad is great gunsmith himself. I like the custom touch of extended splinter forend and stretched receiver wood panels. Very tastefully done with the custom checkered panels..... a real keeper to pass down! Your lucky you have a Dad like that. My Dad didn't want to have any guns. He was a Lt. in the Germany Wehrmacht during WWll and wounded 3 times on the Russian front. I guess all that messed him up some.....
    1 point
  36. That's terrible, and I hate to hear it. I haven't ran across anything that rings a bell from your list, but I'll print your list for reference and be on the lookout. Good luck!
    1 point
  37. My heart goes out to ya.....My Dad had his business broken into when i was a kid.The thief took over 18 handguns and his silver coin collection....My Dad was never the same....I hope you the very best of luck..
    1 point
  38. I bought a 290 at auction (note: not the RS model). Light strikes had me sending it back to Sig. You can read up on why they came out with the RS version that addresses the problem. Long story short, Sig has outstanding customer service. They upgraded the entire trigger mechanism to the RS and replaced a dead night sight. Problem solved and it's really a decent little shooter at least out to 10 or 12 yards at least (never shot further out than 12 yards). It fit my pockets pretty well. It always went bang when I pulled the trigger after the fix. I thought enough of it to trade it to my dad who really did not like the S&W Bodyguard 380 that he had been carrying. I wouldn't want my 75 year old dad to not have a reliable weapon to carry.
    1 point
  39. Here, this oughtta work for most everyone (at least on actual computer): http://www.macmcdougald.com/misc/Squirrel target-1.pdf click to open in whatever your browser uses, print or save from there or on puter, can also right click, "save link as" to save directly - OS
    1 point
  40. That Marlin is a real Gem. Anything that's tapered (unlike todays Henry's) octagon with crescent steel butt & a breach loader instantly rises to the top of the drool list! Weird how that is..... I used to work for George Numrich at Auto Ordnance which was across the parking lot from what is Thegunpartscorp of today. you should have seen what was called the "break down room". 8 foot high racks filled with handguns of all sorts in every kind of disrepair and stacks upon stacks of rifles every where. The only time George would put someone to work salvaging parts in there for the parts bins is when the orders slowed down. They all ways had parts pickers walking off with antique & current goodies out of there in their lunch bags. I see you like 99's, I was at a Gander mountain yesterday and they had a basic 99E in 300 Sav their for sale. Nice shape but nothing special with colored hard wood & press checkering. Burned my hands on the price tag of $1049 !!! What the hell are they thinking? Years ago I restored a 1899 303 TD for a friend of mine. It was spray painted to stop some bad pitting going on and the stock was cracked nearly in 2. A real basket case. I put new wood on it with a crescent butt & complete reblue. Heres how it came out.... Jimmy was in shock when I handed it back to him. He likes shinny stuff.....
    1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
  43. Definitely a replica, made in Japan. They make some pretty good copies, non-working of course. This one looks to be a model, not airsoft, and even has the same sn. http://page14.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/s512972459#enlargeimg
    1 point
  44. Not a very good pic, but here is my Model 30. Serial number puts it around 1967 I think. Shot it today with some handloads(98gr swc, Win 231). Shot good and to point of aim at 15 yards. Opened it up and it was nice and clean, but had not seen a drop of oil in a long time. Running smooth as a Singer now.
    1 point
  45. Caught a huge male this morning. Probably one of the biggest and most aggressive coyote I've come across. Most try to get away but he came at me. The pic is him next to the average female I caught the other night. He makes almost two of her.
    1 point
  46. I need a larger safe. I'm still not sure how I feel about it but what's everyone's opinion on http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/cannon-ts5950-75-safe? Its larger than what I need but I would like to buy once this time. I've also looked at the Liberty Fatboy, but I really can't tell much difference in the two especially for the price diffence. What fire rating, temp, should I look for? I feel like 1200 is kinda low but I'm not a specialist.
    1 point
  47. Yeah, they didn't have my flavor. I did manage a box of my favorite .300 BLK hog round and a new St. Croix rod, though. I've got to stop going in there.
    1 point
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