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Dad loves finding cool little tools to give as Christmas presents to my brother and me. The one he found this year will be very helpful. How many times do you need to figure out what size a random bolt or nut is? Usually I take it to the hardware store and start trying it out until I find out what size it is. With this tool I can now figure out out pretty much any odd bolt or nut I have. It has standard and metric and different thread pitches. Pretty simple idea but it will be very useful.

Good evening everyone. What we have here (aside from a failure to communicate) is a S&W mod 36 (S&W .38 Special) made between 1962 and 1966. Round butt original wooden grip. Flat latch, serrated front sight, checkered hammer, grooved trigger, blued finish, 2” pinned barrel. All the goodness. Serial number 415103. You can read more about it on page 242 of the S&W Standard Catalog 4th edition. Only indication of wear is at base of front sight, and a small blemish in the metal on the right side near the screw. Asking $550 but willing to hear reasonable offers.

Excise them demons! In all seriousness he is a great coach, one of the best ever whose accomplishments will live on in the annals of college football history. His name will never be forgotten and will surely be repeated in every football game henceforth until the end of time. I wonder if all the Bama chicks are going to stop wearing Bear Bryant hats and start wearing powder blue blazers. Go Vols!

SOLD

Good afternoon, I am cleaning out my safe and getting rid off some "that's a god price" firearms. This is on is a Thompson Contender Super 14 chambered in 30-30. Looks brand new except for two exceptions. First is a simmons 4x optic that was on the pistol when I purchased it, I think that was an after market add. The second is the only blemish I can see on the pistol and that is a small ding in the wood on the "right" side. I took a picture specifically of the damage so you can see it up close. All original parts, manuals, etc is all in the box, original box. Additionally, the box also has 2 extra barrels chambered in 45 colt (as seen to the left pop the bullet in the picture of the spare) and a 30-06 barrel with attached scope rings! Asking $800.

The duct opening is normal, maybe a bit larger than needed, but all foundation openings are bigger than the trunk lines going through them. You should NOT be seeing daylight through there. It should fit snug against both the wall and the HVAC and should be sealed with silicone. Check that the sides go down into the dirt so there's no way for critters to get in unless they tunnel under the metal shroud. If not, pack some soil up against the bottom and put some gravel over it to help minimize erosion. For the plumbing holes, take a piece of cardboard down there and cut a template for each side. Then transfer the pattern to a piece of plywood. A couple of screws up into the OSB above and a short 1x1 screwed into the joist to support the "inside" edge will do it. Run a bead of silicone or caulk around the edges and call it a day. Easy to remove if you or a plumber ever need access to those fittings in the future. Put some silicone around those copper pipes going through the OSB too.

Military grade, LMFHO, civilian ammo is much more accurate and more effective. FMJ is not in my EDC or SHTF stash for a reason. Most military ammo just needs to be 3 or 4 MOA, whereas target or hunting rounds try and achieve at least 1 MOA, most sub MOA, and they are designed to DRT your target.

Have this in my wishlist, they range from $17 to $45 depending on the set. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098NGLX5W

I should have seen this coming as there was an editorial (it may have been an article or a guest essay) in the NYT several weeks ago that mentioned the frequency that ammo from Lake City has shown up at certain shootings. At the time I just scoffed at the idea that ammo from this manufacturer or that might be targeted, but I missed the implication that LC shouldn't be selling to civilians. Of course there's a really good reason why LC needs to keep it's capacity high, and when the military isn't shooting up the ammo, then it makes perfect sense to divert some to the civilian market. There will be no end to the sideroads that the anti-gun crowd will take to try to undermine our rights.

I have had one for years. They are definitely handy. Amazon is your friend. Obviously you need metric and imperial. Nut & Bolt Thread Checker (Metric) https://a.co/d/8CRH0vm

If you use foam, make sure you wear rubber gloves. That stuff gets on your hands and nothing, but time, will get it off. It also ruins clothes if you get it on them. Know from experience. Just put my jeans and shirt in trash can last week. Took 2 weeks for me to scratch it off my hands.

Smith and Wesson 38 Special Model 10-7. Barely a drag line on the cylinder. Deep, glossy beautiful finish. Just starting to freckle along the backstrap, but the finish is otherwise in excellent condition. Phenomenal trigger. Brand new rosewood grips from Premium Gun Grips to suit my preference for an original style. These replaced the Pachmayr Presentation grip that were installed when I bought the revolver. I'll include that grip as well. $430 firm, trade offers welcome, can add cash if needed. Nothing specific in mind so if you're interested try me. I am in Knoxville and I am willing to travel within reason.

P.S. I would NOT foam at the tub openings. That will make it near impossible to get that plumbing undone if that's ever needed in the future. Basically you're making removable plywood access panels.

Dead Right There (DRT). The military trains to shoot at center mass, which is a large target, think chest. An MOA at 100 yards is roughly a 1" circle, at 300 Yards, its about 3" circle. At 300 Yards, which is about the farthest you want to engage normally, a 3 MOA is about a 9" circle, so well within the chest of your target. So it's not as bad as it sounds, but many soldiers are not crack shots, so that can expand that circle much more, but any hit is a good hit.

I agree, cool tool! I found a set in a case, instead of on a cable, of SAE and Metric for $40 shipped on eBay. (From China, but what the heck.) I ordered a set for my toolbox, thanks for the tip!

B me too. I retired from the USAF after 20 years as. Military cop, then finished my college and started another career in State government, working in an office, helping veterans Eventually moved up from that role, but stayed in the dept, and just retired again after a 26 year career. Don’t plan on working anymore if we can adjust our lifestyle to our current incomes, she still works as she is much younger than me.

For what it’s worth. The difference in lowers is very VERY minimal. Cheap out on the lower receiver, put good quality parts in it, and spend decent money on an upper. That’s where the magic happens! My favorite “budget” build that is reliable, durable, and go to war-able is an Aero lower and a complete BCM upper. Lower receiver don’t really matter much. PSA has them at times for 40.00.

I bought a $300 Yeswelder on Amazon. It's MIG or Flux-core, 220V only. No, it sure isn't a Lincoln, but for a guy like me who occasionally welds a project it seemed like the ticket. But be aware that you're going to pay $300 for a bottle of gas, too. And if you want to weld aluminum then you'll need another bottle of gas. And you'll need a cart, too. But that's true of any welder you buy. Edit: I almost forgot that I had to run a new 50A service as well. $7.80 a foot for the wire. So even the cheap welders aren't cheap.

@ironsniper1 feel free t shoot me a PM. I’m in your area and I have a mobile welding business. Unfortunately TIG is what I do the least of…mainly stick on heavy equipment repairs and mig on most fabrication projects. Some SS TIG, but only a couple times a year. I would brace yourself for spending a minimum of a couple grand on a decent TIG machine. Miller has a couple small units that mig, stick, and TIG but you’ll be a few grand in once you set it up to all three processes. But feel free to reach out and I’ll give you whatever help/advice that I can.

Then 45380 is probably just an assembly number. Especially if it is from the crane.

Just FYI to everyone here, I went into Opry Mills mall the other day and spotted gunbuster signs at the exit from Bass Pro into the mall itself. I have no idea how long they've been up since I go there once in a great while, but I don't remember them being there the last time I was there. Personally I don't think I would go to Opry Mills without a weapon of some sort, but you make your own decisions. Just providing some info.

closed

Military is limited to FMJ ammo by the rules of war. Which makes sense in a combat zone. Kill an enemy soldier and you take him out of the fight. Wound an enemy soldier and you then need at least one, probably two men to care for and evacuate him. Thereby taking up to three men out of the fight. Civilian ammo is designed to do as much damage as possible with a single round to achieve a one shot stop or a clean kill on a game animal. Lots of people buy surplus military ammo because its generally pretty cheap compared to commercial ammo and many don't know the difference. So they use it for self defense or in some cases, crimes. Once again, the antis have no idea what they're talking about.

I have always had a problem seeing those gun buster signs. It's like they just fade into the background. I finally went and got my KY permit. They don't have that stupid law here. You can walk right past a sign here. All they can do is try to get you on trespassing.

Sloppy carpentry... sadly typical but not as bad as I'd envisioned. I'd fix it just like @monkeylizard suggests. The expanding foam has been untouched by critters and held up fine at my house for 15 years. Get the low expanding version for masonry and apply minimally. Great Stuff will crack concrete blocks if you go nuts with it.

Like new with mags and pistol pouch. Custom battleworn finish by WC. Come with full bag and mags.

Above 43,000, below 44,000

The military operates by a very different set of requirements and limitations for the ammo they utilize. What is appropriate for a .mil context generally doesn’t fit the needs of the civilian shooter, and the opposite holds true as well.

It’s their own ammo. Mark1ammo… currently 23 cents per round with a coupon. I ordered aome

@-boatman-Make sure you don't also suffer in silence. if it's unbearable, bring it up to your doc just to be on the safe side. I haven't had it done myself, but I know a few people who did and it was a major improvement once they got over the hump. Good luck to ya buddy.

THANK YOU!

SIG SAUER Bravo3 3x24 mm 0.5 MOA Lightweight Durable Waterproof Fogproof Red Dot Sight for Rifle I never mounted the optic, I purchased it from another TGO member over a year ago. For sale only, no trades. I am in Lebanon area. $180 obo. $180.00 obo

Wow how is this still here,quality pistol at bargain price. Tercel is a great seller with quality arms. Somebody please buy this before I do.

That's hysterical! However, before I go posting I have to figure out how much the thing is worth. I took a gamble on what I paid for it. The book value ranges from 3,000-500 depending on condition so I will need to look and see how it compares to others that have sold and what they went for.

Thanks to everyone for the encouragement. Yesterday was the day after and I think I got discouraged because it was so bad. I'm seeing a slight improvement in a few things this morning and that's helping my mental state about it. I think as long as I'm seeing improvement that will keep me going. If I could get up the nerve to take a shower I think that would help also.

Glock55 post above, is exactly what happened with me, except for the first week we found out he pain meds were making me very sick. Had the DR. to change and experienced about what Glock55 did with my recovery. First 2 weeks was really bad for me, but third week I was off to the races. Only took pain meds 30 minutes before Physical Therapy and at night for three weeks, then only for P T 30 min before leaving to go to P T. I was careful with the meds also. Later, most will say it was well worth it.

Isn't that the truth! I worked for the Navy in Bremerton, WA, and had the opportunity to see a lot of exceptional welders working on nuclear power plants. Those welds were incredible.... and thoroughly tested!

Went from military to industrial maintenance. Went to a TCAT for training, military paid for it (benefits). After years I was making good money doing something I liked. Now just retired.

Just don't kill Carl's dog....

Sleeping was the most difficult thing for me, my therapist said when I could flatten out the knee the pain at night would cease, it did.

From my experience (not knee surgery yet), the doctor fixes you, but the therapist heals you.

Or a decent, inexpensive truck gun.

Had mine done a couple of years ago. I hope they gave you an ice water machine that circulates it around the knee, life saver. was on mild oxy, 10mg & kept in front of the pain. Sorry you're in so much pain, good luck & prayers for your recovery.

TCAT holds a standard set by the state to maintain accreditation and funding. You need to be in attendance for all of the hours the program requires. You can’t pop in and learn at your own leisure, the whole goal of TCAT is to get people “ready for the workforce”. It doesn’t matter if you’re older and have employment, you can miss maybe 6 full days of class before you aren’t eligible to proceed in the program. That being said, they will work with your schedule. You could potentially do part-time and show up for 3.5 hours a day. As said above some place will do night classes. Also for the first month or so you’ll be doing book learning which is no doubt invaluable in making it a career but will be more than you need to just be competent welding things you need to fix (mufflers, fence posts, targets, etc). You’ll learn print reading and all the different type of welds and how to join and bond different ferrous metals. I’ve known a few people that have gone through the welding program and it was great for them. TCAT is definitely career focused though and not hobby based. In theory if you wanted to blow through all the book work on your own time and you were dedicated you could get it out of the way and then just do tests for a couple days. You could do a tour and talk with the shop teacher and ask if this is possible and then just see if he will teach you and let you practice flat/vertical/overhead stick and do your own thing rather than adhere to the program. As someone above said do a couple of classes at the forge. MIG certainly can’t be mastered and you won’t be stacking dimes in an evening but if you have decent hand eye and lots of patience you’ll be able to learn the basics and hopefully get what you need to fix your own projects. Mig is far easier, to be proficient in stick it will take a long time. The last time I stick welded it took quite a few warmups before I wasnt completely disgusted with myself. I still wasn’t thrilled with my weld but it stuck. Welding is very much a use it or lose it sort of skill in my opinion and I consider myself decently coordinated. You can also just get an Amazon welder and just mess around. They’re not designed for commercial use but have used my buddies in his driveway and worked fine for small projects. I’d find one with a warranty and beat the bag out of it after going to the forge a couple times. https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Welding-Inverter-Portable-Detachable/dp/B0B2VQSHLS/ref=asc_df_B0B2VQSHLS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=642123667882&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10847099940282451529&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013122&hvtargid=pla-2143002847432&psc=1&mcid=95d878e779be35bd9ddf97b8ffd398c4 ^JR commented on the 110V welders and seems to know what he’s talking about while I was typing

Community college is how I learned to stick weld, Mig is 100x easier, if you plan on buying a mig welder for home use, buy it, practice and watch YT videos for tips, you'll do fine. tip 1: don't buy a 110v welder from HF or Northern, don't care if it's flux core or gas, there garbage and won't weld for $hit!

Our government: We must arm the Ukranian's! We must arm the Israeli's! We must arm the DACA people! We must disarm the American populace!

https://dnyuz.com/2024/01/02/lapierre-longtime-n-r-a-leader-faces-trial-that-could-end-his-reign/ This one is kinda tough for me. I've long thought that it's way past time for Wayne LaPierra to go from the NRA, but on the other hand, having government trying so hard to hurt a gun-rights organization scares me.

I'm guessing you're talking about flashlights? I'm quite fond of Streamlight myself.

I haven't seen .20/round 9mm that I would put in my gun. A friend told me that Academy had Blazer brass for .24 each yesterday. That is about as good as I've seen. I've been through these cycles several times now. Components are cheap>people get complacent and say reloading isn't worthwhile>Democrats win/covid hits etc>people freak out>ammo disappears>I handload for .10/round>people want to get into reloading. Back in 2018 or 2019 when primers were $22/1k, people on this site were telling me reloading isn't worthwhile. The same people were scrounging for ammo in 2020/2021 and probably standing in line at Academy every Thursday morning. I can still load pistol ammo for less than half what it costs if I use components I bought when they told me I was wasting time and money. With components bought today, it's still worthwhile. If nothing else, it's there when the next run starts and I don't have to hunt up and down hoping to find some.